ham2

73+5=??????????????????? Holy guacamole, you're worse than wor accountant ! Twas 78 in my day, and that's after we went metric.

We're still talking about your bike here, right?

Let us know what effect it has on your symptoms?

The most commonly practiced remedy on these forums would be ''reverse bleeding'' where you use a large syringe full of fluid and force it in the nipple up to the master cylinder...works a treat. I'm a mechnical doofus so I need all the tips I can get. If you ever have a problem with your bike I would recommend you do what I do (don't reach for the toolbox,reach for the keyboard), do a search on the Sherco forum first or post up a question....loadsa practical, helpful people on TC. Sometimes there's a guy on the other side of the planet who knows exactly what your problem is, yet your local bike dealer talks a foreign (Yorkshyer?)language.

This is exactly what I was warning you about ( I got it wrong first time) but like Cope says you should be able to see the garter springs when you have assembled the seals.Don't get cold feet now!

Ditto,I'd be surprised if the shaft is bent though...you seem to have things squared up in your mind so theres nothing stopping you now....watch for that thin washer (No.1 in your photo) when you put the side-case assy back on(at that time you will be watching the dowels and the gasket line up) 'cos if you mis-lay it and it drops into the transmission, then run it!!! .....You won't drop it, I have every faith in you.

Have you read the Sherco service manual on this one,it's superb? These small bearings require very little force to seat/remove them. Judging by your photos the impeller housing seem ok, are you worried about the rough casting area?..that's just a cast passageway for your coolant,it doesn't look like the impeller has been fouling there. If the shaft is only polished and not scored I would use it again...pay attention to which way the seals are fitted (facing/out over/in over..cos I got it wrong once!!). C'mon mechanic brother you are doing well.

Do not ''use the force Luke''. Don't quit so early Warm the base of the kickstart up (hairdrier..maybe.. or a hot paint-strip gun...go easy) just where it sits on the shaft,then try again . Do not strike the shaft or kick start..err..if you can possibly help it ,I know it gets frustrating. If you get stuck it may need a puller but I've had 4 Shercos and have never needed one.

'Ere ,aren't you the geezer who started a topic on TC because you wouldn't go on a course, provided by your firm, last year???

Maybe,maybe..the ones I took out were greeny-blue the ones I (eventually) put in were broon, as you say

OFF TOPIC..Hey Markyboy that pc icon thing in your signature is peachy ..where did you get it ? I want one. I'm on the look out for a new one to make me seem more interesting.

Dry the weep hole, run the bike,you don't have to ride it, and check for new droplets. As Copey says, 2 Seals and 1 side gasket (

Please tell me you bought Viton seals for the mains?

Had a Suzuki Er trail bike which ,after just a few of days of inactivity,would 'demand' a brand new plug to start it. No amount of plug cleaning (solvent,brass brush or even autoclave) could coax it into firing up. I even tried to fool it by putting a cleaned plug into a new cardboard box but it knew..it just knew?!!

The rumour is that the beast (no, not the first lady) is so heavy that it couldn't park too close to the front door of No.10 in case it damaged the sub strata above the underground rooms..remember....it's a real rabbit warren behind/below that big black door (or should that be rat-run)?

''Leave it..it's not worth it'' :)Mine look like the rivets were peened over.If you haven't suffered from a clunky drive take-up, dinna bother.... You're as bad as me---looking for work to do whilst you've got the engine apart!! I thought it was only me who fannied on like that

Aw no ,don't tell me I've just watched a snuff video?

Ta! This is my thinking....just for now I'll put the timing all the way forward to see if the bike is more usable.

Gawd,you couldn't script this....Got it hot on the drive and now it's slightly worse, it's back-firing when warmed up(when I rev it,not when I start it) so I think I'm looking at a new stator? Is the logic that there is so much unburnt fuel in the exhaust that I'm getting the excess heat from there? She starts first or second prod whether hot or cold though?

Cheers, That first video of the superbikes,the one where the guy cartwheels down a Manx style moorside , he should be riding Trials not Road bikes.

Whoa , I personally wouldn't block those 'dribble-holes', if your bearings are sealed then they are err..sealed.

Hmmm..not sure about that?..if it's a private sale it's sold as seen.. ..caveat emptor?

STRAIGHT ANSWER-- Yep..get it bought...you can tame the bike easily just do a 'timing' search in the Sherco forum. From what I recall on the 06's : Check the rear shock is not knakked/leaking. The footpegs were at a queer height (may not be as noticable if you've come from a Beta ). I think there were a few issues with cracks in the frame at the headstock? Let us know?

Hey Neo (from experience) don't trust everything you read in those manuals ,it can be a little misleading, just do as you are doing and strip it first to see what's fitted. previous topic If it's any reference; I fitted open cage SKF bearings from a bearing wholesale supplier when I did my bike,and they're still sweet now.

How to make a Scorpa look worse------Yuk