scraggydog64

Can't comment on the electrical output of a Beta 4t but what about using some of the head mounted lights mountain bikers use?

I got some 10mm alluminium bar (steel would do) and bent it over drilled a hole through it and bolted it onto the gear lever with a bolt and nyloc nut. I would post a picture but sold the bike recently. Effectly making a 20mm tip. It was tight enough to stay in place but would fold back if required. Sorted. Scragg

To reduce the span of the lever for a small hand put a cable tie on the clutch lever bracket between the pivot and the cable adjuster. This will move the lever back towards the bars as it will not allow it to return fully. You will have to adjust the clutch for the decrease in lever travel. I did this on the front brake of my daughters PW80. Worked a treat.

If your going to drill out the broken stud get a small Dremmel type drill with a small round grinding attachment to create a small indent in the centre of the broken stud. Then you can be sure the drill will go down the centre of the stud. I find battery drills best for this type of delicate work. That 900w Makita hammer drill might prove a bit too much. Scragg

I've just gave my 05 4RT to my son and bought an 09. Yes are a bit heavier but I love them. I feel like I am cheating I get that much grip. However some folk just can't get on with them and don't like them. Each to their own. Having none entered in the British Championship probably doessn't help the popularity issue either. Realisticly the Monts on old(ish) design and things are moving on. As for Sandifords I've always had good service and advice. I think Honda are hard task masters to their dealers in terms of sales etc. Had a go on an 2010 Gas Gas 250, brilliant bike but too flighty for my limited ability, prefer the Mont. Again each to there own. I find the Mont ages well. Our 05 is as nice to ride as the 09. At this years Scott there were loads of 05 Monts. Not many 05 2 strokes. Scragg

My 06 250 was running great. Stopped the bike, when I went to restart it it back fired every time I tried to kick it over. Checked the plug - no spark. It turned out to be the stator. Those were the symptoms when mine failed. I would like to think an 08 would have a modified stator as it's a well documented problem but I don't know, ring Lampkins they would advise they are usually very helpful. It would be bad show on Betas part if they have not modified it. I was fortunate, my son had an 06 125 at the time and the electrics were the same so I used his stator to prove where the fault was. When I bought a stator it was about

Try Trialsbits. They have all fly wheel pullers and cheap. Always found them very helpfull. Scragg

Whats the best / strongest 4rt bash plate? Thanks Scraggydog

My mate races cars and has a massive garage / workshop though needed extra storage space. He's a bit particular, everythings got to be just right. He bought a garage off Warick Buildings and was very impressed. Seen it myself and it's very good, I would buy one. Theres a lot of poor wooden building manufacturers out there.

Turns out it was the HT / plug cap. Don't know if I need a special plug cap as the one I have has a 5k ohm resistance. Thanks for the help. Scragg PS Sandifords were very helpful as usual, even said to let them know what was the cause of the problem.

Sorry, forgot to mention, did the three kicks with the throttle wide open and still no spark Scragg

For the past few months my 4RT has, only on occasions, took a few more kicks to start it regardless of whether it is hot or cold. Once it starts it runs great. I used the bike last week, it was washed, dried, started up, run up to temparature and put away. Went to the trial on Sunday, signed on, got changed etc. and it wouldn't start. No spark. Done the usual, tapped the tilt sensor, changed the plug, disconnected the kill switch still no spark. Never mind, they were short of observers so I did my bit. Got home and tried all of the above again. No joy. Proved all of the plugs worked on my lads Beta. Ironic that, relying on a Beta ignition to check your plugs! Got the manual out tested the primary side of the coil, the secondary side of the coil, the ignition pulse generator and they were all within tolerance. The manual says at this point to replace the condensor. Before I do I want to eliminate the tilt sensor. Does anyone know how to bypass this? I believe it can be done. Also does anyone kone if it's possible to test the condensor? Thanks in advance, Scragg

I was told by a very respected trials bike mechanic to put some of the petrol / oil pre mix in. This bloke knows his stuff. I decided to be a bit over cautious so I used heating oil (Kerosine), as I have oil heating and a tank with 2000l of the stuff in the garden. Diesel would do the job though its marginally heavier than kerosine. Obviously don't put the gearbox under any load run it for a short while drain it and re do it. I my Rev 3 I used to use AFT in the gearbox and it worked as well as any other oil. Buy it by the gallon from a motor factors and it's about

I retarded the ignition on my 05 290 and cannot recall the stator plate position being marked. I just measured the amount of gap between the edge of the slot and the screw head in case I wanted to go back to standard. You could just use a permanent marker pen. When retarding the ignition do it by a fair amount or you won't notice the difference. Scragg

Hello all, I apologise in advance because brake bleeding has been discussed to death on the forums. My lad rode my 4RT the other week and burnt the back brake out. Don't know how. The disc was warped and the cylinder seals were melted. New disc, seals and copper washers were fitted. I've bled a few brakes in my time and thought I had the knack. Pays not to be cocky because I have been on night after night trying to get this one bled. Did AJP design the rear caliper to trap air? Why is accessing the fluid reservoir like keyhole surgery? I think I am getting bitter. Anyway, I have constantly bled the thing. I remove the rear brake lever and use an allan key to get enough stroke on the cylinder to push the fluid through. I have tried back bleeding, I have tried bleeding with the caliper at all different positions to displace any air but still no joy. When I removed dust cover from the cylinder and there was a very slight trace of fluid beside the circlip. My question is do you think its possible to damage the cylinder seals using an allan key to pump the brakes when bleeding? After all it was damage to the caliper that caused the problem. Any advice would be welcome. If you lot can't help I am on the phone to the Samaritans. Will they have anyone who knows how to fix brakes? Thanks in advance, Scragg

The filter is not sealed in I've had mine to bits. It's only small and would block easily. Before you go to the expense of a new pump it's got to be worth a try. Another thought is I would guess Montesa would not have a bespoke fuel pump made. The fuel pump is a big heavy lump of metal for a trials bike. I bet there will be road bikes out there with a similar pump though I don't know which ones. You're local breaker might be able to help. Scragg

There is a fuel filter built into the fuel pump. Its a bit awkward to get at. You need to remove the pump and from memory its behind a screwed on plate at the bottom. For want of a better description it looks like a tea bag with a hole in. I don't think there is any reference to it in the manual. Its awkward to clean as well. I just kept rinsing it in clean petrol. Hope this helps. Scragg

Never tried this before but seen it on this site and it sounds like a good idea. Get a suitable size rawl bolt and expand it in the inner race of one of the bearings then you will have something to hit. If you've got a welder weld something onto the inner race. Scragg

My 315 had a terrible clutch. All of the original clutches were bad, its a well documented problem on here. The clutch grabbed, dragged at a stand still and it was imposible to find neutral at a stand still. I got some replacement friction plates from Haven (I think) and I used PJ1 75w light gear oil. Transformed the bike and they were relatively cheap though it was a few years ago. Top tip - remove the clutch cover to put the gear oil in its far easier and the cover has an O ring that is re useable. Regards Scragg

My Sherco was 18 months and needed new main bearings before it wore out it's original back tyre. The last engine rebuild I did was 20 years ago but I did this one myself and it was no problem. The Ryan Young website manual was excellent. Got a flywheel puller from those nice people at Trialsbits. What I learned the hard way was;- There is a definite art to getting the engine out of the frame. Remove as much as possible in situ. Remove both the crankshaft end nuts with the engine in the frame. I made a holding tool but an impact wrench is far easier. Scraggydog

Apparently theres a bloke in Darlington area (I think?) who rebuilds suspension. Never had anything done by him but I know others that have. Sorry I do not have his details. Ask about. At a push I may be able to get his details. PM me if your stuck. Scraggydog

Similar thing happened to my sons Beta 125. It was the choke not returning to the fully closed position. When you move the lever up to switch the choke off the plunger does not fully close letting the engine run rich and therefore not allowing it to rev out. The choke has a very weak return spiring and the slightest amount of dirt / corrosion affects it. Take the carb off and clean it all up. Hope this works. Scragg

I am not familiar with a TLM 220 but for past bikes I have used a thread gauge from machine mart etc. to measure the pitch of the thread, they are about

It makes me bad to listen to these people moan. They go to a venue and complain about the conditions or the trial itself. Not all venues are ideal but we have a limited amount of places to ride and have to make the best of what there is. Active club members spend a considerable amount of their free time putting on a trial for the love of the sport, so we can ride. The people who do not appreciate this are just ungrateful, they don't deserve to ride. If they don't like it they should play a more active part in their club to improve matters. The organisers should be applauded for their efforts. As well as thanking the observers I always try to make a point of thanking the organisers. Without them their would be no trials. I think I'd better get off the soap box now and calm down. Scragg

My 06 250 Rev3 backfired only once as long as I had it. 20 minutes later it would not start. It proved to be the stator. Sorry, probably not the news you wanted. Fortunatley (For me) my lad had an 06 125 so we swapped his stator onto my bike to prove that was it before I spent the