scraggydog64

I had the same problem albeit with a 250 Rev 3. I rang BETA Uk to purchase a smaller pilot jet. The gent I spoke to asked what ratio of pre mix I was using, which at the time was 65:1 using fully synthetic oil. He told me to try running 80:1 before altering the jetting. He was spot on, the bike ran loads cleaner and there was no need to "clear it out" before riding a section. Regards Michael

I bought an 05 290 not long after I started trials and it was way too much for me. Ended up with the ignition retarded well back and a slow action throttle. If you looking to buy one the make it less aggresive I would look elsewhere. Often less is more especially in trials. Best thging I did was selling it, nothing wrong with the bike it was just way beyond my ability. Cheers Scragg

I have had some long nights in the garage bleeding brakes, the rear brake on my last mont took weeks to get right. In the end, following the recommendation of a knowledgeable friend I got a Gunson Easy Bleeder (about

Hello All I am changing the fork oil in my 4RT. When doing the right hand fork leg (the one with the damping) what position is the damper rod when measuring the fork oil level? Fully extended out of the fork tube or fully inserted with the cap removed. I have read the manual but it does not appear to give you the position. Thanks Scragg

On all of the calipers I havehad apart there is an O ring or a rubber washer. I don't know what year your bike is but you can fit the later model four piston caliper. A properly set up two piston job is okay if it is orking right. Regards Scragg

I feel like some sort of stalker. I was at Shaw Gutter, Tank Trap and Reels Head. I am also a member of Consett Club. The Scott was awesome as usual. You have got to admire the Richmond Club, all those volunteers putting on such a huge event, absolutley brilliant. Long may it continue. Thanks Scragg

Try trialsbits, very reasonable and very helpful. You will need to know the diameter and the pitch of the thread. Cheers Scragg

Done mine. The Ramblers Association are a very strong political body, they had a lot of input in the Countryside and Rights of Way Act 2000. They are all for access to the Countryside for themselves at the detriment of others. Send off your politley worded objection now! Cheers Scragg

Hi I am curious, were Haven

Unless the coolant is getting through to the gear box (milky looking oil through the sight glass) I wouldn't bother replacing the casing, just run it on proper coolant from now on. Depending on where the damage is it can often be repaired with "plastic metal" type compound though not if damage is on the bearing housing or where the seals are located. The new casings are alluminium, I replaced one on my 250, two weeks later the one on my lads 125 went so I replaced that one. Two weeks later he bashed the water pump off a rock and broke the casing. I bought a third then one of my mates told me he used to repair his CR450 casings with plastic metal so I gave it a go on and it worked. Unfortunately I gave the new, unused casing to the person who bought the 125.

Most old Yamahas use the same 27mm 1mm pitch flywheel puller with a left hand thread. You are turning it in anticlockwise?

Before you try anything else just try raising the tickover, it's the large brass screw on the right hand side of the fuel injection. They tickover at about 1900 rpm, if it's any lower they won't start. If your new to the bike you need to start it with a closed throttle so the tickover needs to be right. Is it a bad starter after you've reset the ECU?

What year is your bike? I had an 05, brilliant starter, we still have as my son rides it. Bought an 09 and its a bit fickle, sometimes its starts no problem, other time you have to reset the ECU (full throttle one slow kick.) then it fires up. Sometimes it fires and the engine runs too slow before its sorts itself out. It will start everytime if I increase the tickover but by this time it's too fast to ride. I have asked others who have had older and newer 4RT's and they say the same. Regards

You will need a flywheel puller I got one from trials bits but I can't recall the size. You may not need a clutch tool if you have an impact wrench, can't recall. I seem to remember it was an absolute bugger getting the engine out of the the frame. With hind sight I would remove the top end with the engine in the frame.

I did mine and it was no problem with the manuals down loaded from the Ryan Young website. What I did do wrong was not undo the both crankshaft end bolts with the engine in the frame. However if you have an impact wrench it won't be a problem.

The sticker on my rear mudguard has starting lifting at the edges. Does anyone know of the best way to re stick them down? I have tried super glue in the past but it dry's very hard and seems to lose it's bond when the mudguard flexes. Thanks Scragg

What I mean't was you have to drill the actual fluid reservoir cap fitted to the bike. When the job is finished there is the rubber insert between the cap and the fluid. I blanked off the hole in the cap with a nut, bolt and pair of washers until I get round to ordering a new cap.

I have spent many a miserable hour trying to bleed rear brakes. Someone advised getting an easi bleeder, Halfords sell them, job done in minutes. The only downside is you have to drill the fluid reservoir cap. Wished I bought it years ago.

What year is your 4RT? The reason I ask is that I had an 05 (My son still has it.) and it was a great starter, generally first kick. I now have an 09 and it sometimes starts first kick, it often does not. I have to hold the throttle wide open and kick slowly once (I was told to kick three times initially.)to reset the ECU, then close the throttle and it will start first time. I have heard others say the newer models are not as good at starting. It's the idle speed. If I up the idle speed it will start reliably first time every time but the tick over so high its too fast in a section. Regards Scragg

The chokes are bad to turn off / on especially with gloves on. When you have the carb off file a grove in either side of the plastic lever and put a thin cable tie around, its easier to pull the cable tie to switch the choke off than trying to get your finger in behind the frame. Also the gear box oil filler is behind the clutch banjo bolt, it's very inacessible. For every 100ml of oil you get in the gearbox you get 200ml on the garage floor. I used to remove the clutch cover lie the bike on it's side and pour the oil in there. Its got a reusable O ring. Regards Scragg

I have spent many a miserable hour trying to bleed rear brakes on all makes of trials bikes. My Mont had me beat. Someone suggested an easi bleeder, you have to drill a hole in the fluid reservoir cap but it worked a treat. Wished I bought one years ago. Halfords, Machine Mart etc sell them for about

The fan was probably made by a company called Spal. I tried to buy get an alternative when the one broke on my my Beta. Couldn't find one anywhere so paid about

I would rather ride a trial than practice. You never tend to push yourself when practicing however if you make some flags you can make your practice sections gradually harder and hopefully get some benefit. Regards Scragg

I've got a 4RT, my second one, and love it to bits. However, they don't suit everyone, try and blag a go on as many bikes as possible before you decide. The problem is most people tell you what ever bike they have at the time is the best. You really need to try a few and make your own mind up. Regards Scragg

Not that hard a job. The magnesium clutch / water pump case does not like anti freeze and water and corrodes, you need to use a proper engine coolant. I would not discount the seals but if you remove the water pump cover it is likely you will see the corrosion. I think the new casings are alloy and not magnesium. Me and my lad both used to ride REV 3s and our casings went within weeks of each other. Then he hit his off a rock. I bought three in a matter of months. BETA bits are quite pricey now down to the