stork955

Gday, higher engine load than first probably. Check the high tension side next (plug cap etc.) Cheers, Stork

Yep, come on Copemech, how much? Stork

Gday, yep - what Chewy said. Higher speed misfires are usually electrical but dont rule out filthy air cleaners. The mixture screw will only affect the bike at idle and just off idle. Above half throttle and the carb is only using the main jet and needle. However a fouled plug (which can cause a misfire like this) is usually caused by mixture issues. Make sure the plug, plug cap and lead and coil connections are all good first. Cheers, Stork.

Gday all, my local Beta distributor just emailed to say the Rev 3 08 top clamp fit the Evo OK, so that will be my solution. At $180 aus dollars it seems not too bad and will give me the option of going up as high as needed with easily obtainable risers underneath the stock bars. Thanks for all your inputs. Cheers, Stork.

Gday, OK we didnt notice that - mind you it was a quick measure with a rule and a stick standing the bikes next to each other... The V-Mar thing is another option also and they also look quite good quality. Thanks again. Cheers, Stork

Gday, on the parts list it looks like the top L/H side of the radiator. Cheers, Stork

Gday, I had Renthals on my Techno, they are very good, but I imagine they are all pretty good. As far as what matches the Beta bend, I have no idea. The bars on my Evo are actually made by an Italian company who's name escapes me now, but that is not necessarily the same company who made the ones you currently use or what Beta fitted to the 08's. Cheers, Stork

Gday, with upside down forks it must be a Techno? Are you sure of the year? You can check all of this on the Beta UK website, you need to know your frame number. It will help if we can work out which bike you actually have first. Cheers, Stork

Gday, thanks Cope, it seems the Jitsies go the highest, 5 1/2 inches. higher than the Hebo's, even the Raga bend. We did a rough measure against my mates 09 Sherco R sharp thing yesterday, and the top clamp may even change across from that. Cool, more options opening up. Thanks for all your input. Cheers, Stork

Gday, some video is available on the Dakar website. That might keep you going for a bit. A good result for Sherco. Cheers, Stork

Gday, clean the exhaust pipe before anything. Front to back. It may be all you need. Cheers, Stork

Gday, Are you sure you have damaged the CDI? they are pretty robust... check the stator first and then all your wiring. You may be pleasantly surprised to find an easy fix. Cheers, Stork

Gday all, the Raga bars by Hebo appear to be the tallest "fatbars" you can get as far as I know. They are 8mm over the normal ones. It looks like a 08 Rev 3 top clamp might fit and it has a traditional 2 bolt clamp so that may well be the way to go. Im going to try a swap with a mate which will tell if they fit. If thats the case - problem solved. I'll post the results of this when it happens. Thanks for your input. Cheers, Stork

If you can push fluid through the hose with the banjo at the m/cyl loose from the caliper that will tell you everything is OK from the caliper to the m/cyl. If not work out why. If the fluid wont then pass through the m/cyl and the pushrod is out, it most likely means you have a blocked transfer port in the m/cyl. Keep in mind that the hole fluid is passing through is very small, so there wont be a major gushing forth of fluid when you try this. You will need to remove it and very carefully prise the inlet hose fitting out of the m/cyl and look inside. There will be 2 holes, one larger and one smaller. Remove the m/cyl piston as well so you dont damage anything here. The smaller hole is the transfer port and this must be clear for the thing to work at all. Clear it with some fine wire or similar very carefully and then wash the cylinder and piston out in hot water. Dry it completely (with compressed air if you have it) ,lube the piston and inlet fitting with brake fluid and refit them very carefully. Make sure the piston comes back to the circlip fully. Refit the m/cyl and try backbleeding again. Cheers, Stork

Gday, make sure the bleeder screw isn't blocked by rubbish/corrosion as well. Good luck, my Techno was an absolute pain to bleed the rear, I had to remove the entire system off the bike to get the angles correct to get the air out. Be patient! Cheers, Stork

Gday, Happy new year to all! - Thanks - I thought of that but there is not much metal left after you knock the existing clamp off. The casting is "hollow" underneath and the clamp is a hinged affair like on later Gassers. I need to have a closer look as I may be able to drill and tap a second hole and then use exisiting stuff but I dont think there is enough metal to even do that much. Cheers, Stork

Gday all, just got my new 2010 Evo and want to lift the bars up. Have any of you achieved this without breaking the bank? I was looking at the X-Clamp setup (very nice by the way) and it seems that the Gassers use the same triple clamp. Can anyone confirm this - it might be an easy way to get a "flat top" clamp without too much effort rather than the $800 or so for the factory Beta setup. Cheers, Stork

Gday, they are an unusual (non ISO) size. Go with the Feetups' previous post - see your local bike shop. The TY's use a very common Yamaha neck bearing set, readily available and the only way to go. I like All-Balls kits as they come with all the necessary seals as well. Cheers, Stork

Gday, see the sticky topic in this forum on Beta clutches. Good info there for you, and use ATF in the transmission. The actual job is very easy. False neutrals are a rider issue normally, make sure you fully move the lever and hold pressure on it when you shift. 4th and 5th are the least used gears in a trials 'box. Cheers, Stork

Gday, further to the above, make sure the radiator itself is not blocked with mud etc and has free airflow through. If the fan works OK and the radiator is clear it is possible that the cap has failed and wont hold pressure. Very hard to test though. Make sure that the seals inside the cap (there will be 2) look OK. Do these checks before dismantling the engine. Cheers, Stork

Gday, they use the same Crank bearings by the look of it, so you might be in luck. Merry Xmas, Stork

Gday, aftermarket fork seals are available from any bike dealer. They will have a listing for the Beta as they use a generic Paoli. Failing that you can source them by size - measure the diameter of the leg, the height and the outside of the seal and go from there. I cant remeber the size but maybe someone has it written somewhere. Just a note for nh014, Fork seals are not a standard TC oil seal and that type of seal will leak... They also dont always come in the ISO sizes available from bearing shops. Expect to pay 35 Australian Peso's for Fork seals, your currency may vary! Merry Xmas, Stork

Gday, go with a standard plug, and have a look at the one thats in there now. Fouling is most likely the problem, which can be caused by wrong heat range, blocked air cleaner, incorrect jetting or float levels, or incorrect fuel/oil mixture. I ran 70:1 in my Techno with standard carb settings and standard NGK plug and the plug was coffee brown always - perfect. Get your plug from any car parts place, they are much cheaper and the Beta plugs are a very standard easily available type. You shouldnt experience a miss fire, they do go "flat" through the range. While you are kicking around that area, make sure the plug cap is OK and check the connection between it and the plug lead. Often corrosion here can cause issues. Cheers, Stork

Gday, its possible but unlikely that the flywheel has lost magnetism. A quick easy check is to see how much it "hangs" on to a screwdriver when run across the magnets. Checking against a known good one can help get a feel for this. Magnets will lose their "grunt" through vibration and excessive heat or through long term incorrect storage. This is why it is unlikely that your 02 bike has issues in this area unless the flywheel has been seriously abused previously. I have to ask, you have confirmed there is no spark at all? Some spark is still spark and it is often difficult to gauge if its "enough". The best way to check this is to use a tester with an adjustable gap, like this - http://www.toolfetch.com/Category/Automoti...rs/LIS50850.htm any bike should be able to spark across a 6mm gap in air no probs. Never check CDI's by using the old "hold the plug near the head" trick, this can cause more damage than it solves by breaking down coil internal insulation or killing the CDI unit. If there is no spark you can check stator output on the bike using a volt meter set to AC, you should see around 70+ volts kicking over, and the trigger output should be around 1 volt at kickover. This of course will tell if the flywheel is OK as a matter of course. Hope this helps, Cheers, Stork

Gday, there is no performance benefits from using one plug over the other, however using the wrong type can cause issues with the CDI (changing secondary current amounts) on our bikes. The resistor is fitted to reduce RFI (Radio frequency interference) which can play havoc with other electronic systems typically in fuel injected vehicles. Its always best to stick with what is recommended by the manufacturer. Also important - how does the plug look? Running too hot a plug can melt pistons in a short time. Cheers, Stork