stan wellback

check float height first. easy on concentric. drop float chamber off, empty it, hold it level whilst it fills back up. it should stop with float sitting level, just proud of chamber body. petrol level about 4-5 mm below rim. the new pilot system on the premier uses new jets with different numbering. the equivalent to the old number 25 will be about right. If I had ordered a carb for this i would have said 3.5 cut away. 106 needle jet. 25pilot (new equivalent). are you setting it up for trials? the phrase "flat spot on acceleration" made me wonder.

the vast majority don't even cough up the £10 annual subscription, just look at the lines of green meany names along the bottom!!! Andy should consider putting in annual reminders, seems only fair.

which gearbox is it?? how badly worn is your original? if its just worn plates that's a quick fix. if the basket and centre bearing are shot that's more costly. I put a NEB clutch on an AMC box, but you loose the shock absorber that is in the centre of the AMC/NORTON clutch. you may have a crank shocker so I don't matter. details,details...............

try www.sprocketsunlimited.com you could buy what they call a blank, this is a sprocket of the size you need but it only has a small hole in the middle. you can get have it machined to fit your original at your local machine shop. they have a big selection and wide knowledge!

Don't like being a kill joy but, folding foot rests have been mandatory for about 50 years for good reason. a folding kickstart is a good idea too.

the area you have high lighted in your photos is the welded ends of the extrusion that make your rim. put the rim band,valve and tyre on,blow it up. wait for the wife to go out. then put 10inches of water in your bath then carefully lower your wheel in the water without splashing the tiles. rotate wheel, looking for bubbles. mark leaks with lipstick or mascara pencil. now you know what you have to seal!

only at the scrapyard, was worth £5.

the cush drive faces are always rough.this will not cause lack of drive.even with a broken spring they cannot slip past each other. CHECK THE TAPER.

the ossa drives through a taper, behind the cush drive. pull it off and lap it back in with fine grinding paste. these tapers can a pig to get off, but if your's is loose you could have it easy. pullers are available, don't bodge it! changing the crank seal whilst in there would be sensible. the only woodruff key is in the fly wheel .

hi wayne73, the OWLS motor club is from the Sevenoaks area. we run club trials monthly and also belong to NKTC as mentioned above. our next club trial is just south of Sevenoaks on the 27th sept. you would be welcome, with or without bike.

Took clutch cover off last week to change clutch springs, and found the crank shockabsorber was past its prime. would have been noisy on sunday.

Does any have a foolproof way to remove the pilot bush from a mark one concentric? thanks,. Stan.

Falcon shocks list them as 13.4ins = 340mm. 12mm top and bottom. Get advice from your supplier on spring rate for your weight.

Hi, the shocks you have look like re-badged Betors. The end bushes have the tube through the middle,this means less rubber for the bush.when you tighten them up they go solid.take one shock off,re-mount it one end only.tighten the nut and try to move it. Bisby is quite right in greasing them, but the betor rubbers get stuck solid to outer ring they sit in. add the fact that the swing arm mounts are wider apart than the top mounts on the swm,[steel swing arm at least,not measured an ally one],the dampers have very restricted movement even before you add the springs. i use falcons which i keep well lubed.Their web site give good info on setting things up.

Fit the oversize linings onto the brake plate like normal,then turn the linings to size on a lathe. must be mounted in lathe chuck by the spindle/axle hole, not the outside of the brake plate.

He is still doing it, less than 24 hours from ordering online to post man delivering. brilliant service. thanks Martin.

Hi tyrefryer, your bike has the heavy weight road swing arm. it is a one piece, H shaped item.it is much deeper at the hinge end,adding to your chain problem, it also adds about 2 inches to your wheel base. look at Gordons bike, he has the later 2 piece arm of a so called light weight. they are not a straight swap. as for the 18 inch wheel versus the 19 inch, the profile of the 18 at 100% makes the O/D almost identical.also the 19 has 3/8 inch block depth compared to 1/2 inch on the 18. dont know what year the picture of Gordon was taken but i looks like an 18 inch wheel to me. gov 132 still had a 19 inch rim in it last year at the museum. a ratio of 27 engine revs to 1 rear wheel rev in 1st gear is a good starting point for trials gearing.but top speed is a bit restricted!!!

hello , this sunday,24th august , the Owls motor club from north Kent, are holding their fun day and wobbler trial in Horsmonden, Kent. there will be a wide range of ages,bikes,and abilities on show. open to all. follow the signs from Horsmonden village. it is non competitive so people will be happy to talk.

Hi Mudyman, this to me sounds like old and stale fuel in the carburetor. once it has started new fuel comes through from tank so it will start again easy. original carb is mark2 amal? no tickler so cannot flood fresh fuel in. choke lever is fuel enrichment type,so just lets in more stale fuel! if parking for more than a week or so, turn off fuel tap and let engine run carb dry. the next time you run it, carb gets full of fresher fuel from tank. if it has the plastic tank, i would empty that also, ethanol fuel not good for plastic. hope this works for you.

what is the actual problem, no spark or no lights, being an alpina? if no spark look at points,condenser,coil under tank and all wiring in between. if its electronic motoplat, suspect the coil under the tank. this month in old bike mart there is an article about villiers services being able to re-magnetise fly wheels, you seem to have contradicted this piece of journalism. regards stan.

Hi, the designation g80 means the motor left the factory as a 500, cs means competition with rear suspension. have you seen it ? could have started its life as a scrambler. as its almost 60 years old the chances of it being different from factory spec is quite high! A few pictures would help to identify things. as for riding,i enjoy both road and comp models. all parts available,with a good club scheme for the really rare ones. if the price is right for you, fill your boots and enjoy.

have you unscrewed the seal retainer?? this is chrome section on the top of the alloy leg.once this is off,soak the seals outside edge where they meet the alloy of the leg with penetrating fluid of some sort.now the leg can be pulled apart from the stantion.one has to be gripped tight in a vice or something similar whilst you pull the other bit. if they still have the rebound springs fitted it makes it harder to do as the springs soften the effort you put in. dont bash the top of the leg with anything, this area is quite fragile. clamp a bit of rod or tube in the spindle clamp and work from there. a bit of heat from a hot air gun can be useful. sae 20 should be okay, the amount will be up to you,you are riding it!

this topic really progressed quickly,4 pages in a little over a day. i agree with most respondents, you cant turn the clock back on the pre 65 scene,but there is plenty of events to ride an original bike. the yellow or wobbler route will always give you a ride, but wont stretch your ability. i ride my ajs around the south east and south midland centres, even doing the swcta two days. my bike pretty original, not one the trick ones,weighs in at about 290lb.i do choose carefully which events and routes but there is normally options for less experienced riders. a 1960 ajs would not be on jampots. 19inch tyres only have 3/8inch tread depth,compared to 1/2inch on 18inch tyres. diameter,therefore circumference is almost identical. so ttspud,will we see you at the next owls club trial?

well I pulled the clutch cover off over the weekend, nothing in the oil. no end float to talk of, and nothing loose or touching. what ever caused the noise is inside the box.The motor was getting rattly so it will be a proper rebuild I think. my workshop suffered flooding recently so the work bench is full. It will be some time before this gets sorted. will post what i find in due course. stan.

ahh, the SWM default reply. it has stopped this topic dead. I will speak to martin when i get it apart,i just thought some one out there might have an idea.