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Everything posted by pjw123

  1. Fibreglass tanks OK if you look after them. 1. Clean out tank / seal properly. 2. Remove ethanol (E5- 5%) from petrol. Easy- see You Tube. 3. Empty tank & leave cap off when not using bike. Works for me.
  2. pjw123

    Beta 300 4rt

    Jim makes a trick rear mudflap arrangement in a red nitrile rubber type material which provides a really good outer seal down the rear LHS of the airbox & mudguard. It really does keep the majority of the mud out. Kit also comes with a nice knurled airbox drain cap. However if very much doubt if you will need it in California. Late model alloy GG- side stand went on with a bit of fettling. Worked & looked much better than standard.
  3. pjw123

    Beta 300 4rt

    I've has a couple, including a Factory. 250 a bit underpowered, 300 best buy, but a tad high geared for some, so worth trying a 9t on the front. Better grip in wet than 4RT IMHO. Exhaust needs to be well sealed & there is a bit of a hot spot near your leg. Factory model much smoother with a standard tailpipe. Airbox works well, much better than other popular 4 stroke. Get hold of a Jim Austermuhle airbox kit & it will be spot on. Side stand improved by fitting a Gas Gas one. Usual Beta good quality parts. Lots shared with the ever popular 2 stroke. Fabulous cross country tool & a great clubman bike. As with any used trials bike, it has to have been well looked after.
  4. Had a fair bit of work done & now selling it on !!!. There could be a story there. 300 a bit wild for a beginner. Keep looking.
  5. yep, had yokes powder coated & used same technique for painting too. Sections of drinks cans cut up with scissors, Roll cut section up a bit & they expand like springs & stay in place, Fits all sizes. Can be used for bolt holes too. Lots of sharp edges though. Original coating usually goes in order to permit good base for powder.
  6. Removing ethanol from E5 fuel is quite easy. Worth a try if only as a simple chemistry experiment. Get hold of a large glass jar/ demi john, Kilner ,etc. Put about 2" of water in it with a bit of dye (from a pen will do). Mark the level on the outside. Pour in your fuel, as much as you want ,but leave bit of space to allow good agitation. Ensure top is secure & give contents a thorough shake for a minute or two. Leave to stand for a few hours / overnight. Check water/ fuel interface (the dye makes it easier to see). & you will find it has risen a cm or 2 above your marked line from the previous day. The ethanol has an affinity for water & has co mingled. Clean ethanol free fuel can now be siphoned off. A bit of a faff & best done with health & safety in mind. ( Benzene : google it). A few You tube threads out there & you can buy kits from the USA , as the light aircraft boys do it.
  7. Great on rocks, & streams, dire in mud & slippy going. Need to keep it rolling. Sound lovely & brings a smile to your face. Peerless build quality, airbox & side stand not the best . Its heavy old bus dating back to 2005.
  8. 2K base is isocyanate ( found in superglue). Having said that. Bike parts can be painted with 2K outside on a nice day wearing a decent face mask ( 3M, Sundstrom, etc) and you’ll be fine . You are only using the gun for a few minutes. Been doing it for years. (Use speedy hardener & thinner, do it where overspray can't land on other items, i.e your wifes car, then take item inside when done to harden off away from the breeze & flying particles). Some people use RAL 3020 powder coat, but this is a bit lairy. BTW, Romax UK in Stockton on Tees (01642 619196) can supply correct shade of Fantic red powder coat, which is a bit of a deeper colour than RAL 3020.
  9. pjw123

    Link cover

    got one on a 315 Mont. Hard plastic flat "T" section about 5mm thick attached using rear bashplate mounting bolts, with the bottom of the "T" covering linkage. Takes the hit on rocks / steps. Only ever seen it on this one bike & its a good idea. Very neat & unobtrusive. Will try to dig out a few pics.
  10. Bill Pye can get you a 36 hole Morad
  11. Had a MAR back in the day & bought one recently for old times sake. Brakes defy comment !!!. Rear brake especially bad. Motoplat ignition may give you problems. Amal carb very old school. Steers OK, pegs a tad high. Dished rear sprocket very rare, Most folks have gone for flat one / spacer. Later pre Gripper models had a longer more modern style front pipe & bigger silencer, which seemed to make motor a bit smoother. Ethanol (E5) fuel is a major headache, but quite easy to remove. (see You Tube). You don't need any fancy equipment. GRP tanks go to mush, & old rubber O rings swell terribly when contacted with ethanol. If you are successful in reclaiming tank, empty out fuel after very ride & let vapours flash off with cap removed. You should be OK. (Works for me) . Ethanol additives now commonplace, & we (UK) reportedly going up to E10 (10% instead of 5%).
  12. pjw123

    Suede boots!

    Agree : Get some sealskinz of t'interweb. NATO ones cheapest. Water proofing a complete waste of time for the most part, & a proper carry on, especially if out every week in the wet. I've got some A Stars & Diadora "brown" boots. None of them will ever be waterproof, but put a bit of wax around sole stitches & leave the uppers. Easy to power wash off & they air dry quicker if not plastered with clarty wax. They don't fall apart & don't need leather feeding, as you will have knocked holes in them long before they properly wear out.(Well they do up here anyway).Has worked for me since I discarded the NCB wellies for a pair of RGs or something like that around 1979 (I think). n.b waterproofing irrelevance continues, as the latest style boots barely cover your ankles, so the water will be over the tops in no time anyway ?
  13. A common problem with older models . Water pump seal / shaft very likely worn. Shaft material poor quality. You should be able to see the wear point on the shaft & feel it with your fingernail. ***Just replacing seal won't fix it.*** You can buy a complete water pump overhaul kit .. Also worth checking out cooling fan / T'stat working OK while you have system drained, as this can be another problem child.
  14. Straight through tube gives bike a little bit more zip. Just as quiet if packed correctly. Got my last one off Mark at H&D, very reasonably priced. Cheap hop up mod. Mitani do a longer version of pipe, along with epic price tag. Meant to be a Fuji works mod or something like that.
  15. TFR is pretty strong stuff, not for your pride & joy IMHO. The drill is : Plug up the holes in exhaust/ airbox. Power wash bike, to get the worst off. (don't go daft , or you'll have no stickers left on it, Spray on proper bike cleaner, ( several types around), & use a paint brush to work it into the nooks & crannies & where the chain has thrown up oily deposits,. Break out the bucket of hot water / washing up liquid & give it a good clean using soft car brush & a babys bottle cleaning brush to get into the awkward bits. (You can get purpose made bike cleaning brushes too.) Don't forget to lie bike on its side for a quick clean underneath, you'll be amazed what you've missed. Final rinse with power washer. Blow all water off with air blower. (Your DIY do it all Vac cleaner can usually be reversed to blow by swapping the hose to the vent port.) Final spray with water displacing fluid, duck oil, etc. Airbox / filter/ chain/ carb/ brakes / maint still to be done. Here's another tip. : Wheel bearings don't last 5 minutes if you are in the water every week, (well, in the UK they don't). They are supposed to be sealed & greased, but in reality they don't have much in them. So...... While bearings are still quite new, pick off the outer bearing seal with a stanley knife blade. Easy to to. Pack bearings properly with some marine/ waterproof grease. Push seal back on. Bearings now have a fighting chance. Dried out, fully Gingered up rumblers only fit for the bin though.
  16. Take tank down to your local pro auto paint supplier & he will match it perfectly using colour chips. Underside might not be faded. He should be able to mix you up 1/4 or 1/2 litre of 2K base coat, which can then be sprayed & clear coated with 2k clear lacquer. 2K Clear coat most important, as it provides protection from fuel spills. (same as your car). Rattle can finish : cheaper, finish questionable & won't last very long. NB, seal tank internall & only have fuel in it while you are riding it. Otherwise drain completely & vent tank when bike not being used. If you don't do this, you are risking tank going to mush with E5 ethanol fuel. (soon to be E 10 I am hearing , that's 10% not 5% ethanol)
  17. pjw123


    Rickmans mostly "scramblers", No trials models to the best of my knowledge. Metisse most common, usually fitted with big British twin or single engines. "Petite" was smaller version, using Montesa, Zundapp Husqvarna, & other engines. Spares & things reasonably well catered for in Blighty by a few differing outfits.
  18. Had a few Beta 4t's .The most important cover you will need is something for the front part of the tailpipe, as it runs far hotter than a 2 stroke. This is guaranteed to burn a hole through your riding pants when they make contact, as its right in the way & just bare exhaust metal. . I struggled a bit to find something suitable & ended up making one out of some carbon fibre sheet. Frame protectors where your legs rub is the other important area. Colour matched ones are available which look right on the bike. Fork covers are quite handy, but cheap ones don't last very long. Never really needed any other covers.
  19. pjw123

    Unleaded Fuel

    Avgas is a good idea, best cut it 50/50 with V power or similar. You can remove ethanol from petrol, the American light aircraft crowd do it. Not hard to do, a bit of a faff. Google it. Old skool O rings will swell with ethanol contact, I 've had then completely seal off a pet cock. Alloy tanks should fine with ethanol. Fibreglass tanks can be sealed, but the drill (for me ) is : use a good tank sealant. Drain after every use & leave cap off. Fill tank AT the meeting. Drain out as soon as you get home. Buy a mini workshop fuel dispenser to allow engine to be run in the workshop without resorting to filling tank. V Power or BP cut 50:0 with Avgas. Castrol lead replacement additive if running an old 4 stroke. (keeps valves/ guide in good order) a shot of Castor based race oil if running an old 4 stroke (upper cylinder lubricant)
  20. pjw123


    Get a Bosi brace/ mudguard. Standard Beta could be better.
  21. pjw123

    300 SS

    Owned quite a few Betas, all shapes & sizes. Been riding UK Yorkshire/NE trials since the 70's & haven't really stopped. 250 wins it every time. So easy to ride. A 300 can have you by the third lap, even a Super Smooth. Many tales of buyers going for a 300, then spending a tidy sum calming it all down. 200 also a very capable bike for the average clubman, but quite rare Most modern bikes can seem a touch high geared for the less able, so down a tooth at the front is a quick way of steadying things up. IMHO, 250 , you can't go wrong. Plenty out there.
  22. pjw123

    trs v sherco v beta

    Beta by far the most numerous bike out there. I've owned several & can't fault them. Currently using a TRS 250 Raga & its a great bike. Build quality top notch & no need to go out buying the usual bling, as it comes standard. Not too clued up on Sherco, but there's no bad bikes out there. If the bike is being trialled every week, with the odd practice session thrown in, then it has to be looked after properly. Preventative maintenance is a far better option than breakdown maintenance. However............. If you are buying secondhand be very careful, as its all down to the previous owners engineering aptitude(or lack of it), & a willingness to spend money keeping the bike in good order.
  23. H&D are a good source of parts & advice. IN Motion also worth a try. 315's usually good to work on due to Honda QC / build quality.
  24. Jotagas, more recently known as J Gas. Not sure if still on the go. Very tough gig for trials bike makers these days. Jordi T left & is now mr TRRS
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