pjw123

Romax UK (01642 619196) have done a couple of sets for me. Top quality service & finish. Colour match excellent & they cater for bike stuff all of the time. You might want to do the cutaway mod on the rear rim first. Just like works bikes. Bit time consuming, but doesn't cost anything other than time & patience.

Speak to the guys at Splat shop. They'll tell you exactly what set up you require. 315 standard Carburation always had room for improvement.

Nothing wrong with basic petrol !!!!. I beg to differ. Just ask the legions of folks who run GRP tanks on their classics.( Been there. Modern ethanol based petrol makes them go soft. Old school O rings prone to swelling. I 've even had a fuel tap pack in due to swollen O rings. I seal my GRP tanks & empty them after every meeting, with the top off, so any residue can flash off. Works for me. "It's all the same, it all comes from the same refinery " I hear someone say. Not necessarily true. Raw petrol goes through a petrol blending process, where various additives are mixed in prior to going off to road/rail.. Guess who goes for the cheapest blending runs. Yep, mr Supermarket Chain. So,,,,,,,,,, Its Shell V power or BP Ultimate. Best of a rapidly deteriorating bunch. The odd splash of Av Gas mixed in from your local private airfield doesnt go wrong on highly strung motors. As you may be aware, old fuel can be used for all sorts of things,i.e cleaning, etc but take care : BENZENE. Google it !!!!!

Can't open link above, but otherwise its all very interesting stuff gents. Could anyone please advise me on a good anodising outfit who can deal with wheel rims ?. I 've had them done by wheel specialists before, but it was very time consuming going through the middle man & I would prefer to deal with Anodising company direct. (N.E closest to home Advice gratefully appreciated.

Water pump case is magnesium & is a guaranteed banker for rot for a bike that age. Last one I bought cost about £90. You might get lucky & be able to repair using Belzona 1111 or similar. Offshore industry uses Belzona regularly to repair pipework on seawater systems. Have you thought about using waterless coolant. Not cheap, but neither are magnesium cases.

There's a brilliant cobbler in Northallerton. (Zetland street I think, just off the high street). He repairs off road boots on a regular basis & has done some brilliant repairs for me & lots of others. Bit of a trek for you, but he can do it while you wait if you give him fair warning.

Gents, Beta mudguards are somewhat "femmer", & expensive to boot. Not a great deal you can do on the breakage front apart from avoiding unplanned dismounts. Some folks have been known to use 6mm black plastic car number plate bolts, or smaller sizes from Electrical suppliers, which are fine for normal use, but sacrificed in a crash & so allow the mudguard to come off without serious damage, & then be re fitted. On the crud front, remember to seal up the hole where the wiring loom went with silicon & purchase an aftermarket mudflap. There is a talented engineer in North Yorks called mr J Austermuhle who has come up with the best one I've seen. Bosi Beta front is a good idea, as it looks to be far more robust & is used with an with alloy mount which also acts as a fork brace, We live in the faint hope that other manufacturers might take a leaf out of the Montesa book & supply a pair of mudguards at a sensible cost . They also sell high wear plastic parts for sensible money, which is amply demonstrated by the fair number of smart old Monts still going strong.

Water int'oil lad. A repeat event post oil change will not bode well. Coolant level ok ???. Greyish deposits sometimes result from alloy parts fretting.

Water int'oil lad

4RT, a gentle stroke required & starts every time, & puts a smile on your face. Beta 4t can be bit of a madam, especially once they are a few years old & tappet clearances aren't what they were. Beta 200 is a brilliant little bike. IMHO.

Sealed bearings can be re greased as they often don't come with much in anyway. Grease condition can be easily checked by carefully picking off the rubber seal the using the point of a Stanley knife blade. Ball Race can then be repacked with your desired product. Seal just pushes back into place when finished. Don't overpack ball race though. Particularly useful for wheel bearings, which don't seem to last five minutes these days. Always buy the best quality bearings you can, as there is a lot of poor quality stuff out there.

Hi, If you are looking for numbers, put me down for a couple. 100% certain they will be a top seller. Something must fit the bill out there also, even if a bit of modifying is required. Surely mr Honda must be aware of 315 popularity. Pity they don't do a vintage parts inventory like Suzuki.

Bill Pye has a good supply of spares & is an acknowledged expert on the marque. Bob Wright also well known. Shedworks also have a good range of items. There's a fair amount of stuff out there. These were really well made bikes, so ownership should be straightforward.

Fantic 200 was a Game changer back in the day. Succeeded by the Fantic 240 which was even better. Apologies for name dropping, but had an ex Rob Edwards 250 Mont & went straight on to an ex Jack Galloway Fantic 200. Wished I still had them. (hindsight such a wonderful thing.) Night & day. Fantic 200/240 are/were Best twinshockers out of the box bar none. Happy days.

well, funny you should mention that !!

All, Boots always leak & invariably result in wet feet. (every week 'oop North). Suggest investing in a pair of "Sealskinz" water proof socks which allow you to go paddling without fear.(£20 ex Nato on T'interweb.) Been powerwashing & air drying indoors for donkeys years. Why is it that a lot of of us tend to hang on to our old boots & are reluctant to chuck 'em out ? Somewhat more concerning, is the current fashion for lower & lower boot height. We'll all be wearing ankle high ones before long. Bring back the NCB wellies I say.

Introduced to Mr Graham Tales. (well done Eddie). Graham spent a good deal of time outlining all aspects of the conversion. A fair measure of experience & patience is required, not to mention access to full workshop facilities. He couldn't have been more helpful, & is a credit to our sport. Many thanks.

Many thanks for advice gents. Have got a couple of leads which hopefully will bear fruit. Much appreciated.

Finally taking the plunge to go down the 2RT/4RT conversion route. Honda engineering & build quality out of the top drawer. Already have donor bikes, & am aware of many similarities. I read about this conversion a couple of years back & it looks like a feasible option. Anyone out there willing to part with a few pointers. ?? as any info greatly appreciated. Bike will be built to a high standard, & hopefully a credit to the marque. (Bike will be red/silver, as this is the only true Montesa colour scheme IMHO). . many thanks,

200 is a superb underrated bike for mr Average. 250 very good. 300 2t will still walk away with you in slow going. 300SS =UK model with slow throttle & flywheel weight. I've had all models including 300 4T Factory . IMHO 250 2t best all round.

I 've had a couple of 300 4T's & found 9/42 to be my preference.(clubman- Yorkshire). Makes 2nd more usable too. Never bothered changing throttle. Have also compared notes with a couple of other 300 riders, who had much the same story. Standard 11/42 gearing is quite high & bike tends to run on a bit in slow rocky going.

Factory & Arrow exhaust pretty similar. Louder & more power than standard, albeit not such a smooth delivery. They all still melt your pants due to the lack of front heat shield. Good for 250's. I used a standard pipe on my '16 300 4T Factory, which calmed it down noticeably. Quieter & smoother, but not to everyone's taste.

RAL 3020 Red is the nearest shade of powder coat you will get. The original Fantic red was a touch darker, so you would have to colour match something original with a vehicle mixing system colour chip at your local vehicle paint factors. Powder coating harder wearing than paint, but difficult to match with original colours.

Take a part with the colour you want down to your local Trade Motor Factor/ Paint Supplier. Ask them to get a match using the paint colour code chips. They may be able to make up a Rattle can, or you might have to get them to mix up a 1/4 or 1/2 litre of car paint, which will have to be sprayed on, & may need hardener, thinner, or 2k lacquer. (not for beginners, even if it looks dead easy on You Tube.). Alternatively, enquire at you local Auto paint shop & see if they will chip it up & blow it over.