pjw123

You live in the right part of the world if you want to ride trials. 250 cc max. Get as good a bike as you can. "Doer uppers ", can cost more than you bargained for. Join a club & find out where your local practice area is. There will always be someone willing to offer advice. Most clubs run summer series, evening & easy trials during the good weather. That's the best time to enter the competition fray. Get an ACU card for £12, or pay £3 more on the day. Entry fees about £15, sometimes a few pounds more if a charity trial. Trials often get a bit harder in winter. If you have built up some confidence at the local practice area, see if you can tag along with someone for your first event. They will show you the ropes, signing on, talk you through the sections , how to read the flags, etc, etc. Your first trial will go so much better if you have an experienced rider to take you through it. First one will be an eye opener, but will give you a buzz & hopefully the enthusiasm to carry on. Try to ride as often as you can. Proper trials make you attempt things you hadn't expected, so you will make better progress in real events. Practice area stuff great, but you need to push your limits. n.b don't ride your bike up & down outside your house unless you live in the middle of nowhere. Be discreet. Keep it out of the way. Wash it off round the back if you can. If possible buy, or get the use of a van. Don't advertise the fact that you have an offroader. This is a sign of the times I'm afraid.

You need to fit it to the swing arm. There should be captive nuts there. Doesn't look like a GG stand though.

They aren't standard EVO Pegs, but they look perfectly OK IMHO. I've been riding over 50 years in UK Mud / rocks & never resorted to sharpening pegs, as they are the first things you whack your leg on when you experience an unplanned get off . Replace MX boots with proper trials ones as MX aren't designed to grip, more to slide your boot round corners. Some people have been known to sharpen pegs, but its a bit old skool dating back to the 60's & 70's. If you do decide to go down the sharpening route, they will draw more blood when you bale out in a hurry.

Check temp circuit by shorting the 2 thermostat wires with engine running. If fan starts, problem may be with T stat. If fan doesn't start, then Regulator box (small black one) might have given up. Often caused by poor earth. Outer plastic sometimes melts which is a good sign its had it. They are about £25 UK to replace. Worth replacing T stat rubber seal & clip at same time as they deteriorate with time & don't like being disturbed. (cheap)

Needle bearings are HK 1512. Same as 315. You can get a box of them from well known internet website for pennies. Try to buy good quality. Outer seals can be gently removed prior to removing bearings, & re used if OK.( I haven got code for these, as have usually managed to save them.) You can easily push out / replace bearings in a workshop vice & using correct diameter I/D & O/D sockets as drive pin. Important thing to do is maintain them regularly. They don't have any grease points. Try to get hold of marine quality grease. If you have to replace bearings, they very likely have not been looked after.

Don't give up on it just yet. 9 tooth (not 10), combined with slow throttle usually calms things down considerably. Clean out the carb. Gassers usually run quite cleanly. Make sure there's no slop with the cable action either, as that doesn't help. Ultmately, you are quite correct, a 250 would have been the sensible option

Standard gearing a tad high, especially for non expert riders. Try 9 tooth on the front, slow throttle tube, & flywheel weight. I felt that a standard 300 wants to roll on a bit , just when you want to steady things up. Cheap mod to do & easy to put back. I know an absolute beginner out on a similar '18 300. Not the preferred norm I know, but he's coping fine. If you want to enter a trial near you. Try to get to one of the NE centre Wednesday night Summer series ones. Butsfield / Bedburn, etc. Advertised on here & perfect for new starts. One on tonight, but its starts in 15 minutes time .

RAL 3020 near enough. Needs to be heat resistant though, so you may want to go for red engine block enamel. Amazon probably a good bet. Reasonably good match, especially if you paint the full component. Most older GG's will have lost a fair bit of paint by now. If you want a perfect match, get original matched using paint chips at your local automotive paint supplier. 2K car paint most hard wearing but not cheap & needs hardener / thinner, then spraying on.

It's clear evidence that it has very likely done a lot of work. 300 Factory is for Expert riders. Earlier models for some reason are OK, but later models in particular seem more prone to wear. (Cost cutting maybe??). Doesn't look that good & will always put buyers off. (If you buy it, you too will one day become the seller !!!..) Seals probably OK. You can get them re coated but not cheap. Worth noting for the future that application bit of light oil externally, lubricates seals & reduces wear rate of coating, Also, coatings on Alloy stanchions used by other makers tend to wear more quickly than coatings on steel stanchions.

DAB ones, like any other ABS ones do break quite easily at the bottom. They are just ABS, & will stop rubbing. They do come in white though, which looks far better than the fake carbon that people seem to love. Cheap to replace. You can easily touch up the casting that seems to get whacked with a bit of white paint.

The gold coating doesn't wear anywhere as quickly on steel stanchions, & looks much higher quality. If you look at any of the alloy stanchions of any maker, they all lose their coatings pretty quickly & look a bit tired once it starts to wear off. BTW, hope you all remember to give the sliders a few drops of light oil around the seals before use. Otherwise they run bone dry & will accelerate coating wear rate.

Keihin PWK 28. Its the future !!!. Best leave fuel injection to the experts . (Honda)

I'm afraid you will have to do a bit of work if you want to replace old school footpegs. Modern footpegs fit a standard mount & for the most part they can be interchanged, but most older bikes are quite different . Modern footpeg Mount brackets can be bought quite reasonably for about £10, but will require welding on. This is usually done while relocating pegs to create a much better riding position. This invariably requires some form of flat plate to bring them down & back , plus a bit of re working of the brake pedal. Very common mod in the twinshock world & easily carried out by a competent fabricator, preferably one who has got previous knowledge. Well worth doing if you are going to ride bike regularly. Maybe not so if you are looking for originality.

Don't go for anything over 250 unless you are a good centre rider. They can catch out mr average. Beta 2t most popular selling bike by a noticeable margin. Lots of good used ones out there. Most 250 2ts are all very capable bikes, & its all about condition. G-G still very popular but production halted a couple of years ago, & they rose again from the ashes. Rumours abound as to their current state of affairs. I have access to a few different bikes & ride a 250 TRS Raga regularly. Top build quality, all the bling is standard kit, top suspension, & lovely to ride. Most noticeable is that can get up things which I struggle with on other bikes.

It's got an alloy barrel & AMC gearbox (I think), & you could be right about the trials frame. Lightweight swing arms were another mod. Comp models often had an alloy top yoke too. It has roadster headlight. AMC owners club can supply dating cert which will remove all doubt. Clearly it has been "modified" by a previous owner. Shocks, mudguards & exhaust all from a later period. Quite a good starting point, especially if it runs. Pre 65 trials now in the realms of science fiction & bear no resemblance to period bikes. It will tidy up nicely if you revert back to its original looks & will make a nice Greenlaner.

Hi, There's a guy who races in the Scottish classic scrambles events. Think his name is Jake. I've seen him do repairs at meetings. Might be worth trying the Scottish Classic SCRMC website or Facebook page.

2T 200cc. Quite rare though. Beta Evo one of the best. 250 2t is next best option. 270, 290, 300, all way way too much for beginners. Montesa 4rt still very popular. Peerless build quality, sounds lovely, nice to ride, but a heavy old bus, no getting away from it. Condition is paramount. Trials riders notoriously "economical". Probably better to go for one that has been used & maintained properly, instead of one that has been ragged relentlessly round the local practice area / farm on a daily basis.

Have had a few Pro's.Early 02 right up to 06. All the same. Neutral hard to find. Just had to get used to it unfortunately

One or two on T'interweb at the moment. One particularly hungry gent is trying to almost double his money !!!. (that is fact). Another with a bit of provenance also up for very strong money. So all of the very average ones are jumping on the bandwagon. Restoration parts are quite affordable & plentiful, so don't why should they be so expensive. I have a 360, & know of a mint Mk7 360, restored to race with Twin spark ignition / Mikuni / good shocks, gears that work, etc, which went for about 3.5 k last year. About half a dozen of more went through the Bonhams sale at Stafford recently & I don't think they were too dear. Quite a lot of variable quality restorations about, so you may have to go down the American import route. Don't know much about the Euro side of things, but there must be plenty still knocking about in Spain. Stay away from the later models, as they had began to lose the plot by then, but you probably already know that.

Think it "was" a K Roo model. Gone a bit too far down the leftfield "modification" route unfortunately. Engine gone, USD forks not popular these days & overall not a popular model with the retro boys. If it runs OK, why not tidy it up a bit & use it "as is". Not worth going down the restoration route IMHO.

As a general starting point for old school MX forks, take out the springs, compress the forks & fill to about 6" or 7" below top of tube.

I can get up stuff on a TRS, that I struggle a bit with on a Beta. TRS feels smaller, lower & lighter. The front end is easier to move around. I run a 9 tooth on the front which makes first/second more usable for me IMO. TRS is a bit lower geared overall. Having said that I've had several Beta's, & there is absolutely nothing wrong with them.

Beta UK recommended 75w light gear oil. That's the answer I got when I called them. Know a few people who have messed about with clutch action / plates. etc ,etc. I 've never had any bother. Change oil every 4 or 5 trials, not hours. Its generally pretty clean.

Have had numerous Betas. Can't fault em. 250 far easier to ride than the so called S/S 300. Same story with TRS. 250 lovely to ride, does it all. Well built & thought out. Gear it down a tooth at gearbox. Top gear not that high. RAGA has bling as standard. Can get up stuff I struggle a bit with on the Beta. On a salutory note, Beta Importer customer support pretty good. TRS still developing, but both marques are pretty trouble free.

Filters require light oil spraying on the outside after cleaning/ drying. It can be worked in by hand. That should take care of the dust !!!!!. (not quite so high on the agenda here in blighty). Worth having a spare filter in the van, cleaned & in a sealed plastic bag. More importantly, make sure you prevent the mud, muck & water getting in. Some bikes worse than others, so check out the forums. When you take the filter off for cleaning, (after every ride BTW,) the inside of the airbox will indicate how good a job you've been doing. It should be spotless. Avoid those special mx style filter cleaning/ oiling systems. Invariably you end up contending with a sticky horrible claggy mess.