ourian

My rear IRC has no 'E' or 'MST' markings, neither has my front Michelin 'Trial competition'

I originally thought about mounting the switch next to the grip, but you get quite a loop hanging down below the bars, so I moved the switch closer to the centre of the bars, where there's less of a loop, just a thought.

I don't disagree with the above, but the point of a lanyard kill switch is to be used in an emergency when riding sections, in between I can always slip the lanyard off. Another thing to bear in mind is the type of bike one rides, on a modern, the bars are a lot further away from the engine, I ride a TY the only carb adjustment is tick over or mixture which is either done with the left hand or a screwdriver, finding neutral once the engine is running should I need it, is usually done by the left hand whilst holding the clutch with the right and should an irritable itch occur I can still reach my Bo!!ox with my right hand.

I just asked myself "In the case of an emergency, which hand would I want to be the last to leave the bike, before I wanted the engine to die?" If the left comes off first I can hopefully shut the throttle and apply the brake. If the right comes off first the only thing I can hope to do is pull the clutch. So I came up with putting the lanyard on the throttle hand, which in my way of thinking gives me more control over the bike, should either hand leave the bars.

I've got an Apico, it works fine, have got mine on throttle wrist, can be a pain if you need to use hand to pull kick start lever out. But does get a laugh when you wave

Don't be too hard on yourself - you may have solved a long standing problem for a few more Gas Gas owners.

Is the float valve sticking? Try - removing fuel pipe from petrol tap and then blowing down fuel line, reconnect and wait for float bowl to fill, then try starting.

Now there's a coincidence, I'm new to trials and have just sold my '97 contact JTX250 and brought a TY175 instead. They both weigh the same 81kg, but although the JTX is lighter on the front end by approx 4 kilos, it also feels heavier overall. The power delivery of the TY is different, slow to start but then kicks in, whereas the JTX is instant and constant from the word go. Sump clearance on the JTX is approx 2"-3" higher and therefore feels higher when riding. Parts are still available from Gas Gas for the JTX and the build quality was fine, probably stronger than a newer bike. Is it possible that the TY you rode didn't have the pegs lowered and set further back, which would explain a heavy front end? As for being flung off, you need to accept it as being part of the learning experience, the bike won't fling you off, you be doing that yourself, having said that I do agree that a 290 is too powerful for a novice, stick to a 250 or lower. If you do choose an older bike make sure it has been maintained well and not abused.

Some cracking photos Gary, I like the way the subjects stand out from the back ground and you've certainly managed to bring some inanimate objects to life. As it's your first trials, what's your first impressions?

I suppose it boils down to ones mental attitude - we're all mental. If you participate to have fun, then surely you'll have fun whatever the outcome. Another thing is the people, trials folk are just ace.

Most definitely Gary, I'm having another go this weekend at ESTC, I just need to practice more and get used to the bike, the TY performs different to the Gas Gas in the way power is delivered, the Gas Gas is instant and constant whereas the TY there seems to be a lag and then all of a sudden hell breaks loose and I end up showing my sump guard to everyone. But I'll get used to it and have fun trying.

I can understand a sump breather venting to a carb on a four stroke, but gearboxes are usually vented to atmosphere. Although Gas Gas may have tried something different on this model. I would have thought that the pipe from the carb is probably an overflow from the float bowl and at some point on this bike prior to you owning it, has been connected to the gearbox vent (for what ever reason) If the buyer had weakened the mixture and a hot spot occurred and then the cylinder head cracked producing a hole and shrapnel, wouldn't the bike have immediately stopped before dumping coolant into the gearbox? As the only place the coolant can enter the gearbox is via the water pump seal. Or is it that he weakened the mixture causing the engine to run hot, which in turn caused the water pump seal to fail? As for testing the fuel, a simple way is dip a piece of paper in the fuel, allow the petrol to evaporate and if there is oil present, it will leave a film of oil on the paper and as most two stoke oil is coloured either red or blue will stain the paper.

If this was true why are they not covered in pink stuff? If the pipe from the gearbox breather was disconnected from the carb and both the carb and the gearbox breather were vented to atmosphere, then the mixture would become weak as the carb would be now drawing air in via the vent. Weak mixture = hotspots If you have photos of the changes, then I would tell him to take it up with the mechanic who cut and spliced the pipes.

I'd go for 1. waterpump seal failure 2. coolant drains into gearbox 3. engine boils dry and overheats 4. impellor threads melt and hot spot develops 5. cylinderhead o ring cracks allowing exhaust into cylinder head jacket 6. cylinder head cracks and shrapnel enters cylinder 7. piston hits piece of shrapnel and slams into cylinder head (mark on cylinder head opposite hole) 8. cylinder wall scored due to overheating. The initial failure could also have been caused by fan not kicking in, radiator cap not on properly or leaking or loss of coolant from another orifice/leak. Without a detailed analysis of all the components involved diagnosis of the original cause of failure can only be guesstimated.

Well it looks like I only have one direction to go in - upwards! Results are out, came bottom of the list scored 149 over 10 sections, is that a record by any chance?

I'd refer him to the manufacturer of the water pump, (hopefully you have the receipt), if the cause of the problem is due to a manufacturing fault then does not the vice cache lie with the manufacturer.

Non transferable means that the registration number cannot be transferred to a different vehicle/frame. If you used his frame and your engine, the engine number on the V5 wouldn't match, which may cause you a headache with the DVLA. There are ways around it both legally and illegally. Obviously you'll choose the legal route and if you purchased his frame and V5, when the process is completed your bike would end up with the non transferable reg number. If you registered your own frame, which I take it isn't registered, it would get an age related number.

Sorry the apologises should be to the observer on section 5, who was most helpful even after I nearly took his life, must be the concussion.

After completing my first trials at Leamington Victory today, I'm pleased to announce I'm no longer a trials virgin. How did I get on? Well firstly I enjoyed every minute of it, secondly I spent a lot of time picking myself and the bike up out of the mud and paddling along the bottom of a very muddy trench. This was my first time out on this bike and she ran absolutely perfect, to say we have now bonded is an understatement. I hope I provided some entertainment for the more advanced members and my apologises to the observer on section 3 who I nearly wiped out. Thanks to all those who gave me tips and advice, they really are a great bunch. I did opt out of section 6 and took all fives instead, I just knew I wouldn't make it up those muddy banks and had had enough of paddling along the ditch, which is where I would have ended up. If anyone reading this is thinking about taking up trials, all I can say is do it, you'll be glad you did and if I'm anything to go by, so will the spectators. Anyway here's a pic of the bike after our romantic bonding session, I'd like to say that the mud on the helmet is a result of a pre arranged safety test, but unfortunately it was because on one of my many offs, I ended up diving head first into the thankfully soft mud.

I'd start with having the carb ultrasonic cleaned and then fit new o rings etc, give the tank a good wash out with fresh fuel, clean air filter and then fit a clear (see through) inline filter to the fuel pipe.

It's an expression of surprise

Before choosing an engine capacity, I'd think about what type of bike to go for, modern, twinshock or pre65. I got into trials a coupe of years ago, brought a '97 gasgas jtx250, a great bike to start with if you want to go modern, anyway I've decided to go down the twinshock route and now have a TY175. Something else to consider is whether you want a road registered bike, should you want to take part in road trials or a bit of green laning, also insurance is easier if it's registered. Back to the cc's, a modern 125 will be fine for riding around with your son on his 85 and should see you alright for a while as a beginner, but you may get bored with it, so I'd go for a 250, as it'll take you anywhere you want to go. As for a twinshock, I picked the TY175 partly out of nostalgia (always wanted one as a youth), but also parts availability, size and weight. Pre65's require more fettling and can be expensive. Good luck with your choice whatever it is.

The quote was based on a bit of advice I received when first starting out. After giving me some encouragement and a few tips, an experienced member of the ESTC (Jim I think his name was) said to me "have confidence in your bike, it is capable of far more than you are" and "now go practice falling off". As joeninety has said don't worry about your bike to much, protect yourself first and worry about the bike after.

Also a beginner, after a nasty fall I invested in some raceface elbow pads which also protect the fore arm and some raceface knee pads which cover the knee (obviously) but also meet the top of my boots. I didn't feel restricted with them on, but felt a lot more confident. One of the things you have to master whilst learning to ride is how to fall off without hurting yourself, until that skill is attained, my advise is to wear protection.

Hi Mike, Sure will give you a shout I never used to know if anyone was going to be there and it is best if you're not on your own. Cheers Ian