miner

Rust on the flywheel... check my previous thread.

How do trials boots stack up size wise vs shoe size / other boot size? Some Context: - Most Shoes / Trainers: UK 9 (8.5W really...) - also did they swap the euro charts? 43 = 9 still? - Sidi Road/Race - 10.5/44.5 - A* Road/Race - 9/43 - A* Enduro (T10) - 10.5/44.5 - Wulfsport - 10 Mail order could be tricky... carrying back fairly bulky...

Cheers.... look like they’re worth a punt. All dry and dusty here... but no stranger to the saddle soap or the dubbin. Was looking at pics, reviews and a video on revzilla... looked like a decent boot.

Any more views on the Forma Boulders? Just saw an ad for Forma boots on one of the local bike shop’s bookface page... look the part. Any use? All dry riding here...????

Bike received back today.... case closed. Shop did a much better job of lacing it, fair play to Clayton he took it back and rectified it, also held it to ensure it was sealing properly. Can’t fault him for that. Thanks for your inputs guys... if mrs wont go out this weekend (spares don’t arrive) I’ve got the head kit to fit on my 300, towing electrics to fit to the Pajero... or I can now also do some or sack it all and get out and ride the GG.... quite excited actually.

Whole bike... sent the gaffer some pics and vids, it’s going back this weekend to be re-laced. Old chain guard was mullered so it wasn’t dragging, now is with replacement parts. Bike shop is a bit over an hour away... probably do it Saturday so can go off-road at the same time. ?

It’s definitely out of true, been out and checked and checked.... took some advice, a couple of other checks. Definiately not right. For all it’s dragging a bit across 120deg I’ve have it outside running on the paddock stand, it’s definitely not square you can feel/see it. Could explain why it wouldn’t hold pressure... another trip to the shop?! Or adjust at home and have to re-seal? My mate has a tyre changing machine, need to square him up for the S3 head for the 300EXC... maybe two birds one stone. Or take the bikes out Saturday and drop this wonky wheel back in the shop. Checked all the other bits I did half cut... all ok apart from the rim and trying to bleed the rear brake... might try the calliper held high again. ?

Got it on and chain set, snails set even.... I’ve chalked the rim where it’s fouling and it’s about 120 degree segment. Would that be alignment of the wheel? Or straightness / trueness of the hub from re-lacing?

Just checked again now I’m not in a hurry to get back in to watch the Moto GP.... it is upside down.... Bollocks!? Was looking at it thinking something wasn’t right but the penny hadn’t dropped. Will swap it tomorrow.... thanks for that. ??‍♂️ Wheel is dragging hard on the chain guard.... anyone had any issues relating to tyre selection? Or nobody else is running the tyres from an old Bultaco twinshock on a modern GG?

Thanks for that... I’ll try that methodology for tensioning. Had me panicking there.... just been to check.... its the tensioner arm itself, I hadn’t backed it off enough after I’d minstankely tightened it up (never drink and spanner :)), just backed it off a bit more and its siting back better now. Good spot. The guide block is a different block, looks like a newer part... it’s not the same as the one that came off the old one with the plate. Keen eye though, cheers.

My rear one went and split up the middle around 6”, mixture of corrosion and fatigue.... maybe the slow puncture leading to it going flat on the run and cracking it properly. No hope for Morado... massive back order, not sure of other options as I just wanted a new rim. GG UK had one on the shelf.

Some pics of the old guard for info.... GG Chain Guard Used to KTMs and Honda machinery... this GG has been an eye opener for sure!

Ha ha! Was asking myself the same questions.... took some advice from a trusted source (father in law’s an ex-mechanic and club racer) and set the cams even as that’s where I’d set before. Deffo more the shape of that MT43, will take it a spin tomorrow to check it out. Cheers.

Another thread on top of the ones I’ve been googling.... bike is back together and as clean as it’ll never be again.... finding the setting of the chain adjusters a bit confusing, not used to snail cams yet and a little unsure about the tension/alignment on the GG. Is it normal / expected to end up 4 notches out? Some points to consider: Chain tension is coming what looks to be ok at 10 from the end (pointy end - thumb’s worth of gap and some slack in the arm). Setting other cam to 10 then turning the tyre is completely dragging on the new chain guard (top of swingarm on - more on this below). Playing around with spinning the wheel to get it to align itself sets it at 6 notches from the end (some fouling but only at a 30deg window) The Pirelli MT43 I ended up with (long story on another post) is catching the new chain guard, wasn’t an issue before as the MT43 had worn down the two bosses where the screws go through to hold the top section on. Option to dress it with a file. Rear rim was replaced in a reputable bike shop.... new rim, spokes, same hub. Assumed ok. Tension arm - was messing about with the tension when I stripped the swingarm... slackened it back off a bit to what feels right and aligns correctly. Queries: Snail cam marks - not absolute but should align or be within X-notches? Tyre catching - partly the shape/size of the tyre - some excentricity possible due to manufacture? Rear rim - if laced up correctly should be pretty square? Thoughts and advice welcome.... used to screwed adjusters and still getting to grips with snail cams and the tensioner arm on these bikes.

Yep and the exhaust.... sealing is crap on the top. Apart from the clay on the wheels its only ever dusty, it doesn't take much spraying.... the air it displaces shifts most of the dust.

Just put the last of my Motul Mocool in my GG, found this thread useful as its not in the manual...

To be fair that was my understanding of it....

I was having a think about this over the weekend.... is the play mostly in the rose joints on the shock? Or is it because the bushes on mine have disintegrated over time?

Anyway.... puller came in the post from GG UK eventually yesterday.... flywheel certainly came off with a pop and when the ball bearing dropped so did my a*** a little... woodruff key still there, as you were! Cleaned it all up, including getting all the crud off the flywheel with some 400 grit paper, squeaking noise gone... noticed a few odd things regarding the ignition which I've posted on the ongoing ignition thread. Need a new gasket, just boxed it up for now. Only the carb and linkage to clean up and it's ready for reassembly, including new exhaust joints. Only set out to change the chain slider.... bike currently in bits.

Genuinely thanks for that... I was annoyed more at not getting a straight answer.... once or twice, bit of forum banter, etc... no issues, copped and dished plenty of it out... but one step beyond in the end. It I wanted trolled I'd have posted on The Rev Counter... expected better from a house elf Was a little concerned I'd missed something major and was at risk of taking good care of the rest of it but finished it off but chucking a grenade in at the end. Agree with your points, all makes sense... mostly experienced with Enduro/Road bikes and careful with the pressure washer... not much to cover up the innards of the trials bike though. Not so sure about the american chat though.... I've got some of my best Jockanese in response to that!

Cheers for that... stopped short of locking the mole grips on it and couldn't get enough purchase on it locking the nuts to crack it off.... was able to clean up everything in there without taking it off but it definitely would have been easier with it out of the way. Put the cover back without the gasket for now as it was falling to pieces. Stumbled on some chats last night about the venting of the casing which I found interesting... saw some stories about people sealing the casing but running a breather up behind the tank. Others leaving a gap to allow air/water to escape which I couldn't quite get my head round till I saw the amount of water marks coming down from the pulsar coil gaiter.... looks like these are prone to letting water in? Could this be why there's a chunk out the gasket at 5'o-clock? Is it worth sealing this up with silicone? Other point I read was about pressure build-up due to air windage inside the compartment.... flywheel is massive compared to a 2T Kokusan MX/EXC flywheel and proportionally a lot more (almost all) of the space taken up so I guess there could be something in this (can be fatal for turbomachinery... not sure about a wee 2T engine), MX/EXC there's a lot of air gap for the weight to spin in so no issues I guess. Is this a thing? Or just something I stumbled across to be ignored?

Stator Removal How do you get the stator and pick up coil off? Its been a long day.... but don’t have a small enough spanner as get the flats on that LHS boss on the coil. Can you lock it up with a couple of nuts and screw it out?

Answer the point or butt out... not killed a dirt bike in 10yrs but my experience is more with closed airbox road bikes so I may have missed something.... please enlighten me and Forrest will give you one of his chocolates....

Found part of the gasket is missing on the 5-o'clock position.... there's the source of the dust ingress....

What's the issue with starting after pressure washing? Wet filter? Not killed a bike yet....