miner

Can’t change the o-rings? To be fair the KTM ones aren’t serviceable...

What does the correct tension look like? Never run one of these before (only scramblers with idler pulley near front sprocket) and thinking I’ve set mine a bit slack...

As above.... asked the bike shop to look at my exhaust... this must’ve slipped their mind unless they didn’t want the hassle of spares/snapping studs. Asked them to look at the front pipe as it’s got soot build up and sometimes I think it sounds puttery up front, other times I wonder if that’s just how it sounds. They’ve obviously only pulled the mid and rear pipes though. I’ve not pulled it (scared of snapping the studs in the head - experience warns me this is likely!) and also that I don’t have any soft spares (gaskets/o-rings).... not tried cleaning it up yet either but will.... just wanted to get your experience on this. - Do the pipes go rotten? Or is it just a leak at the seal? - What is the seal? Viton or copper o-ring? Or other? - Success rate on the studs coming out without snapping? Let me know about the above... pics below for info. Cheers.

As above.... do such beasts exist?! Mine is a 2007 250 TXT Pro.... we get big temperature swings in the UAE so interested in jetting, going home soon too so can order some spares. Service manual self explanatory... googled lots, found nothing. ?

Assume these are similar / same for all? Serviceable? Or bin them and replace? I noticed what I thought was fuel from the overflow.... then I noticed it dripping (into the pulser coil as well - nice!)... pushed it in and it stopped.... put it on reserve and it started dribbling out. Let me know about the above.... going home in a couple of weeks, can get spares by pony express. Cheers.

What he said.... kicking over a Gas Gas is like the Robin Williams sketch about golf shots are called strokes... because every time you kick it over over and it doesn't start you feel like you are going to die! There is a knack to them as it is only a 1/4 turn gear, also sensitive to fuel and plug issues (blocked/dirty carb / worn plug) if you get an older one you'll be out in the middle of nowhere thinking about actually kicking it over and setting it on fire.... gets better if you clean the carb and change the plug. This is my experience as a newcomer to an older GG, other experiences may differ but they can be a bit fickle sometimes.

Finding this myself for the first time.... looks like a simple system, line it all up and bosh... still spent ages checking along the chain and across the axle.... will check again in the morning. Definitely a footery arrangement!

How to ride observed trials - Big lad on the Sherco seems to be doing ok....hope for me yet!

Watched it this morning... as a trials beginner it was an eye opener, felt for him, looked tough. The event in general reminded me of the Robin Williams sketch about Golf....

Got the wheel back.... 10psi last night.... 10psi today.... just dropped it down to 5psi to check we're all good then I'll sling it back in the bike. Just need to figure out the eccentric adjuster now....

Or tubliss...

Back in the shop for rework... to be fair they took it no issues. Get it back in a couple of days once they re-seal it.

Wheel back from the shop.... flat overnight again! Leaking at two of the spokes, one quite badly... they'd sent me a video of the valve in the water to show it was ok as well.... clearly not looked that hard for the rest though. It's going back again... but any suggestions on how to rectify?

Ordered one anyway.... found a few decent reviews online. Will definitely be better than an old Wulfsport MX helmet...

Any more on this helmet? Thinking about ordering one myself from UK along with new tyres for my track bike.... cheers.

I'm a relative noob, I've had my bike little over a year but probably only had six months use out it due to various things (work/boring adult stuff and breaking my hand)... I bought a 2007 GG TXT Pro 250 as my first bike, I was looking for a trials bike, not many for sale out here.... this one was right place, right time, right sale through the local offroad group... seller was punting it to fund the track conversion of his R1, I also do trackdays so the bond was made. Got a good bike, made a new friend. I've got 200 and 300 EXC KTMs (old and new) as I like two strokes, no Graham Jarvis though, not even after a stroke. Was worried it would be too much but its easy to lug around, however if you are tired (like most bikes) it can bite you / catch you out... but like the guys said above, it'll teach you fine control (or at least keep you on your toes). If its clean you can always punt it if you cant get on with it.

Maybe.... main mechanic is co-owner and pretty handy but he's recently brought a few guys in... couple of my mates have got tyre dollys but taking it back on principle.

Pirelli MT43

New rim tape for rebuild... something as simple as the placement?

You mean it's for more than throwing dirty washing in these days? Not tried it, might give it a go actually... tyre shops usually have a trough for that. Bath / trough? Same same

There's varying trains of thought on this.... for sandy conditions though, I wouldn't use the dry lube (PTFE based) as it traps the dirt and turns to grinding paste. KTM recommend not using any in sandy conditions... I use the Motrex off-road lube after washing as it's synthetic oil based and the dirt/sand dries it and it just falls off. Others use a spray of WD40 to get rid of the water and prevent flash rusting... I always thought it was bad for chains, apparently not? Light oil/motor oil also used as it just flings off.

As above.... anything obvious to check? Following on from my thread about a cracked rear rim on the Gas Gas sub-forum, my wheel has been rebuilt but it's not holding pressure. When I went to pick it up the tyre was pumped up to 17psi to set the bead on the rim, so I dropped it to 5psi when I went to take it for a short run to check everything, seemed ok. However it's not holding pressure, been checking it and its going flat within a few hours. Rim is going back to the shop but as above... anything obvious? Checked the tyre, edges of the rim and nipped up the valve... anything else?

I've ended up with these through a mix up after being offered them in the first place, pushing for dunlop and latterly agreeing I'd take michelins at nearly twice the price, turned up to pick my bike up with repaired and exhaust and rebuilt rear rim and they were already on the bike... interested to see how they feel vs the 10yr old OE Michelins. Tread pattern looks like it will be good for the heavier loamy ground out the back of where we live, blocks not as dense as the OE Michelins so doubt they will be as good on hard/tricky stuff... softer then the old tyres that went in the bin at least. Do look like they should be on an old twinshock though.... After finding this thread and a few others was turned off them.... now stuck with them, so lets see how we get on with them. I'm only a novice rider so maybe not make much odds?

Case closed... took it to trusted local bike shop who cut and re-welded it to straighten it up... never looked better.

Well after some time including a lengthy wait for a new rim.... got the bike back with new rear rim (inc respoke, new rim tape) and new tyres front and back.... took it for a quick run last week. Got a silly question.... is it normal of these bikes (tubeless rear trials rims) to go flat from one weekend to the other (5psi was 0psi today) because of the sealing arrangements (rim tape over spoke ends)? Or should I be checking it out / taking it back to the shop?