tman427

Make sure you are TDC. Some guys like to tweak the cam position for the intake and then for the exhaust to set the valves. Always best to have the motor assembled to set the valves, then you know for sure where you are with the piston. I actually had my motor out of the frame, replacing some base gaskets and set the valves then. Much easier and more accurate way.

Thanks good to know about AllBalls....Autoparts store? Can they match up the size?

Crazy question. I have a small bit of play in the rear wheel bearings, very slight when I move the wheel side to side, but I can still feel it...is this normal? Can it still be ridden a few more time if it needs to be replaced? Will it do any damage to the wheel races the bearing sit in if I do? Any on euse the AllBalls bearings on a Beta? Are they better than stock? Plan on redoing this winter when the snow sets in, just want to get a few more rides in. Thanks Tom

This is very helpful...thank all.

What is the best way to get a bit more action or response out of the rear shock? 1. Adjust the top screw (see attachment A)? 2. Adjust the spring postion, or add more tension by turning the spacer up? Just looking for a small amount of umph for rear wheel hops. Thanks Tom

Knights Cycle up in Massachusetts did some valve and head work for me with great results. The only other dealer close to you would be:Dave Diehl at 570-437-2487 Or by email at dd.teambeta@live.com He maybe able to help.

Was it a new 2013 GG front mud guard? Think I may go this route and also mend the old one as a back up.

Thanks, did that with my 2007 Sherco rear mudgaurd ...could not kill itr after that. Used camo duct tape to hide the rivits and plates.

This is my second front fender for my 2011 Evo 4t. The first break, that was me launching off of a large rock. Bought a new one (reparing old as well) and it snapped in half crossing a stream when a stick (tree branch) got stuck under the back portion. Seems like the white fender is kind of brittle, not sure.. Still have the original back mudgaurd on though. I heard that a GasGas fender will fit a 2011 Evo 300 4t? Has any one tried this as I don't want to spend the money if it does not fit properly. Many thanks

I have a 2011 Evo 4t....same thing on the bottom shock bearing...has movement side to side, not sure if that is normal?

Just wonddering about how many hours you can put on a 2011 Evo 4t 300 before you should cahnge the oil and filter? The Manual claims about 30hrs which seems like a lot. I was figuring around 15 to 20hrs? Also, if it is just practice hours verses an event if that makes any diffrence as you would run a tad faster between sections for an event. Thanks

Great idea...thank you

Is the bleeder valve on the rear diffrent that the front one? It does not look the same and seems to be a tad shorter so when I slip a hose over to trap the air I need to hold it tight to the nut and banjo....thoughts? Many Thanks Tom

Thanks, will try.

Not sure about this one. Got about 15 hrs on my oil, Amsoil 10-40 Synth, went over one of my triangle sections and missed the back side so I went over the bars....bike was upside down, but still running. I shut her down flipped it over.... noticed a bunch of oil on my swing arm, which I imagine came out of my crank case vent hose. Started the bike up, ran like crap, puffed some white smoke, pinged and backfired a bit. Ran for a while and it cleaned out quite a bit but I noticed my clutch is not as smooth and seems to be dragging. Back brakes also seem weak, may have an air bubble in the line which will need bleeding. Anyhow, has anyone experienced the clutch engagement changing after an upside down maneuver? Thanks, great bike. Tom

I have the same set up, had to build most of my sections using large pine tree logs and so forth. Also, the local lumber yards are cool with giving out free wooden paletts that work great...see my trifecta section set up....first one is a 4 foot triangle/log....secton is a 3 foot tall palette with two ramps and the last one is a 2 foot flat top with one ramp and a wall section on the back.This is fun to ride and practice on in either direction.

Try to think of the downhill as a reverse uphill....better yet, look at it from a level or flat perspective only with your weight way back on the fender....works better with your mind

When was the last time the valves where checked?

Sorted it out....check the online manual and it showed opening up the petcok lever all the way, into the reserve, plus the choke which helped to prime it. Started up and runs great now.

I have an 2011 Evo 4t that has been running great. Starts two kicks when cold, one when hot. The other day, went off a jump an landed on the rear and front wheels together and the bike just died. It trys to start and for a couple of strokes and then just dies, like it is out of gas....could this be a vapor lock in the petcock? Many thanks Tom

They are all great bikes. However, I made the switch from a Sherco 250 2 stroke to a Beta Evo 4t four stroke and I am amazed at the diffrence in the way I ride. Four strokes work for me.

Had that in my airbox....

Doing my first oil change on a used 2011 Beta 4t. Manual says to use .81 liters or 810cc, my dealer claims to use .9 liters or 900cc. I know it is only 90cc difference, just would like to know which amount as I don't want to overfill the gearbox and cause any problems. Many thanks Tom

I have a 2011 in the states overe here, great bike, dealing with gasket issues. However, the bike starts very well hot or cold.Check your vent line that runs from the hot start and runs to the airbox, it maybe plugged, or pinched not allowing the air to hit the carb. Typicaly, I never use the hot start unless the bike gets away from me and ends up on its side.

Check your crank seals....had a Sherco with similar problems of white smoke.....