dan williams

A lot of the "do-gooders" are the ones who have been putting on events for years and gone the extra mile to obtain land use permissions. Unfortunately they've also watched the land they've worked so hard to maintain access to eaten away year by year by the thoughtless and arrogant. Hey if you're on your own land great. Strap a Pratt and Whitney turbofan on that thing and have at it but if you're doing your part to destroy the sport by losing land access you're an ass. End of story.

The main difference is your friends will ask, "Hey, is that an Akropovic pipe? What's the difference?" Oh yeah, the wallet will be lighter.

See my post on clutch modification. http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/index....mp;#entry138860

The spark plug that lit this was a woman who left her kid in the care of a neighbor who put junior on an ATV with the result being fatal. It's never ceases to amaze me how suddenly these people become crusaders for "good parenting" which is how she phrased it. Better to blame the vehicle then accept responsibility. Unfortunately the end result would be to destroy a family activity enjoyed by many parents and children. In the end though it's important to realize that the main reason for laws such as this is not to protect children or the environment but to provide private playgrounds for those that live near these public areas. Massachusetts is rife with horse farms and they are all adjacent to public forests. The power wielded by these people is astounding. Of all the things taxed by the state one of the few things exempt from tax is a horse. No registration fees, no helmet laws, no poop bags on the back of the animal to keep trails clean for other users and yet millions are spent on infrastructure to please the equestrians. Just like the yacht clubs on state land that it recently came out owed the state hundreds of thousands of dollars in unpaid fees. I think it's time to start passing laws to limit the influence of these groups and make them pay their fair share.

See my threads on clutch modification and ignition modification. Also Vforce reeds http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/index....showtopic=18516 http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/index....st&p=138860 OH yeah also be advised that the Keihin tends to be prone to water in the pilot jet orifaces in the carb body. If the bikes starts running "not as sparky" as usual it's worth pulling the beastie out and blowing out the carb with compressed air as the surface tension will keep it from evaporating.

Mourn the loss but celebrate the life. God speed Mr. Clark.

We're sorely lacking an update here.

I have to admit I didn't understand why Virginians were so hard core in the civil war until I drove through on the way to the TTC world round. It's stunningly beautiful down there. If I thought some yankee was gonna come down and turn it into Massachusetts I'd shoot first and ask questions later too.

On a side note be aware of what's on the gloves. I learned that the hard way setting up an event. After a few hours of moving slimy logs and rocks around I had a hand slip off the bars from contaminated gloves. All I can say is a one handed full throttle wheelie is way beyond my ability and it's bad when you hear both knees simultaneously make a loud pop.

I find that after my gloves get soaked with sweat they bunch up and rip off the callouses. I try to carry several sets of gloves to keep a dry set on as well as put antiperspirant on my hands before an event. I remember reading somewhere that was an old desert racer trick from years back. As for the cost I use the cheapo gloves from Home Depot and find they work just as well as the big bucks.

Looking at the picture it doesn't look legit. Reserve of 600 and I don't think that's a 2001. Also the only item for sale from that seller. Very suspicious.

Yeah had one of those at the last event when I caught the end of the new bars in a chain link fence on the loop.

This is also from their website, "Designed for modern aluminum, cast iron, copper, brass and bronze systems." Caveat emptor Engine ice specifically mentions magnesium

Maybe but your buddies won't go "Oooohhhhh" over a new set of bars.

Interesting that they don't mention magnesium.

There's little compression braking in a two stroke. In a four stroke the engine has two strokes where it's pumping air using only the stored energy of the flywheel inertia. On the two stroke the energy removed from the flywheel is stored by the compression of the mixture and released again on the power stroke so even if the engine doesn't fire the mixture to add energy to the system there is much less rotational energy absorbed by the act of moving air around. If you rode a four stroke trials bike you'd feel right at home.

My CanAm used to do that because the ignition was hooked up wrong. Think about it, from the perspective of the porting/carb there is no difference whether the engine is running forward or backward. The only difference is the ignition should fire before the piston hits TDC (top dead center) to make maximum power but if the timing is close to TDC or the ignition is roughly symmetric around TDC then the engine will run just fine backwards. For example if a points ignition opens 15 degrees before TDC and then closes the points 15 degrees after TDC then the timing will look exactly the same with the engine running in the other direction. I don't think there is a diode that will prevent the bike from running in the opposite direction as the poles of the magnets in the magneto alternate. I think what you are thinking of is a shunt voltage regulator. A diode will not turn on and pass current until it sees a certain forward voltage across the diode. For a silicon diode this is ~.6 volts. For the old selenium diodes it's closer to 1V so if you stack 6 selenium diodes across the lighting/ignition/charging system any voltage over 6V will get shunted across the diode to ground effectively limiting the voltage to 6V. A cheap and effective solution and very common in older ignition systems.

Might want to ask this in the GasGas forum as posting this here is like waking into a kennel with a pork chop tied around your neck. Having said that look for the usual stuff with any newer bike like frame fractures near the high stress areas like the head stock and any fractures in the engine cases from missed starts. Nicks in fork tubes, funny engine noises, oddness in the suspension. Barring that this is about the time that GasGas started to really improve their reliability and it does look in pretty decent shape

Tough to tell. I've got Vforce reeds on the bike as well and they change the power considerably more then the pipe does. Curiously enough the Beta Vforce reeds fit the Sherco so I guess it's OK I post here As far as engine characteristics I don't think the pipe makes a significant difference. But the reeds are a great improvement. I won't ride without them now. I'd love to try them on a Sherco as the power seems a little peaky on my friends 06 and I suspect the Vforce would smooth it out like it did the Beta. EDIT: I'm getting spacy. I just re-read this and realized I have the Akropovic and not the S3. I was thinking of getting the S3 but got the Akropovic with the new bike. I think I'm getting senile. Oh well, titanium is titanium right?

I've got one on the Beta and it dissipates heat alright. Right into the pant leg. Yeow is that thing hot.

Seriously for the time it takes to crack open a case and change bearings and seals overkill sounds like a good thing. Also trying to save a few bucks (quid? bob?) seems kind of silly when you're going to be spending hours doing the job. I'd rather spend twice as much on NASA qualified seals and bearings to not have to do it twice. For the manufacturer who may save $20 per bike not using super high tech seals adds up to a hefty sum at the end of the year. To an individual it's chump change.

Mine should arrive tomorrow or the next day. I'll post my impression after the weekend.

I can't see any picture.

Hunting at idle usually indicates a slightly lean condition. Disassemble and blow out the carb passages with compressed air. Also if there was a large change in conditions then the jetting can be slightly off. Usually this just an issue when the temperature changes dramatically like between winter and summer. While you've got the carb apart make sure your floats aren't binding on the bowl gasket and are set at the correct height.

Er, the plug heat range doesn't change the engine temperature unless the plug is so hot that it causes pre-ignition. The heat range is just the amount of heat that is conducted away from the tip of the plug. It has to be hot enough to burn off contaminants that can short out the electrodes and cold enough to not ignite the mixture before the spark. Your engine must have been well into a sustained pre-ignition condition for a considerable amount of time to hole a valve. I'll bet you were going like a bat outta hell when it failed. Lucky it didn't stick a piston. For the record I NEVER let the parts guy tell me what the equivalent plug is. I always look it up myself and if I have to change to a different plug I always take it out and read it after 10-15 minutes while keeping a very close ear on my engine.