b_42woody

In my experience, the carbon-look ABS bits are crap. To be specific, they really don't fit my 2015 Repsol. Using a rotary tool (Dremel), files and scissors designed to cut polycarbonate, it took me hours of work just to get the swing arm guards to 'kind of' fit. I had to remove big sections else other bits wouldn't have gone back on correctly (for example, the chain guide). The frame guards don't fit well but, unfortunately, no amount of cutting will improve that. The air box cover does not fit, period. I've spent an enormous amount of time with a heat gun and the previously-mentioned tools but I see no hope for that piece. The fork guards don't match the forks. The coil cover required modification for installation. I've not yet tried the case covers or the water pump cover. Based on my experience so far, I have little hope they will fit. The more I work on this stuff, the more likely it seems everything will all end up in the bin. These parts were rather expensive and I'm very disappointed. I've worked with vacuum-formed items in the past so I expected a lot of trimming. These parts require much more than that. My parts supplier has been an absolute gem throughout this whole ordeal. He has triple-checked part numbers, exchanged parts, patiently offered advice and studied photographs of my problems. He's willing to accept the parts back for refund, but I doubt I'll do that. Based on my experience, I would not recommend the carbon-look ABS guards.

Thanks, Gents. I appreciate the replies. I'm using 75 weight "Extra Light" Maxima MTL (Motorcycle Transmission Lube) in the Sherco. My Monty parts dealer isn't a fan of the Maxima and suggest the Silkolene Comp Gear. We can't get Elf gear oil in the US or I might try that. I tried ATF before I changed the clutch but I didn't like it. To me, the clutch seemed to have a sharper engagement. But, in all likelihood, it was the original clutch. Perhaps the ATF will work well with this new clutch. To be clear, I'm not unhappy with the Sherco clutch. It's manageable, but compared to the new fabulous 315 clutch, I'd like it to be better. Thanks for the link, trialsrfun. I skimmed through that document and it all makes a lot of sense to me. I'll probably get to work on that as soon as the snow starts to fly. I'll also try removing 2 springs/bolts. I use the clutch a lot - perhaps more than I should. I think it's a carryover from riding a 125 MX bike in Pennsylvania coal country (dense woods with LOTS of rocks and roots) for a number of years. If I find a source for dimpled plates, I'll post it here. Thanks again.

Well stated! I totally agree.

I have a Surflex clutch in my 2000 Sherco 2.0 with 50 hours of use. I thought it was great until I upgraded the clutch in my Montesa 315R with new fibers and dimpled steel plates. Wow ... it made a humongous difference and now the Sherco clutch pales in comparison. In all fairness, the stock 315 clutch is s***e, in my opinion. But, the new one is far better than the Surflex in my Sherco. So, has anybody found dimpled steel plates to fit a Sherco? If so, pray tell .... where did you get them and how do they work? The friction zone on my 315 clutch is broad, linear and predictable. I'm using Silkolene Comp gear oil in the 315 and Maxima MTL in the Sherco. Thanks, Woody

Does anybody know where to get the GRO Gear Extreme 75w in North America? Thanks.

I wore proper motorcycle trousers for a couple years. I didn't like the fit, the look/style or the colors. I now wear work trousers (mechanics' trousers) and a work shirt. The outfit is extremely durable, comfortable, inexpensive and simple without bright colors or big lettering. The trousers offer plenty of room in the legs and crotch - no tightness issues when riding. I highly doubt I'll ever go back to proper motorcycle clothing. Dickies brand works very well but other brands may be just as good.

Does anybody know where the Elf and GRO can be purchased in the U.S.? Thanks.

Could a lot of that knocking/rattle noise be the lash between the primary gear and the clutch basket gear?

Does / Did somebody make a low-compression head for the 315? S3 and VHM make very nice looking replacement heads with replaceable inserts, but it doesn't look like they make one for the 315. Adding base gaskets to lower compression might work, but you're also increasing squish clearance and altering port timing - two things, if taken too far, which can lead to unwanted results. Reducing compression by increasing combustion chamber will result in lower power, but will it have a major impact on riding? That's up to personal preference. My 2000 Sherco 2.0 gets the job done 'real good' on pump gas without knocking. Toni Bou would feel differently.

Thanks for the offer, crazybond700, but I think that's going to be quite a challenge. It's a 2015 4RT Repsol. There are shed loads of bike photos on the internet, but I know of only 2 places to see the orange/black/white camo rim tape; one is on the Ryan Young site and the other is in the new S3 catalog. Feel free to back away from your offer - it sounds like a lot of work to me!

I run a 9-44 on my 2000 Sherco 2.0 and love it. I'd say I'm an advanced beginner or possibly an intermediate rider preferring tight technical sections (no-stop rules). Some say 9-42 and some say 9-43 for the new 4RT. Knowing my history, should I get the 9-43 instead of the 9-42? This is my first 4T trials bike and I haven't ridden it yet. Thanks.

My friend fell on his right side and pinned the throttle wide open. The engine seized before he got to it. Fortunately, it was only a piston, rings and cylinder - it loosened up when it cooled and he didn't need to split the case. A lanyard kill switch is no guarantee a seizure won't happen - 2T engines can run away under certain circumstances even if the ignition is cut. The idea is to kill the engine before the throttle gets pinned open. I have 2 bikes; one with and one without the lanyard. I've fallen off both without incident. But, I feel much more comfortable riding with the lanyard. Knowing I have that added level of protection, I'm more willing to ride harder. The elastic on my lanyard is dead - there's very little stretch left so I don't worry about being hit in the eye (or worse). I've ridden 40 hours since fitting the lanyard kill switch. The magnet is powerful and has never simply fallen off. That seems like a near impossibility to me. I ride a lot of logs and rock - lots of up and down movement and hard landings. Mine is on the left. I'll fit a lanyard to my other bike, shortly, and I'll fit one on my new 4RT. The only inconvenience I find with the lanyard is the inability to touch my neck or face while riding (wipe sweat, remove mud/insects).

Has anybody fit the orange, black and white S3 camo rim stickers to their Repsol? If so, would you be willing to share a photo or two? I'm not a hunter or a member of the military. In fact, I generally don't fancy camo. But, these might look sharp since they have all three main Repsol colors. Thanks.

I took delivery of my 4RT last weekend. Although this sticker is on the bike, I asked the dealer about the warranty, anyway. He scrolled through some documents and informed me no warranty is offered on Race models. I haven't ridden it yet and I haven't started taking it apart - I'm enjoying looking at and studying it in my living room (and probably will for the next couple months). The only thing I've found wrong, so far, is the fork legs aren't the same height in the triple clamp - one is about 1mm higher than the other.

My friend has an 06 Repsol and he absolutely loves it. I rode it and now I do, too. In fact, I like it so much I'm trying to find one of any year. It seems the replies above are suggesting the new ones are not as good as the older ones. Have I interpreted this correctly? Thanks.

I just purchased the Leonelli magnetic lanyard. It appears to be virtually identical to the Apico unit including the short wire issue, unfortunately. I don't fancy extending the wires - I'd rather replace them. It looks as if the switch can be disassembled - soft silicone (?) sealant under the bar mount seems to be holding it together. Has anybody tried to disassemble one of these units? If so, can I solder new wires to the contacts? Thanks, Woody.

I'm pretty bad a double blips but I'm able to get over things while maintaining control and without a bunch of speed or drama. From my experience, Rob's comments are dead-on. Check out this video regarding bunny hops. I think it contains many double blip elements. Perhaps an expert could comment on this. Mags: Any advice on choosing a trials pushy? Seems like there are lots of choices (different wheel sizes, brakes, etc). Thanks.

ktm39; Thanks for the All Balls bearing information. I'm glad I didn't buy one. I'll crack open my billfold for Ryan Young and get OEM parts. Question - How did you press out the old bearing? I have a hydraulic press at my disposal. Will that do the job or does it take something special? Thanks. Slightly off topic, but along the same line ...... can the upper shock bearing be replaced? I have a lot of wear on that one, too.

I have a 2011 2.9 and my lower shock bearing needs to be replaced, too. I've never done the job before. I found this. Has anybody tried this brand for this application? http://www.allballsracing.com/29-5065.html The kit doesn't include the spacers, so I assume they can be reused without issue. I've used All Balls Racing products on trail bikes before and don't recall any particular problems.

I just stared using original formula Dumonde Tech bicycle chain lube (http://www.dumondetech.com/products/bicycle-2/)%C2'> my non-O-ring trails bike chain. I've used this lube on my cyclocross and mountain bikes for years with great results. It seems to be working well on the trials bike. Dumonde Tech also make a motorcycle-specific formula called BHP Chain Oil. I plan to try that, next.

+1 for Peet. Highly recommended. I've been using mine for years with great results. Absolutely no problems with leather.

Thanks for all the replies! No, the piston does not rattle. In fact, the engine is quiet. I called Ryan Young for advice. Based on his personal experience, 0.040 inch ring end gap seems to be the limit. Mine were 0.045 and 0.047 inches. I ordered a new ring set from Ryan and checked the end gap after a light cylinder hone. The new ring end gap is 0.012 inches for both. I called Ryan to make sure this isn't too tight. He said it's perfect. Here's what I wonder ..... why did the rings wear so dramatically? I don't think I've ever seen this kind of wear on rings ... especially with the bore and piston looking so good. Thoughts? Here's why I took the top end off ... The cylinder base gasket blew out on the outside edge of the back transfer port (where the case halves meet). This, too, is strange to me. I've never had a cylinder base gasket blow out. The original base gasket was 0.2mm thick. Ryan sold me a 0.4mm base gasket and told me to not worry about squish clearance. Before I took the cylinder off, I measured the squish clearance with a dirty piston and a clean head. It was 0.9mm. Now, with the 0.4mm base gasket and a clean piston and head, the squish clearance is 1.1mm. I assume this is safe.

What is the ring end gap wear limit on a 2011 Sherco 2.9? My piston and cylinder look quite good but I have the following approximate ring end gaps: Lower Ring 0.045 inches (1.143mm) Upper Ring 0.047 inches (1.194mm) These gaps were measured with the rings positioned about 10mm from the top of the bore. My piston-to-bore clearance is about 0.003 inches (0.076mm) Thank you.