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  1. pjw123

    240 Port Timing

    Not an easy one to answer, as most folks left the motor well alone. You might want to try Bill Pye. The 212 Motor is one of the best twinshock trials motors ever. The whole bike was a game changer I don't recall anyone ever needing to modify the barrel / piston. Power delivery was instant, a forerunner of modern engines & riding styles. It was considered a bit lively back in the day for the old guard, who used to fit a power killing silencer to soften the power. Lots of 240's fitted with 245 motors these days
  2. Ossa brakes defy comment . Villiers services for a reline. Good value & excellent service
  3. Both 240 & 300 Swingarms & frames are completely different. Having said that, the alloy swingarms from later models can be made to fit, but not a job for beginners, as a fair amount of engineering required, i.e dural parts to machine on lathe, & lots of alloy welding required. Got a 240 with a 245 alloy swingarm. Have also seen a 300 with a 245 swingarm fitted. 240 / 300 foot peg lowering / relocation is a good mod. 240 fork angle mod also worth doing, as is beefing up headstock area plating, as its prone to flexing. 300 fork angle is pretty good as standard.
  4. The green seals are SKF. Make sure you remove & replace with proper tools
  5. 315/ 4RT needle roller bearings are the same. Needle bearings are HK 1512 , & can be bought in bulk online. (Don't buy cheap & go for quality brands i.e SKF or Koyo ). Outer seals are B106. Can easily be replaced if you have a good vice & a decent full diameter socket set. If you want them to last a while, pack with White Marine grease. (Online & inexpensive)
  6. Hello there, I'm from deepest North Yorkshire, so we are fairly well set up for all trials related stuff. I once had a problem trying to get the special clutch cover o ring seal to sit right & seal properly. I'd had the cover powder coated, which might have been a factor. So I had to try one of those well known Saturday night fixes. (Most of our trials start on a Sunday morning at 10:30, so quite a few folks are busy on Saturday nights)) 1. Thoroughly clean & degrease outer cover O ring groove & case face. 2. I used a small black silicon Instant gasket RTV tube dispenser (Wynns or similar, available from car parts shops) 3. Have a practice go at running a small bead on a test piece. 4, Work out the best start / stop point to ensure optimum continuity, then run a very small bead of sealant into the groove around the entire circumference. (Ensure continuity & it must look "right"). If you have to start using your fingers, you are heading towards a "fail". 5. Allow to cure. You are essentially creating a new, slightly larger compressible O ring out of the RTV (don fit it yet) 6. Once cured, re fit cover, oil her up & away you go.
  7. HRC build quality top drawer & the 315 is generally perceived as a desirable, emerging classic. Loads of folks spend their hard earned sprucing them up. Later models command higher prices, but even the old ones do well if in good order & have been updated. A good one will last forever. As with most off roaders, there are hounds out there, largely due to owners lack of maintenance skills. Many parts shared with the 4RT, & clutch plates same as CR 250. Plenty of fancy front pipes out there. Tailpipes too, but not middle box, which is no biggie. Most bearings off the shelf of your local bearing shop. Clutch cover O ring seal is a PITA. Just use RTV instead Early Dellorto's troublesome, but a nice PWK 28 sorts out that problem, Pistons used to be hard to find, but S3 now doing them. Plastics, & all manner of "dee cal" kits out there. 4RT items can be made to fit. Side stands rubbish, same as 4RT. Air boxes not brilliant either.
  8. Motor is a strong simple unit & easy to overhaul Coked up middle box often overlooked & can hamper performance Can be opened up, cleaned / repacked.(welding job). Similar story with tailpipe. As with most old bikes, carb often worn out. Worth experimenting with something newer. Keihin PWK 28 or OKO. Porting job known to have good results. (but only if carried out by an expert on TY's) Footpegs way too high. Mounting plates can be carefully removed & rewelded lower down. Generator cover & clutch cover are Magnesium & can suffer from corrosion. (UK conditions) Rims corroding/delaminating internally due to constant moisture is a common problem with Japanese rims.
  9. I think engine number is down near the front drive sprocket .
  10. Try Crooks Suzuki. Long time Suzuki Dealers. Nigel Birkett worth a call too
  11. pjw123

    Gas Bubbling Beta

    my 2018 300 2t has (had) a vent line. CSP cap fitted & vent line removed plugged. Have ridden in quite few events with no issues.
  12. pjw123

    Gas Bubbling Beta

    EVO filler caps / vents do not have a good reputation. Invest in a CSP one . Job done.
  13. Cut tiller still mounts off, dress & polish original area, & then re weld posts to a modern (ish) location by a competent alloy welder. Brings bars forward. A bit better riding position. Other mods to think about are : Fork angle remains a bit "chopper" style, so that would need to be tightened up & is easily achievable by a competent fabricator. Drop the pegs while you have the TIG set out, & the swingarm pivot point can be also brought closer to the output sprocket to improve grip / chain run. (Swingarm needs lengthening a bit). All well tried mods & out there in forum land.
  14. If you discount the 200, then 250 EVO is very likely the next best option. Far more around, as it must be one of the top sellers. You can always drop a tooth at the front if you find it a bit lively. Buy the best example you can. Prices have firmed up during recent events. Some opportunistic pricing by some vendors, & bargains are a bit thin on the ground. Beta 4t also probably worth a look for beginners, as soft power, especially the rarer 250
  15. The Beta EVO was light years ahead of the rest. The design was / is class leading, but has become the annual victim of worthwhile minor tweaks & the usual sticker/ "decal" job. It's sales speaks for itself. However, the rest have now caught up a bit, & use nice shiny Techy things to attract the punters, quite a lot of which doesn't always work. Here's a few easy upgrades that would improve an already very good bike for the better. (Just my opinion). 1. Fit a proper alloy front mudguard stay. BOSI anyone ? 2. Replace the stupid petrol filler cap. CSP anyone ? 3. Rear mudguard re design. One piece set up costly to replace. Make it a 2 piece item. 4. Swingarm / sidestand set up not the best. A new look set up would freshen the model up considerably & a comparatively straightforward bolt on. (Gas Gas use it to good effect !!) 5. A decent set of footpegs as standard. 6. Frame protectors to be a standard fit. Beta do quite nice ones on their Enduro models, so why not on their trlals models . OEM Stickers don't do much a job as frame protectors, & aftermarket covers look a bit "aftermarket". 7. Stickers are an integral part of the annual revamp. Always rather a lot of them, which soon start to look tired. Sometimes less is more. I suppose the Tech Forks & Ohlins / Reiger shock upgrade would be starting to push the boundaries a little. There you have it. That's the 2025 model sorted. FWIW I 've owned at least 10 Betas in various guises. I know how to look after them. I have never once been let down. Ever.
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