stan wellback

29mm is 1"1/8th in imperial, you need to be looking for british bike components. I dont suppose Dalesman made their own forks, a picture on here will help get them identified. unless they are in a really bad state, www.pittedforks.co.uk (philpots) can rebuild them.

changing primary ratios from 2.2 to 1 up to almost 2.9 to 1 would make starting VERY hard for the average leg. I also think it would be the clutch that suffers more than the gearbox. what is the number of engine revolutions to one wheel revolution in first gear? on my pre-unit singles I get as close to 27/1 as possible. it is always a compromise, going too small on the gearbox sprocket can wear out the swinging arm as well as the chain.

try Steve Sell, last known address at the bottom of page 3 of Ossa forum. he deals in parts and spares.

The shock mounts on an Ossa MAR are 12mm. you have the inner sleeve of an old shock corroded to the frame. hope you have not just painted it , it may need heat to remove it.

have a look at vintagetyres.com

change the rim to 18", then you will a better choice , including the MT43. The circumference is just about the same because 18" trials tyres have 90/100% profile. 19" will be lower.

try looking through the swm posts. rotax motor. the details are there somewhere.

The OWLS MOTOR CLUB running an extra trial to fill a vacant date this sunday. Its in weald village,just south of Sevenoaks,kent. Quite a low entry so far, so we could take some day entries if you are looking for a ride this weekend in the southeast. ACU permit so you will need an ACU licence. get back to me for more info!

when refitting the flywheel, be prepared to push the points open with a screwdriver or similar so as to not damage the heel of the points. points get ruined by the f/w centre being forced past the moving arm of the points.

look up tophat bushes nylon bushing etc on ebuy. lots of variants. measure your frame hole and brake pedal for sizes.

They work from forty year old records. Does your bike still have the high and wide handlebars they used in the 1970s, and still have the original nippon levers?? Is the front wheel the right way around?

looks like Cafe Racer to me.

should be like the pictures above then.

Is it metal or plastic tank. the fitting of them is different. my 180 is metal, but yours could have been altered.

Pull RH cover and pull out push rod, The shaft it is in should have a seal in the end,remove it and see if some one dropped the ball in the gap behind the seal. remove the plate on the clutch cover and remove the adjuster and then push the other half of the rod right through to see if the ball is in the middle. if not, find a ball same as rod diameter . (cycle shop?)

That makes it the 350 (310) then. hope you have got a strong grip.

Because the paint on the tank has no bearing on the capacity of the engine. Same with the frame number. The engine number would be more useful.

The lever at the motor end is much too far in . I suspect the ball bearing that sits between the pushrod halves is missing. It might be sitting behind the little seal in the out put shaft.

They snap like raw carrots, levers and perch's.

Loosen the yolks and compress a few times. re-tighten without twisting.Infact loosen everything,wheel,mudguard etc.

Become a proper paid up member and there is no limit. A whole £10 per annum.

damn, thats ugly!!

when I bought my first one brand new in 1974 it had individual split pins, not wire. I don't bother with anything, not had one come loose, but bound to get replies saying different now.

Does not seem a problem, the clip holds the needle, not the slide.The centre hole needs to be big enough for the cable, with its nipple, to pass through. If the carb is worn out, that is a different issue.

NGK BP5ES or CHAMPION N9YC.