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5/16" 22 tpi is a B.S.F. thread, try ebay
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Twa pehs = two pies (Scotch pies)
twa plehn bridies = two plain bridies (a type of mince meat pasty without onions)
ananinyininana = and an onion in another (he's asking for another bridie but this time it has onion in it)
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If you haven't got the cash now, my advice is to wait until the winter, you'll get a lot more bike for your cash and it'll give you more time to save up.
However I know what it's like having your mind set on something and wanting it now.
As for the older bikes, they are more than capable machines and will do far more than you can at this stage, now and again an absolute corker comes up for sale, very little use and well maintained but be prepared to travel for it.
Bike prices are at a premium this time of year and if your budget is £1000 you'll be lucky to get a decent bike under 12 years old for that money
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Take your front brake lever off
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If you want to keep the original kill switch just in case the lanyard fails to work (it's been known) if you wire the switches up as below, then either will cut the engine.
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The kill switch is open circuit, when you press the button it becomes closed circuit and sends the electricity to earth which kills the engine.
By just popping off your red & black wires you're still leaving it open circuit, if you'd have touched them to earth (or maybe just the red one) the engine would have stopped.
Lanyards work the same way, magnet attached = open circuit, magnet unattached = closed circuit to earth.
If you temporarily connect the wires from the lanyard to your kill switch red & black wires, you should find that it cuts the engine when you take the magnet off.
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Or - I've no idea why I skidded officer, I think I see the problem Sir, one of your wheels has 'locked up'
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The voltage regulator (transval 415) should push out around 12v AC and the rectifier (leonelli spain) should push out around 12v DC
If your not sure why it's wired up like this - the original lighting circuit can cope with AC current, that's why there is only a voltage regulator in that circuit, but the fan motor requires DC current hence the rectifier to change AC to DC
As for cheap alternatives unless you want Chinese pit bike parts have a look at these
Voltage regulator
Rectifier
These wired up correctly should do the job
Voltage regulator is simply - black to ground, yellow to yellow side of thermo switch.
Rectifier - Alternator AC to blue side of thermo switch, positive (red dot) to red/blue on fan, negative to black on fan, other AC regulator to green ground.
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It's times like this when you need 'anti-lock' brakes
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If you're still getting 24v AC after splicing yellow wire from 12vAC regulator, I'd hazard a guess that regulator isn't working, did you have it grounded when testing voltage, does it require grounding? Also have a look through this thread http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/45659-txt-280-non-pro-voltage-regulator-fan-motor-not-spinning/
Turns out his voltage regulator was U.S.
Edit - What voltage are you getting between black and red/blue wires to fan?
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Could it be that most dab with left out of instinct, in that when riding a 'metric' road going bike, (which I'm sure most of us have), that the first foot to go down when coming to a stop is the left foot, as lineaway says 'the right foot needs to be on the brake'. Having said all this, what do those who are used to riding the old 'imperial' bikes think?
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Not sure how you've bypassed the temp sensor, have you checked that there is voltage at the wires you have bypassed it with?
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Hi Mattylad
I'm using original 428 chain and a 51t rear sprocket. I've only changed the front sprocket for now,the chain & rear sprocket still have plenty of life in them, when either of the three has worn out I'll replace the whole set.
The 520 chain is not recommended for the TY175 as a trials set up,(ok for trail work I believe) as it's heavier 'it saps power' also trying to get a 51t 520 rear sprocket for a 175 you'll be searching for a while (unless anyone knows different)
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Just fitted one of these, this modification must be the most value for money improvement any beginner can make to a stock set up, if you haven't got one, get one.
In 1st gear the bike now goes round corners instead of straight on, balance is better, climbs are easier and more controlled in 2nd and 3rd gears.
If doing the job yourself, you'll most likely need a chain splitter, I had to remove a full link or the chain would have been too long.
Also you may need to reduce the outside diameter of the sprocket nut captive washer, otherwise it will foul on the chain.
Apart from that, it's quite straight forward and the benefits it brings are well worth it.
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Was at a trial yesterday, a bloke leant his bike against a rock and left his engine ticking over, whilst he walked the section, the bike fell over and throttle jammed wide open, engine screaming, he got to his bike just before I did and the first thing he did was pick the bike up, ironically there on his bars was a lanyard.
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If you google 'ty175 strobe' you'll find instructions on how to set electronic timing with a strobe, they give a measurement of 28mm (on flywheel) BTDC or 22 degrees BTDC as full advance.
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We must have been at the same trial
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I wouldn't use carb cleaner, rubber doesn't like it.
Take the wheel and tyre down to the tyre fitters and ask them to do it, if you see one of the fitters he'll probably do it for a drink.
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Brilliant news and a great attitude Tony, so glad you enjoyed your first trial.
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"It was like that when I brought it and hasn't never been a problem whilst I've had it"
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Couldn't you make one?
Flat rubber, cut to shape, cut groove with a dremel, drill hole, glue rubber tube into hole.
Or contact these as they may be able to supply one already made.
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Tony if you do manage to get to the all fools trial and would like a buddy for the day, here's a pic of my bike and helmet, I'll be happy to ride with you, just introduce yourself when you get there - Ian
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Just watch what I do and you'll soon see where all the soft spots are, I'm sure there's a mud magnet hidden in my helmet.
If you do join it'll be the best £50 you spend this year, it's an excellent place, but play safe don't go on your own, it's a bit remote.
As for the nerves you'll soon loose them once you complete a section, no matter what your score is and by the end you'll be grinning from ear to there
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Hi Tony it's mainly muddy, there are rocks around, but as a beginner you won't be going over many rocks. Just come (if you can) have a go, if you don't feel confident at a section just take a five or paddle your way through. There are plenty of beginners riding (me included). Everyone is friendly and helpful. Just remember at this stage the points don't matter, it's gaining experience you need.
If the last two ESTC trials are anything to go by there'll be 80-90 riders, so you'll get a bit of queuing at some sections. If you don't complete all the sections, don't worry just enjoy the day. The trial starts at 10.30 but I think there is a presentation at this one so it maybe a little later. I usually aim to get there by 9.30, saves rushing around and gives you chance to check bike over, have a little practice (not on the sections though) you can take a look at the sections and have a cuppa from the burger van etc. There are no toilets on site unless you include the hedges that is.
The main parking area gets pretty full early on, so park this side of the motorway bridge, there is an area on the left between the motorway bridge and a chain link fence to park, do not park this side of the chain link fence it's private land or there is a grass verge opposite on the right you can use, if in doubt ask.
There are a few videos on youtube which give you an idea of what the ground is like.
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MIxture set too rich? - unburnt fuel entering exhaust
Air filter not clean? - enriches mixture
Wrong type of plug? - Inefficient burn
Float valve not sealing? - Carb flooding
Float height not correct? - Carb flooding
2 stroke oil/petrol ratio mix incorrect? Inefficient burn and excess oil in exhaust
Choke mechanism faulty? - rich mixture
Or could be a combination of either?
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