howard wallace

Ishy, Didn`t spend a lot of time with the carb , was mainly chasing the querky starting . Ended up with a 110 45 and JJJ, Back on a 2T now Found bike would not rev out cleanly with any bigger main, but needed to be rich down low to retain the punch. I think Paxau is doing a KeiHin for the 4T , would be worth asking what he is running. Cheers, ShercoH

Sounds like Howard has experience at fouling a main shaft! Done all the maintenance, and warranty work, for the Australian Sherco importer over the last seven years .So I get to see and hear about most problems.

Definately sound like the weld. You`ll have to remove the main case with the water pump and then the clutch basket. The selector is clearly visible, and is easily removed. Make sure you weld it in exactly the same spot, as it will place the gear lever in a different position if you don`t. The main clutch hub nut must not be overtightened, as it will shrink the bore that the actuator rod operates in and causes a slow acting clutch operation. ShercoH

Shercogeezer, If you have return of the gear lever to the neutral position, then the spring won`t be broken.When it`s broken the lever sits down on the bashplate, and usually the broken piece of spring finds its way into the nearest gear set, and does as much damage as possible.Recommend not starting it, if the gear lever is floppy. Sometimes the weld on the gear selector arm to shaft lets go, and causes selection problems. Easy to check before pulling clutch basket off. Assume you have checked that the levers not bent, and hitting the plastic sprocket cover , before it gets enough travel to pick the top four gears. Cheers ShercoH

550 cc of oil is too much.Have seen this problem and correct oil amount is critical Factory recommend 450 cc at oil change and 500 cc on rebuild. Other possibility is a crank seal gone , but bike will usually blow heaps of smoke, and run poorly down low. The water pump has a little bleed hole, between the two seals on the shaft. It`s in the case at the front of the pump impeller housing , about 1 mm diameter, if there is water or oil coming out , needs repair.Usually a new shaft , as the seals cut into the shaft , loose tension, and leak. Cheers, ShercoH

Make sure you get the original chain. They are actually listed as a specific trials chain, and are narrower than the MX or O-Ring type. You`ll chop the chain tensioner block up with the MX chain, and they come awfully close to the engine cases. Use a vernier and measure across the side plates and pin length, there`s millimeters of differance. ShercoH

Short of observers ????? Stick the top grades in a hat, draw three names out per section that needs observing.After each lap, riders change and share the duty. They also get to watch lower grades, and give assistance.

My Mum had a hip and knee replaced, and is in her 70`s.Slacked round on the physio recovery exercises, and suffered for years ,till I got her on an exercise bike. Within six months she`s a totally different person. No limp and now brags how many K`s a day she`s doin.

Check the chrome sliders for any nicks or dings, slightest damage from a rock will cut the seal the first time it passes over damaged area. Seals should last for many years, if they are going weeks after replacing, somethings tearing them up ??

It`s a prototype Scorpa, that is on display in Scorpa`s "museum" at the French factory.Along with all their previous models including the indoor special that Jarvis rode ,while he was with them.

Does the rattle change when you pull the clutch in, or if you put the brakes on and load up the clutch.If it goes away, most likely rattle between the straight cut gears on the primary drive, and clutch basket. Nothing to worry about.

Come on GIZZA5, he owns a Hardley Rideable, next best sports bike to the Massey Ferguson. He just assumes form, is far more important than function.

Agree with you Charlie,on checking the flywheel key, sound like it could be retarded. Makes em run real hot, and doughy.

Sounds like your going to need a couple of spare, pre-charged batteries, and a direct link into the power grid.

What`s with the number #2 on the plate ????? Gotta kick Dad`s butt, before he gets #1.

The 2005 will be a much livelier bike than your 2001. It will have the small flywheel, and I`m sure you`ll find it will have a heap more power. Don`t mess with it, and ride the wheels off it.

Paxau 125`s run the PWK,I`ve ridden one in competition ,and it had plenty of power. What model is yours ?. Later models run a much smaller flywheel, and this really livens them up. I`d look at the flywheel, before you went the carb.

Ah Webmonkey, Try the JJJ needle and you`ll be at the settings I recommended.JJH is richer on the parallel section, which blends into the slide cutaway, and runs through to half throttle. Running on the second clip position means JJH is tending towards rich. JJJ gives a better bottom end tunability. Trust me I`ve been there How`s it run upside down though, I`m still keen to know !!!!!

No, not seen that option, but it looks like it`s only for the 38 mm carb, your not intending to road race it are you ???? Check if your fan is still on when the motors cold, just to make sure there`s no electrical or thermostat problem Outlaw Dave, Factory e-mail should have read, adjust inlet to .13 from .10 thanks for picking that up.

The pilot screw should run between 1/2 to 1 1/2 turns out, so your pilot is about right.The popping is lean mixture .When you wind the pilot screw out, you are letting in more air. Fans on more often? hotter day? or the fuel mixture is burning hotter ,due to a leaner mixture, compared to the Dellorto. Wouldn`t worry, as temp wise it wouldn`t be much higher, as long as it`s not boiling, it will be fine. Dave, will check with factory on those valve settings, E-Mail states admittance valve,I assumed that`s the inlet, but may be different to the Spanish

Sir Sherco, Not sure what model you`ve got ? ,but 01 went to double seals in the pump, So there`s two seals between water and gearbox oil. If the water one goes ,it leaks out through a little indicator hole at the front of the case. Might be well worth the upgrade.?

Ishy, Keep an eye on the air box, as I think that would be the first bit to melt,apart from your willie !!!! Are you talking about the ceramic coating, which is like gloss black pottery ceramic, found it cracks pretty easily. Or the silvery alloy coating, called Jet Hot. This is far more user friendly, but I`m not sure on it`s heat properties. Think Billy is saying that one of these meters, is what you need. http://www.lsa.com.au/BM-9.htm

Webmonkey, the JJH will be close to the mark.But I had to run it on the top clip, the JJJ runs on the middle clip, and feels more progressive. Interested to see if you notice any difference in fuel usage.Just read a factory email recommending, inlet at .13 instead of .15 ,and idle set at 1,300. Will be having a play with these settings. Let me know if the KeiHin keeps it running when the bikes upside down.???

Basically. The four stroke burns it fuel charge more efficiently, and thus a hotter exhaust gas entering the header pipe. The two stroke is not as an efficient burner of its charge, but does it twice as often, and has a large amount of unburnt charge exit into the header pipe. This is where exhaust are crucial on two strokes. Expansion chambers are critical for pushing that charge back into the cylinder with positive and scavenging with negative pressure waves. To the point where a customer 2T, had a leaking header pipe gasket, this was letting fresh air into the header, causing it to re-ignite the exhaust charge. It got that hot the header went blue and the plastic guard on the muffler melted. The Sherco runs a very light gauge,single wall, stainless header. The light gauge saves weight, but the stainless retains heat, can`t have it all. But best of all it doesn`t rust. Ishy, measuring the header temp is the best way to tune, and diagnose an engine. A V8 with a temp sensor in each header ,on a dyno, will tell you the perfect mixture, and if any cylinders are lazy.I`ll stop there cause that`s another interest of mine.Comes with Pickups, big blocks, and blowers. Well, left myself open for some comments now, though it has been peaceful round here lately.

Webmonkey, For starters stop tipping the thing upside down mate Try lowering the Dellorto float level a mill at a time, by measuring from the bowl face to the tangs that close the needle. Sure this will fix your problem. The KeiHin when set up, will still run when the bikes lying on its side, and when balancing up a brick wall with the handlebar crossbrace against your chest. That`s about as close to a test that I can give you, to compare. As long as your brick walls are as steep as ours. Running a 40 pilot 110 main and a JJJ needle, and if you want more top end run a 120 main.