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If you don’t ding the stanchions you should get years out of a set of seals. You need to do a careful visual of the tubes. If you have a nick in the tube no seal will last very long.
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I’ve used PVC pipe cut to length with great success (no bunged seals). You have to be careful of the protruding lip on the wipers. I usually take a dremel to the inside edge to chamfer the inner edge of the PVC pipe to clear the wiper lip.
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Don’t mix coolant. Use one of the premixed coolants based on propylene glycol like Engine Ice or Silcolene Pro-Cool. Non-toxic and easier on your cases than tap water.
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The market for used 200s is really good.
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Certainly looks like a tooth to me and I agree that looks like a gear dog to me too.
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Does look like the CDI moved so you can get to the choke and gas tap. Unlike the 2018.
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Carbon fiber reeds will make a world of difference. I like the Moto Tassani reeds. They stopped selling ones specifically for Beta but you can use the housing for a ktm65 and get the medium reeds and the bike will lose no top yet grunt like a freight locomotive. When I get home I’ll look up part numbers.
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If the octane is sufficient there’s really no difference other than residues. I used to run 93 pump gas all the time and the bike ran fine except once in a while I’d get a bad batch and the bike would run awful. After one particularly nasty crash from bad fuel I just said the hell with it and switched to VP C-12. The main advantage is consistancy. The engine always runs the same. No aging issues with fuel and no funky residues in the carb. Worth the money to me.
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Mine hasn’t swelled but I’m running VP with no ethanol. Then again I wouldn’t pass up free bling if they throw it my way.
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When you say revved out under load are you talking about a short burst or high speed road/fireroad/trail riding? The Keihin fitted to Betas is unable to supply sufficient fuel to keep the 300s float bowl supplied at full blat. Since most trials bikes aren’t ridden that way, prolonged full throttle, it usually doesn’t show up but put in a full throttle blast down the road and a 300 will start burbling and coughing from fuel starvation. Shocked the hell out of me the first time it happened. Thought I blew it up! All my large Betas with Keihins have done this.
If it’s just short bursts then a disassemble and clean of the carb is a good idea. There is another possibility and that is you’re just not used to the power delivery of a trials bike which has instant power off the bottom, a healthy mid range and an early sign off.
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I’d say this went south very fast but it pretty much started there.
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You mean a circle, er, discussion?
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When I got off my beloved 2008 Rev3 onto the 2013 EVO I was surprised at the difference in finding traction in the slippery stuff. The EVO just tracked better, climbed better and felt like an all around more planted ride. What's interesting is the difference between my 2013 and 2018 EVOs is much smaller and I can happily hop on the 2013 without any change to my riding. When I tried to ride my '08 I got off thinking, "How the hell did I ever ride this thing?"
The answer is, of course, badly but that's more my lack of ability. But the EVO is worlds better without losing that Beta feel.
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White frame and fenders, sooo pretty. Wish my 2018 still had the white frame.
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"Hey you", works pretty well. Mostly because we are all too old now to remember names and we all think we know more than anybody else. ?
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Get a long thin flat blade screwdriver. Actually buy a couple because you’ll lose them. Grind the end round. Voila! Beta mixture adjusting tool.
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Yeah that was Don Sweet’s suggestion but I still want the surety of moving neutral to somewhere it won’t interfere with section riding if it’s possible. I do think it’s funny after all that talk about no transmission or clutch issues you admit you had springs made and are just now realizing the stepped washers can be flipped to change preload.
By design the gear selector has a restoring force which indexes the drum. This means the mechanism is supposed to chase the drum into the proper position as the likelyhood of indexing the drum to exactly the correct position using just the lever is pretty small. This fits well with the idea that around the neutral half notch there is insufficient restoring force if the throw of the mechanism doesn’t rotate the drum into the full gear engagement. It also means that just tapping the shift lever or even an impact acting on the weight of the lever may be sufficient to pop the indexing cam to the neutral position.
I have noticed the majority of times the bike has popped into neutral has been after an impact or bounce on the suspension. I think the revised shift cam Beta now uses is to address the throw of the restoring force which is reduced by the too large bearing used for the indexing arm. The actual force and indexing location remain the same. What they should have done is made the notch deeper in first and second gear but the indexing pins don’t allow that modification.
In a few years we’ll all be on electric bikes anyway and this will be moot.
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Without taking apart a whole pile of bikes to analyze the hardware it’s, at best, a guess. Slightly mis-machined parts can have a huge effect on operation of the shift mechanism. If you look at any of my past posts you can see I’m pretty quick to admit when I’ve got it wrong. I won’t say something actually works until it’s in my machine and proved itself by not failing in some spectacular way. It’s also why I post what I’m doing here. Gives you guys a chance to pee on it in case there’s some obvious thing I missed.
Engineering is the science of, “Whoa! Didn’t see that coming.”
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I’m old enough to admit American idiom is starting to escape even me. By solder you mean the melty metal for plumbing and circuit assembly? The only use I know of soder is a product name soderwick. Then again an online dictionary says soder is an archaic form of solder so maybe the pronunciation just stuck. All I really know is tin based solder sucks. Especially to rework.
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Waiting to see Jordi’s facebook post on TRS branded beer goggles.?
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That’s ****** with a K to you. ?
... and really isn’t that what any forum is until the weather warms up again? ?
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Ah a straight up solopsist viewpoint. I’ve ridden Betas since ‘89. I’ve never had a stator fail but I’ve seen friend’s bikes miraculously cured by a stator rewind. I’ve never had a cracked frame but Beta replaced all frames in ‘09 for free so there may have been a problem. Beta has changed the clutch assembly several times over the last few years so there may be something to that. This year there’s a new shift cam. Seems like a lot of expense for no issue doesn’t it?
I’m glad your bikes have been trouble free. Mine have been mostly trouble free. When they haven’t I fix them and share the results. I’m curious why you seem to have an issue with that?
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