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howard wallace

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Everything posted by howard wallace
 
 
  1. Nigel, Get the KeiHin on and you won`t go back !!!
  2. Copemech, Always interests me, the different header pipe lengths. Thought the 05 was special, then noticed the same pipe on Manzanos factory bike, on the 02 Sherco factory poster, and Jarvis`s on the 03. Think the R+D is a couple of years ahead of what they give us ???
  3. RE 500, Yes the drain plugs are identical , BUT, one of them has an alloy washer between the O-Ring and the head, that gives clearance between the crank and the drainplug magnet. Re the discussion of 4T`s running too hot ??? My experiance is if an engine is running too hot, the first thing it does is boil. Anyone had boiling problems?????
  4. Nice looking bike!! great lateral thinking on the exhaust Good to see another player, willing to invest in the continuation of our fantastic sport.
  5. Ishy, Re checked my shims after about twenty hours ,and only one exhaust had closed up a thou, pretty impressive. Re the flatslide, just wanted to try it as had it sitting round off 2T, and had a greater range of jets and needles to tune with. Ran sweet all weekend ,with very fine tunability on the pilot. With stalling ,and restart, I think you get a chuff or pulse back into the intake, and this seems to upset mixture. Also found a couple of kicks with open throttle, then closed, and fires up next kick.
  6. Fitted heaps to Sherco`s, run 112 main 42 pilot JJH needle and 19 mm float height. Need a carb to airbox adaptor, multi diameter car radiator hoses fit neat. Highly recommend you spend the dollars,best value improvement I`ve ever put on a bike. Check out all the factory bikes, know what they`re running !!!!
  7. Neonsurge, Some shocks have a small hex grub screw ,in the side of the ring that locks on the main body thread.
  8. Webmonkey, I`m in Australia. Over the last few years we`ve fitted about forty flatslides on 2T`s from the 125 to 290`s. They are fitted to most 85cc motocross bikes, so shop around. We have a supplier here that has all the jets and needles as aftermarket items. Had three hours on my 4T yesterday, and am wrapped in the KeiHin. JJH needle is on the top clip so is slightly on the rich side and I`ll be chasing up the next leaner range. 110 main and 40 pilot are spot on.Float level at 20mm. The carb fits straight on with no need to change manifolds, as the Dellorto is a 28mm anyway, the fuel line fits away from the exhaust better and I used an overflow tube as fuel line ,looped it up over carb round under manifold and up to the fuel tap. Cut 4mm off the Dellorto cable adjuster thread both ends and your set to go. Fuel economy is improved greatly on the 2T`s and feel the 4`t is going to be the same, three hours on about 2/3 of a tank.
  9. Cota Kid, You mention a lot of compression. Is it compression, or kick back?. Where the kick starter throws you back up when it fires. If so, possibly the ignition timing has changed. The keyway that locates the flywheel may have sheared and allowed the timing to advance too far. The key only locates the flywheel ,and the taper on the crank is what locks the flywheel and does the driving. If the flywheel nut comes loose ,and the taper lets go, it shears the key off. Sorry if you know this already,? but it`s just my two bobs worth. Hope it helps. ShercoH
  10. Ishy, Removed tappet cover the same way, only removed head brace bolt and front lower bolt, pressed head forward same as you ,with screwdriver and cover slides forwards. Drain oil as per factory instructions!!!! .The 6mm screw under the oil filter plug, lets out about 200 mls extra oil ,after you`ve removed the filter and tipped bike over.Didn`t do this and blew oil out breather, overfull !!! Running two 3.2 t`s here at the moment from shop, fitted one with KeiHin flatslide, as found they were always great on 2t. Carb fits straight on, shorten cable adjuster 4mm, and running at the moment ,40 pilot 110 main JJH needle in fourth clip position and 21mm float . Bike feels very sweet, will be comparing the two this weekend. Marky Boy, I admit they will require more work initially ,to set shims on run in, and a few oil changes, but believe me, to ride, they are going to do the business. Will be a bike that covers all rider abilities like nothing before. Cheers, ShercoH
  11. Webmonkey, My post was definately aimed at Honda RS. I agree with John, just don`t see the point in negative comment about brands, for no apparent reason. Could be a case of" Sherco Envy" bit of that going round lately. ShercoH
  12. Honda RS, Maybe the Sherco guys are willing to discuss their bikes,? both good and bad points. I believe these forums were set up to be used as a worldwide discussion about "THE BIKES" Why do people have to add their negative comments,into what probably doesn`t even affect them, as they ride another brand. By putting negative comments about a brand ,all your doing is to stop people ,who may have a problem with their bike from asking questions,for the fear of criticism. All your doing is damaging this site ,and eventually the sport we all live for. Hell the sport struggles enough as it is, without white anting from it`s own riders. IF YOU`VE GOT NOTHING NICE TO SAY, THEN SAY NOTHING AT ALL. ShercoH
  13. RE 500, Sounds like your definately onto your problem. .2 mm error would affect the de compressor action. Shims should be available from your dealer ? here in Oz we got in four full sets, with the first batch of bikes. Your not going to believe the differance when you get it sorted. ShercoH.
  14. Hey Ishy, Sound like you had a good scare !!! Yep they sure are neat to work on, very easy to slide rocker shafts out , and replace shims. I checked both de-compressors on the ones I`ve worked on, and they were very free , with no sign of sticking. Shims on both bikes were not changed, but on re assembly, both de comps worked. I looked at the triangle plate clearance to de comp, and it`s clear, so still no idea on what I changed. ShercoH
  15. Big John, Yes it`s definately the de-compressor, when the motor drops to low revs, the weight on the de-compressor, is not being thrown out , and starts to engage on the exhaust rocker. It`s a sound that`s music to my ears, as I spent two days trying to kick mine over without it working, absolute nightmare. Total opposite now though !!!!!! Spent two days solid on it, and am totally wrapped in the bike, especially in the wet !!!!! Cheers, ShercoH
  16. Big John, This is the embarassing bit, I`m not sure. Removed the tappet cover to do shims, checked the action of the de-compressor, understood how it worked ,and all looked fine. Re assembled motor and realised how easy it was to kick over.And noticed the "clack" evident when turning off,as I hadn`t heard it, after riding the bike for several hours. Did a service on another 4T, last night ,which had the same symptoms. Checked the actuation of the de-compressor and again it looked fine.Ran the motor before hand to check if I could get it to clatter when at low revs, and it wouldn`t. But an re-assembly, it`s working fine. I`m missing something, will check if the tappet cover or the gasket can possibly get close enough, to affect the compressor weight. Will definately let you know if I find something, as I`m not a great believer in Black Magic, although at the moment it`s on the list. Cheers from a baffled, ShercoH
  17. RE 500 Yes you can, but remove the tappet cover first, as there`s a rubber gasket that seals on top of the triangle plate The triangle also supports the cam, and has a shim that sets the cam endfloat. The quickest way to check if it`s working is you`ll hear a loud clack as you turn the motor off, or if you wind the idle right down it will clatter. This is the decompressor trying to engage at revs similar to kick starter speeds. If you think it`s working, try just pushing the kick starter through in an even motion, and not giving it a sudden sharp kick, as this might be throwing the decompressor out before it has a chance to work. Hope this is of some help, no doubt we`ve left ourselves open for plenty of sarcasm, but hey, I`ve got broad shoulders. Hope some of the "TRIALS RIDERS "and not the Bar Jockeys get some use out of these fantastic Forums. Cheers, ShercoH
  18. RE 500 don`t recommend you stay with the longer kickstarter, as you`ll load up the starter gear train, and could lead to damage. Once the decompressor is right, it feels like you could start it with your hand. There`s a centrifugal weight on the cam that contacts the exhaust rocker, if this does not return to correct position, when stopped, it will not engage rocker on the next startup. Check that your`s is right down wresting on the cam centre shaft and not sitting up. ShercoH
  19. Johnnysherco, Thanks, I`ve had mine apart and fixed it, while checking the shims. Couldn`t believe how easy it is to start now!!!!, as I was battling against the full compression before. Sure is a simple setup. ShercoH
  20. Ishy, Yes we always seem to get the odd bit of tripe ,on these forums.Strange little quirk of human nature, to be negative and critical of anything ,other than what they ride !! On a positive note, my shims didn`t need doing after several hours, and they`re a lovely setup ,especially the roller rockers, should last forever. All up, took me a couple of hours,to theck clearances and have going again. Cheers, ShercoH
  21. Paul, Runs great, plenty of torque and traction, just a little distressing with the starting. Different bike now though, catch me at the next meet and take it for a run. Start saving your dollars, and always be a model husband !! not just when you want something, they have long memories I have noticed. Cheers, ShercoH
  22. I found by removing the radiator, which is much easier than the 2T, and comes out ,the front of the frame. You can remove the tappet cover and slide it forward over the cam gear in an arc towards the front wheel. This also leaves the front of the head wide open to check shim clearance. ShercoH
  23. RE 500 You talk of needing huge effort to start your 4T. well I can sympathise with you. I`m 58 kilo and really struggled with turning mine over. The decompressor on mine was not working, but once fixed it is like kicking over a 125, just push down on the lever and it flows through to the footpeg. Previously it would support me weight and push back. Fires up very easily when hot and is a totally different bike, hope this is of some help ShercoH
  24. Just got my 4T ,and I`m 58 kilo`s. Tore my hair out trying to start it !!! Turns out the decompressor was not working properly. I was throwing myself at the starter, to try and turn it over.Now I just press down on the lever and it fires into life, almost as easy as the Montesa. Noticed that when the bike is turned off there is a metalic "clack" as the decompressor engages at low revs, as the motor winds down. This was not evident before, when hard to start. Hope this helps anyone with starting problems. Totally transformed the bike !!!!!!! Cheers, ShercoH.
 
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