beamish owners club

Thanks Charlie, I am sure there will be a queue for the Cub frames. I am looking for an HT5 myself at the moment and was hoping for a frame for my B40 as I already have a Cub with a 531 frame.

If you look at the topic 'New Twinshock Frame for BSA Unit singles' you will see from the second page on that a discussion about Pre-65 eligibility has developed - a little off track from the subject heading but very interesting. So if you want to join in or follow the discussion you need to go to that topic! P.S. Does anyone know how to contact Paul Jackson, Mick Mills or John Burgess? All of whom I am told make or modify frames.

I have brand new hubs on my Beamish and new EBC shoes - it wants 3 days written notice before it will stop! I may try the original shoes and avoid water....!

I stand corrected Grib - where can they best be sourced?

Me thinks I stirred up a hornet's nest here! Very interesting and informative discussion fellas. The title of the posts does not really show others where this discussion has led which is a shame. I was/am looking for a custom frame for my B40. Very probably oil in the frame and definitely not eligible for the pre-65 but OK for club twinshock events and hopefully a thing of beauty! Armed with your good advice, I won't bin the forks on my C15 for Fantic ones and won't put a Montesa swing arm and rear wheel in it. I very much doubt that I will ever get to the Scottish pre-65 but I shall make sure my C15 would qualify. Back to the original matter, I am still looking for a 'dogs nuts' frame builder for my B40 project! Cheers, Jim P.S. Anyone know of an HT5 or HT3 for sale?

Well I must show the wife this forum - it's not just me after all! I have 3 on the go and 2 virtually finished just needing final touches. I have a 265cc Tiger Cub in a hand built frame, took it out on Saturday and bent it - oh bugger! I have a silver engine Beamish that I am just waiting for the tank to be done. Other than that I have a B40 in a box, a red/black works replica Beamish being chromed as we speak and a half finished C15. It's not economical to restore a bike unless it's very rare and it's tempting not to ride them once they are done but they can be restored again and people love to see them at a trial. I want to add an Ariel HT5 or HT3 to my collection so lI would be grateful if anyone would et me know if they ear of one! Cheers, Jim

All of the above will work. The 'cat of 3 tails' is best done in conjunction with the soak in brake fluid and ideal for the front pipe especially if it's chrome. If the exhaust is re-packable then change the wadding and clean the alloy box with paraffin, the inner tube full of holes can be burnt clean and wire brushed. If your exhaust is all steel with no packing I would go for the bonfire or blow lamp method. Do your burning away from the house or your wife will go mad with all the smoke!

Hi Scraggy, best to avoid a black engine Beamish and a Fantic as both are difficult to source parts for. A C15 or Tiger Cub are where you will find the cheapest parts but they are more to look after being 4 stroke. Go Yamaha TY as they are pretty bullet proof and spares are available. Silver engine Beamish bits are all available via Crooks Suzuki or eBay in the USA too. Good hunting!

Thanks S. M. much appreciated response, I don't get that much feed back and I you know I don't bother members with unnecessary mail. You may be able to help me here, I have a friend in need of a Monty 348 kickstart shaft - any ideas? Cheers, Jim

Now that is what I call abad day Woody! Keep taking the tablets. At the risk of being dumb, surely if your plug is oiling up you should be leaving quite acloud behind you? I am running in my Beamish at 25:1 on a fully synthetic and that isn't oiling up the plug. Have you looked at your carb jetting or have you been through that mill?

Thanks chaps, I have a few leads now. I have a very trick Cub that I bought recently and it handles like a modern bike and stops like one too. I alsohave a C15 in a standard frame that I am having modified, it has Cub hubs so should stop I am told! I don't expect hte C15 to handle like the Cub but it won't be as expensive if I bend it either! I want to build a B40 along the lines of the Cub with the best frame etc. more as investment than to compete. I am hoping for a lightweight chrome frame and a tank that meets the seat! What problems have you had sorting your C15 Woody? I have PVL ignition and an Amal 622 wwith a 30mm inlet manifold extension and a slow action throttle on mine but I haven't fired it up yet to see how it runs. It was a bit lumpy at ow revs with the Monobloc carb and points so I am hoping it will run better.

Thanks yet agaain Woody! How do people find these frame-makers? Do you have to trawl through TMX because I can't seem to find them on the net! I have (obviously) a Beamish with a Whitlock frame but the frame on the Cub I have makes the Whitlock look rough so I would love to find the guy who built it, apart from anything else, I want him to make me a side stand. I don't mind paying the money for quality, it's finding the right man is the trouble!

Thanks Woody, that's a start! Anyone ever heard of Roy Burgess? I wonder if these guys who make frames hide themselves away deliberately, I had a devil of a job finding Terry Weedy!

Does Jon Bliss make frames commercially? I have searched this site and done a Google search and can't find any contact details for him at all!

I am interested in building a B40 on a new frame and don't really fancy the Miller 'Hi-boy'. Does anyone know of another frame maker other than Cheney? I have a lovely Cub with a hand built frame that I believe was by Roy Burgess - is he still making frames does anyone know and how to get hold of him? Any help and advice appreciated!

For those of you not already in the know, there is a dedicatecd website and 'Owners Club' for the Beamish Suzuki. It costs nothing to join. It costs nothing to advertise your bike or parts for sale or place a 'wanted' ad. There is a database held with a register of frame and engine numbers where you can lodge your frame and engine number just in case your bike is ever stolen - you can also enquire if a bike with a frame or engine number you are interested in buying is registered stolen. All this is free! There is help and advice plus a members forum. There are reproduction decals available taken from originals and the only ones approved by the Beamish Owners Club as authentic (there are a lot of poor copies around) sorry, these are not free!. There are photos, brochures and manuals to download - all free. On this site you will find details of the only annual trial with a 'Beamish Only' class. The only thing we charge for is dating certificates if you wish to have an age-related plate for your bike - these are

I have a C15, a B40 and a Tiger Cub that all need to have the carb moved further from the engine to help stop fuel evaporation (or something like that!). Does anyone have any idea where to buy such an animal?

Worthing Trials club are running their annual Ray Bean Memorial Twinshock trial on the 15th of July 2007. It will start at 10:30 and be held at Reel Hall Farm, Woodhill Lane, Shamley Green, Nr Guildford Surrey, GU5 0SP. Adults

A veryuseful place to get parts is www.trialsbits.co.uk the guy there runs a B40 himself and knows his onions!

I have a 2004 125 Pro and a 2006 200 Pro, both tanks leaked! Poor workmanship is the only possible cause. What I have done to both to cure the problem is mix up some fibreglass resin, pour it into the tank and float it around all the weld joints. It cost me aoubt

You definitely need to take a look at your clutch. It is possible that the clutch basket has become 'grooved' where the steel plates have dug into it. This can be sorted by taking a file and carefully smoothing the edges. Once you have removed the friction and driven plates you should see where the damage is to the basket. The fibre coming away from the friction plates is also a possibility. You should clean the clutch plates thoroughly if you see noting else wrong. When you refill the gearbox, use ATF (automatic transmission fluid) Dextron II standard is recocommended by GasGas. If that doesn't cure it, you need to replace the clutch plates as they are probably warped. All this is assuming that you have the clutch adjusted correctly in the first place. If you are not sure, ask someone at the next trial you go to. Good luck! They can be a bit hit and miss, I have a 98 TX200 that works perfectly, a 2004 125 Pro that is a bit iffy and a 2006 200 Pro that is perfect! My mate has a 1999 TXT249 that is faultless since I did the basket.

I started trials at 48 myself. I started on an old twinshock 3 years ago and then to a 1999 GasGas 250. Last year I dedided to buy a brand new bike, I was persuaded to buy a Beta 200. The build quality was good but it had carb problems that the factory have known about for years and done nothing to resolve. I sold it this year and bought a 2006 GasGas Pro 200 instead. What a different bike it is! It is much lighter on the steering and seems much easier to handle all round. I guess it's what you are used to and feel happy on. When you get to the very modern bikes, it's a bit subjective and there's not that much to choose between them so go with what you feel is right.

Thanks for the advice! I agree about the Pirellis by the way! The PVL is

I'd say that 50-80 is a fair estimate of the numbers built. Mick Whitlock is probably the only one left who will know for sure as he made them! There are a few about still, not sure how many are being used as opposed to restored and polished! Value is very difficult, it depends on how original it is and the condition, could be anything from

Hello Alex, If you have done as Scotty says, you should be up and running by now. DON'T buy a manual for you black engine Beamish! If you go to my website http://www.beamishownersclub.com/_sgg/m4m1s1_1.htm you can get it for free - most of the ones on eBay are a rip off and incomplete. Clean you carb with an aerosol of carb cleaner, it disolves the deposits and old oil that build up in 2 stroke carbs, it's about