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About pjw123

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  1. E10 is the last resort. E5 has issues & present in most fuels, even Shell V Power. E10/5 goes off in no time. Ethanol very easy to remove completely, ( see You tube). Various alternatives here, i.e Aspen, classic fuel suppliers, Avgas (requires 50:50 cutting with normal fuel), etc, etc.
  2. pjw123

    2014 evo 250 4 t

    I've had a few 300 4t s. Always dropped to a 9 on the front & left the rear as standard (43 ??). Lots more manageable in bottom, & 2nd can be used more frequently. Worth a try, as cheap to do. Also, less likely for an infamous 4 stroke cough, as usually there are a few more revs on .
  3. Ethanol easily removed from petrol. Check it out on You Tube
  4. Ethanol (E5) easy to remove from pump fuel. You tube or Google shows you how to do it. Very simple to do.
  5. Can't go wrong with a 315 . Its almost a classic. If you get a nice one, then you should get back what you paid for it. It will do all you want of it at beginner level. Got a bit of a cult following & Honda build quality. For more modern stuff around £2k. Beta a good bet, then GG 2nd. Don't discount an early Montesa 4rt, as they are high quality bikes & a pleasure to ride. They can be smartened up nicely, as plastics, etc, are very affordable Expect to pay a bit more for one of these though. Condition depends entirely on previous owners. Avoid leftfield makes, as they went by the wayside for good reason & you could be needing spares which are no longer available.
  6. pjw123

    Vertigo chain

    Regina fine, as long as you look after it. Same for majority of chains. Rust is purely a sign of neglect. Do this : Buy a cheap deep fat fryer (c/w with basket), & a gallon of chainsaw oil. (Non fling, inexpensive, stays on chain really well ). Put a few inches in fryer. Remove chain after every trial, especially in winter. : Remove horseshoe clip & put it straight back on end of the chain in the correct orientation before you remove the chain. That way, you know the chain can go back on in the same direction as it came off. Remove crud with Wire brush, then clean in "parts cleaner" !!! with a stiff brush. If you must use unleaded, then be mindful of Benzene carcinogen hazard & wear correct gloves, etc. Fire up your newly acquired chain maintenance unit (fryer) on a lowish setting & place chain in basket. Allow chain to soak / impregnate rollers in hot oil for a few minutes. Turn out on to some old newspaper. Allow to cool, wipe it off, & refit. As with all the best workshops, worth having a fire extinguisher in the vicinity & small children out of the way. I know its a bit OCD, but it has to be done.
  7. It could be the central rubber sealing strip leaking, losing air & causing tyre to come off rim ?? . Its happened to me. Blow up tyre hard & use soapy water & paintbrush to check for leaks through the spoke holes. Other option is to immerse wheel in a big enough container full of water like you do when checking a tube. If rubber seal shot, it will require replacing. Apico do them. Remove old one & thoroughly remove old sealant (usually Silicon). Ensure spokes all tight & apply a blob of new silicon over each spoke head to seal. Allow to go off. Trial fit new seal ring. (practice) Then run 2 beads of silicon around rim inner well . Now fit rubber seal, previous practice session should have paid off. Finally run another 2 beads of silicon around edge of seal ring. I use Geocell black silicon from Screwfix. Don't use automotive Sikaflex or Tiger seal, as its very difficult to remove & you might need to rebuild your wheel . Works for me.
  8. Well known problem. It's because the shaft is worn at the seal contact point.. A new seal alone often wont fix it. G-G metal not very high grade, so it wears the shaft metal. You can usually feel the wear with your finger nail. You have to replace shaft too. G-G sell a it as a water pump overhaul kit. You won't have done your new seal much good, so best fit another one when you replace the shaft. Grease it with marine waterpump grease while you are at it.
  9. Fibreglass tanks OK if you look after them. 1. Clean out tank / seal properly. 2. Remove ethanol (E5- 5%) from petrol. Easy- see You Tube. 3. Empty tank & leave cap off when not using bike. Works for me.
  10. pjw123

    Beta 300 4rt

    Jim makes a trick rear mudflap arrangement in a red nitrile rubber type material which provides a really good outer seal down the rear LHS of the airbox & mudguard. It really does keep the majority of the mud out. Kit also comes with a nice knurled airbox drain cap. However if very much doubt if you will need it in California. Late model alloy GG- side stand went on with a bit of fettling. Worked & looked much better than standard.
  11. pjw123

    Beta 300 4rt

    I've has a couple, including a Factory. 250 a bit underpowered, 300 best buy, but a tad high geared for some, so worth trying a 9t on the front. Better grip in wet than 4RT IMHO. Exhaust needs to be well sealed & there is a bit of a hot spot near your leg. Factory model much smoother with a standard tailpipe. Airbox works well, much better than other popular 4 stroke. Get hold of a Jim Austermuhle airbox kit & it will be spot on. Side stand improved by fitting a Gas Gas one. Usual Beta good quality parts. Lots shared with the ever popular 2 stroke. Fabulous cross country tool & a great clubman bike. As with any used trials bike, it has to have been well looked after.
  12. Had a fair bit of work done & now selling it on !!!. There could be a story there. 300 a bit wild for a beginner. Keep looking.
  13. yep, had yokes powder coated & used same technique for painting too. Sections of drinks cans cut up with scissors, Roll cut section up a bit & they expand like springs & stay in place, Fits all sizes. Can be used for bolt holes too. Lots of sharp edges though. Original coating usually goes in order to permit good base for powder.
  14. Removing ethanol from E5 fuel is quite easy. Worth a try if only as a simple chemistry experiment. Get hold of a large glass jar/ demi john, Kilner ,etc. Put about 2" of water in it with a bit of dye (from a pen will do). Mark the level on the outside. Pour in your fuel, as much as you want ,but leave bit of space to allow good agitation. Ensure top is secure & give contents a thorough shake for a minute or two. Leave to stand for a few hours / overnight. Check water/ fuel interface (the dye makes it easier to see). & you will find it has risen a cm or 2 above your marked line from the previous day. The ethanol has an affinity for water & has co mingled. Clean ethanol free fuel can now be siphoned off. A bit of a faff & best done with health & safety in mind. ( Benzene : google it). A few You tube threads out there & you can buy kits from the USA , as the light aircraft boys do it.
  15. Great on rocks, & streams, dire in mud & slippy going. Need to keep it rolling. Sound lovely & brings a smile to your face. Peerless build quality, airbox & side stand not the best . Its heavy old bus dating back to 2005.
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