stork955

Gday, what was the plug you fitted (the numbers on it?) there is a chance it was not the correct heat range. Oil should be 70:1. Correct plug is a NGK BP7ES, Champion NY7CC, Bosch WR5DC, Nippondenso W22EP-U or other similar plug. Iridium plugs are not necessary. Cheers, Stork

Gday, Throttle body cleaner, available in spray cans, from anywhere that sells car parts etc. Dont use it on plastics/ O rings etc so strip the carb completely first. Cheers, Stork

Gday, it depends on which bit you tested. If you got 2-5 volts from the actual source coil that is way low, by about 90 volts AC. If testing the trigger that is way high, usually these produce about 1 volt at kickover. It sounds like you tested the source and it is too low - needs rewinding. Cheers, Stork

Gday, it seems strange that a good coloured plug will not spark, but a new one will. What actual plug are you using? (Brand and number). If a new plug makes it go, I doubt the condensor is at fault, however it is old and a new one will be a good idea anyway as B40RT says. Cheers, Stork

Gday, second what Andy says above, also what colour is the "old" plug exactly? Cheers, Stork

Gday, I just fit the seal first and then grease it, the piston, and around the outside of the caliper bore to help stop crap getting in around the piston. (More usually around the boot area that most bikes still use, but ours don't. ) Piston should be a nice slide in fit after passing the seal. Cheers, Stork

Gday, clean all parts with Soap and water only. Dry everything well with air, or warmth from a hairdryer etc. Polish the pistons and bores with fine polish and wash in soap and water after. Make sure the grooves for the caliper seals are free and clear of all rubbish. Use Rubber Grease to lubricate everything on re-assembly. Double and Triple check that there is free travel at the brake pedal before attempting to bleed. It will not bleed unless there is. Check the forum here for further bleeding tips. Good Luck, Cheers, Stork

Gday, probably a crook fan. My 99 used one from many small japanese road bikes. Your local wrecker/breaker should be able to match one up from your sample. Make sure the thermo switch connections are clean and tight first though. Cheers, Stork.

Gday, do those things run a fuel filter or strainer near the pump? Id be looking there if it were me... Cheers, Stork

Gday, if it is wired through the Source coil there will be too much load for both ignition and fan. Aftermarket stators are available for the beta, and Im sure there will be many shops that could rewind the existing one for you in the states. The stator will fail eventually, so might as well get this done now and you should be trouble free in the future. Cheers, Stork

Gday, depends if you want originality or nor I spose. They work as designed, I run one on my Ariel. If you want compact and easier to mount out of the way, go for a modern one. There are no real advantages apart from that.

Gday, you might be out of luck, my old Techno had a larger than standard distance between the mounting bolts. It might pay to measure them and have a look on ebay for fatbar mounts. Most are listed with the bolt centre distance so you will see if any will fit your bike. Cheers, Stork

Gday, Clean the front exhaust sections. It will need it at its current age. Also check ignition timing. Using a Timing Light is the best way. Cheers, Stork

Gday, theres no way I would want to strip a rear Trials caliper every 5 events, even if I was paid. Bleeding them is a nightmare... Regular fluid changes (annually is how frequently I do mine) is the best preventative measure. It probably also pays to not leave them wet after washing etc. A good run up the driveway dragging them to get a bit of warmth in may help a lot long term. Use rubber grease to lubricate everything on reassembly. Available from any automotive parts place - note - this is different to "normal" grease and designed to be used in braking systems on rubber components. Cheers, Stork

Gday, it sounds like the transfer port is blocking up. Recheck that the piston comes Fully out to the circlip when released - if this is not happening this will cause that problem. Cheers, Stork

Gday, does is overflow at any particular time, eg immediately fuel is turned on, or does it take a few minutes etc? Cheers, Stork

Gday, as Shercoman says. It also probably needs a fluid change as well, this should be done every 2 years maximum anyway. Good luck with that, search the Beta forums for more info, there is lots of it. Cheers, Stork

Gday, I have no idea what mine came off, I would imagine that it was from a DT or similar. Cheers, Stork.

Gday, does it have the correct spacer between the bearings? Or indeed any spacer? Cheers, Stork

Gday, according to my cross reference the 74 RL uses a 12161- 30200 Rod, same as a TS 250 69-74 model, and a 72-74 TM 250. The 75 RL uses a 12161-16400 rod, same as 72-75 TM 250, and TS 250 71-81 (up to an X) 250. It looks a bit like there was supercession there. I Dunno if the Beamish's used a different rod. Pro-X have a sizing chart in their catologue and Im sure they would make a rod that fits. Cheers, Stork

Gday, on mine I used a standard style kickstart that had the correct spline and cold bent it in the press. Worked a treat. Might be an option for you. Cheers, Stork

Gday, it may be a simple as a failed radiator cap. I'd try that before pulling the engine apart. Cheers, Stork

Gday, why do you think it is lean? - What symptoms are you experiencing? And have you looked at the spark plug? Cheers, Stork

Gday Iain, running pre mix alters the fuel/air mix in that it is leaner. This is because in the same weight of fuel there is less fuel as oil is now present. I removed the oil pump from both my twinshocks (250 and 175) and had to make no changes to carb settings however. Plug readings indicate perfect mixture (coffee brown spark plug). Perhaps I was just lucky. As Feetup said the most important thing first up is to make sure you have blocked the port that the oil used to enter the inlet manifold. This of course will suck in air unless it is blocked and will make starting and slow running very poor. It wont however affect high speed running very much. If you have troubles after this first step make sure all the basic things are OK before doing anything else - check the air cleaner element and re-oil it (not too much oil!) Check ignition is OK etc and correct spark plug as recommended by the manufacturer. Then see how it goes. If still poor, ride the bike as much as possible in the range that is bad and note - the throttle opening amount, then kill the engine, remove the plug and have a look at what colour it is. (This is called a Plug Chop). This will tell you what the mixture is like at that point. Changing the main jet will only change full throttle mixture so it is rarely an issue. If you do need to do anything, it will most likely be a needle adjustment with its circlip. Let us know how it goes. Cheers, Stork

Gday, as far as your brakes go if you have recently fitted new pads it will take a little while for the new ones to bed in, so give it some time before doing anything else. Bledding etc wont help unless the pedal is spongy. For your whell, you will most likely be better off stripping it down for any type of repair. If the cracks are small and just at the edge of the rim it may be better to just monitor them for the time being and see if they get larger. Welding would be possible and painting or powder coating may hide a potential big problem later. Cheers, Stork