beamish owners club

Thanks for the information Tony, the damage occurred because I was using the holding tool incorrectly, so no-one to blame but myself! Cheers, Jim

I have a TY250D that someone else 'restored' and cosmetically it looks the business. I have sored a few issues with it and decided to fit a Kevlar clutch as I know the TY175 had clutch problems and heard that the TY250 was the same. I fitted a Kevalr cluthc in my Honda it it cured all it's problems. Anyway, I stripped the clutch down to find that whoever rebuilt the engine didn't bother to recondition the clutch basket which is badly grooved. In taling the clutch hub off, my supposed 'specail holding tool' broke the clutch hub so I now need to find another one. I noticed when I got the clutch in to the washing tank that the clutch steel plates are not completely circular. I have not come across this before and I would like to know if there is a particular way around or position they have to be in when I reassemble the clutch? Any ideas on the tracking down a clutch hub would be good too!

I only realised they made a TLR125 recently when I looked on Yahoo Japan and saw it had some common parts with the TLR200! I don't know if they exported it to the US but I don't think it came here.

Don't you just hate it when that happens?! There was a on evilbay RS250T went the same way recently - one minute there and the next, no trace!

Go with Big John's advice Victor, mine was just a guess and Big John clearly has the right information. I was on 10mm out on the oil level but guessed at 10W rather than 5W - these Japanese guys were more advanced than I thought! Cheers, Jim

Hi Paul, I understand the comment made about the Scorpa air-cooed bikes but you then have to consider the modern t/s like the Cotswold if you start making rules within rules. The dear littlw Scorpa wasn't that popular anyway! I think having an air-cooled mono class is an excellent idea and I wish you every sucess with it. In my local club (the Soft Southern B*stards - it's not really called that!) we persuaded them to include a twinshock class for beginners, they had a class for white, blue and red routes but no yellow. This is the first year and we consistantly have 7 riders and a great time. We are mostly old farts out to have a run around on the bike we have lovingly restored. There are any number of guys coming back to trials in their late 40's or even taking it up and they want somewhere to have a run about and a chat with like minded people. We don't get in the way much as most of our routes only take about 30 seconds in the section and we don't all fall off! We don't get in the way of more serious riders and boos t club numbers but you do have to get the word out that it's on and available to all. I only took up trialing (some say I have yet to start!) 5 years ago and it was like a private club - not deliberately but when you did find a club, they may tell you on the phone or on their website that the next meeting would be at 'Don Barretts' - you had to be in the know to find it! I write a couple of club websites and I have a list of venues that we use, with post codes and map links so that new members can find us. When I started the local club website a few years ago we used to get 18-25 at a trial, we now get 50+ some times, partly because of the website and partly because of the classes - we cater a lot for completely new riders of all ages. Definitely go for the a/c mono class as they have nowhere else they can compete on a level playing field and look to get the old twinshock restorers off their butts and on their bikes for a little run through the woods! Cheers, Jim

Hola Javier, I wondered what on earth you were doing with a mono Fantic until I saw the picture - it is a beauty! If it will start from cold without choke then I assume the spark plug is pretty black? It would indicate to me that the mixture is too rich so not an air leak problem or it would run better with the choke on - it doesn't seem to be getting enough air. It doesn't look to have done any work so I doubt the dellorto is worn out but I had a similar problem on my Honda, check your air filter and the air way to the carb and then clean the pilot jet and air mixute (slow running jet) again - that was the problem with mine. Worth checking the reeds to see if they are gummed up. Good luck! Cheers, Jim

Hi Dean, Obviously 2 metal surfaces are touching somewhere, that is certainly your noise and the cause of the swarf. Did you have any bits left over? Look inside the clutch cover casing to see if anything is touching there, also check the screw length in the oil thrower (on the end of the crank) if you have replaced these, make sure they are not too long as they run very close to the clutch basket. Find where your metal filings are coming from and you will find the source of the noise, look for shiny metal. Good luck, Jim

Hello Mattylad, In the long run you would probably find it better to sell your 200 and buy the 250 - think along the lines of Barack Obama's lipstick comment!

Having contacted Joan Vidal about the chain tube bracket, they wrote back and told me I could buy one from Dave Renham!

I have a RS250TA which some say is just a 'home market' TLR250 and others believe is a RSC built bike to look like (but not ride like!) the TLR250 - which ever is the case, I had bad clutch judder when it was hot in all gears but first! I spoke to Tim at Gordon Farleys and he recommended Castrol R4 10w/40 Superbike Oil (now renamed 4T just in case you can't find R4!). Tim also recommended the CG125 anti-judder kit provided that my clutch was in good condition with nothing badly worn that might be causing the juddering. Tim didn't recommend or rate the Barnett Kevlar clutch plates yet others (such as Mike at B and J Racing) swear by them and supply kits for the TLRs. I stripped my clutch down on Satureday and replaced the 2nd, 3rd and 4th friction plates with Barnett Kevlar plates (part number 301-35-10008), I was told that you don't use Kevlar on the 1st and 5th plates as they run directly against aluminium and the kevlar wears it away much faster than a standard plate. I also changed all te steel plates for a set I bought from www.trialsbits.co.uk for

All of the foregoing could cure clutch drag but I have found in just about every trials bike I have ever bought that the biggest cause is a 'grooved' or 'ridged' clutch basket where the friction plates dig into the aluminium. If you have a half decent oil (ATF is as good as ny I have found or Castrol SLX) and your clutch is adjusted properly, I would look to the wear on the edges of the clutch basket before spending a lot of money replacing the plates. Most clutched drag when the oil is cold.

Thanks Bo Drinker, is that just the friction plates from a CR80 or the whole assembly? I have some Barnett Kevlar plates coming from the States but I am sure the correct oil must play it's part too. I had a brand new Beta 200 and the clutch was dreadful until I used Castrol SLX 0/30W. Cheers, Jim

I am running a semi-synthetic 10/40W in my RS250TA and suffering clutch judder and a very 'on- off' clutch when the engine is hot. Does anyone else have these problems and is there another oil that will make a difference?

Thanks Martin and Tim for your input. I just need to brush up on my Espanol to order the bracket! I thought I had found everything but as it turns out I am in need of the 'Malcolm Rathmell con Scottish Six Day Trial' decal from the top of the tank cover. I wrote to Malcolm and he very kindly sent me two decals from his 1979 SSDT but neither were the one from the bike. Any ideas on the decal chaps?

Did the engine and frame numbers match on a Seeley?

For my sins (a multitude obviously!) I have ended up with a hardly used and near perfect 1979 Monty 349. I have found everything to put it back to 'out of the box' condition except the bracket that holds the chain tubes in postion. The previous owner cut down the original bracket to fit a road sprocket so I can fit the original sprocket without replacing the bracket. Any ideas where I may find a NOS bracket or even a good used one. It's all the bike needs before heading off to the museum.

Thanks Bryan, I have ordered a Kevlar clutch for my Honda, I shall see if it fits! It's the overheating and chattering problem I am trying to overcome, it's operating fine when it's cold and in low gears. Time will tell.... Jim

Hi Nigel, it will depend on whether the gudgeon pin is closer to the crown on the B25 piston than the C15 or lower. Did you find / can you see a spacer or thicker gasket under the barrel to lift it?

Hi Mike, yes that is a help thanks. I have bought a stock TLR exhaust to replace the aftermarket one currently on my RS250TA and I will have the aftermarket one adapted to fit the RS200T. I think the one currently on the 250 could be a Wako - it's all alloy and has 3 parallelograms of decending size on the rear box. The other alternative is to sell the one currently on the 250 and buy a Wako for the RS200T but where can you buy them? Cheers, Jim

I have a RS200T with a near perfect RSC exhaust system that I don't want to worry about trashing when I ride the bike so I intend to take it (and other precious bits) off and replace it with something expendable. Does anyone know if the standard TLR200 system will fit the RS200T or maybe a WES?

I'd like to fit some Barnett Kevlar clutch plates in my Honda RS250TA but every thing I touch on the bike seems to be the same as TLR200 or TLR250 so if thiere is a difference in the clutch plates between the 2 models I have no idea which ones to get! Anyone out there got any ideas?

A grand Steve? If you have that sort of money to trhow around I will sell you my 240 and buy you all new Hebo clothing and boots to match! You will need a spare bike if you're going back to Robregordo....

Hello Lee, The bushes you are looking for are 'metalastic' bushes made by 'Slient Bloc', they measure: I/D: 1/2" O/D: 1" Inner L: 2" Outer L: 1-3/4" The spacer is: I/D: 1/2" O/L: 4" The spindle is: O/D: 1/2" O/L: 9-1/4" You can make the spindle and the spacer without too much difficulty but the bushes are another matter. they are basically one tube inside another fixed with rubber. When the swing arm moves it is the rubber that flexs to allow the movement because the swing arm spindle is done up tight and the bushes are pressed into the swing arm. I have been in touch with the manufacturers of the original bush and they have no old stock. However, they do still have the old tooling and are supposed to be getting back to me with a price for new bushes. I have asked twice now and still they have not come back to me. Keep and eye on the website for more information as I get it. http://www.beamishownersclub.com Cheers, Jim

Lee Harris - how rude! The Beamish is an iconic bike! They are an acquired taste and have 'interesting' handling characteristics it's true! The 325 was a big mistake and was developed after pressure from the works riders who saw the Spanish bikes going bigger on engine size but they hadn't taken into account the superior engine capabilites of the Japanese engine. Once they had produced the 325 it had to be sleeved down to a 250 to make it usable! In truth, all the foregoing is true, you only have to look at the field of serious twinshck riders - spot a Beamish? But aesthetically there was noting prettier and most Beamish are garage queens now, only the die-hards still fight them round a modern day course! Of their era they were great but only a couple years later you had the Fantics and the Honda which are a whole different animal.