stork955

G'day, you need to measure your piston and bore and calculate the clearance. More than about 3-5 thou and you are looking at a new piston at least. The barrel needs to be de glazed (the brown stains need removal) at least prior to this to get an accurate idea of what is happening. Remove the carbon from the head and barrel. Use something soft to not scratch anything when you do this. Check the small end and big end for wear while you can. It looks like you have had some rubbish get through the air cleaner, it will pay to check this also before restarting the bike. Definately replace your rings but check the side clearance in the ring grooves before this -you may need a piston anyway. You should not be able to rock the ring in the groove more than about 20 degrees when slipped in "backwards" - with the ring off the piston slip it into the groove from the "outside" and check in a few spots around the piston. (I hope that makes sense!) Thats about it I think. See how you go. Quick tip -you can use a kitchen scotch pad to clean your gasket surfaces. make sure there is absolutely no gasket left anywhere. Dont let this rubbish fall into the crankcase. Also wash your barrel in hot soapy water after honing until a white rag comes out clean. Oil it immediately to stop rust. Cheers, Stork

G'day, No coil = No spark = engine will not run and foul spark plug. Providing the plug is the correct heat range this is the only cause. Cheers, Stork.

G'day, If the plug is black you have a rich issue. Check you have the correct spark plug first. (An NGK BP7ES). Check the air filter first, if it is very dirty or over oiled it will do this. then . After that, check the float level in the carb and needle and seat for damage. That is your most likely trouble. Search these forums for instructions on how to do these things and ask if you need help. Float level checking does hold a few traps for first timers! However, stick to this sequence of events -always the easy things first! Cheers, Stork

G'day, is the spark plug black when you remove it? (This is the key to your issue) Let us know and we can go from there. Cheers, Stork

G'day. Consider what ATF is designed for. It runs in Automatic transmissions, which consist of generally 2 or 3 clutches exactly the same in design as the ones in our bikes. Transmitting a whole lot more power as well. It lubricates gears in the epicyclic gear trains (usually 3 of them), lubricates bronze bushes in these same gear trains, Acts as a hydraulic fluid, cools, Operates under brake bands, does all of this at temperatures of up to 600 degrees celcius and without changing for years and many thousands of kilometers. It has anti foaming properties. It does not have as much detergent (if any at all ) as engine oils. It does not need it. All this for little price. Keep in mind too, that 75 weight Gear oil is actually the same viscosity (give or take) as 30 weight engine oil. It is not measured in the same way. ATF is about 7 weight. Makes a difference in a gearbox? Not really. Cheers, Stork

G'day. Stop! Search in this forum and find the brand new measurements I posted for the Evo ignition system. Get your multimeter out and make some measurements comparing what you get to what I posted. That will show you what is wrong before you go throwing money at the bike for no result. Don't guess - it's always expensive. Post here if you need more help. Cheers, Stork

G'day, If you have them there and new, fit them. It's about all thats left that will prevent a spark. You will need a flywheel puller, it's a pretty standard one available from a bike shop near you. Cheers, Stork

G'day, ATF is fine for the gearbox. It is probably the best oil you can use for it. And one of the cheapest if you use Dex-3. Follow David's (Feetup Fun) suggestions as well. He has hundreds of them! Aircleaner element available from your local Yamaha place, or Trials UK Cheers, Stork

G'day, isn't the idle screw on the Delloroto's an air screw? (out = lean)? If so it sounds like you are going the wrong way. I can vaguely remember the setting for those is a half turn out or something like that. Someone will chime in and give the factory spec. Also, clean the exhaust. By now it will be well choked up. Cheers, Stork

G'day, clean the exhaust, there are plenty of threads on this. Otherwise, just ride it, they are a good bike. Cheers, Stork

G'day, condensation in the cover is not why the stators fail, technically they will work underwater. I wouldnt worry about it. If there were points, that is a different story. Cheers, Stork

G'day, A bottom radiator hose from an early Toyota Landcruiser fits if memory serves me. Try your local car parts place with some dimensions if you cant get a yamaha one. Cheers, Stork

G'day, N7YCC Champion, BP7ES NGK, W22EP-U Nippondenso, W5DC Bosch. Cheers, Stork

G'day. what do you need? Cheers, Stork

G'day, If the part numbers are the same there should be no problem. Stork

G'day, in light of having oil passages in the cover you may be better off using Loctite 515 or similar. It wont set unless it is between the surfaces and will dissolve in oil so no chance of blocking anything. 3 Bond is excellent otherwise as it wont break off like cheaper RTV's and block oil pickups. Cheers, Stork

G'day, before stripping it, I'd clean the carb and exhaust, check the points and reset and see how it goes. Its not going to wear out sitting in the shed! Stork

G'day, the Evo's dont need mods to the carb. If fuel is running out of the overflows you have a needle and seat issue, a high float level or a punctured or otherwise "sinky" float. Have a close look in those areas. Cheers, Stork

Gday - apply heat with a heat gun (Paint stripping style works well). Dont be afraid to get things hot. Use a puller with heat only if that doesnt work. Cheers, Stork.

To answer Sam, all m/cyls have two ports between the reservoir and the actual cylinder.The big one feeds fluid into the area between the cups(seals) and the caliper, and the little one allows expanded fluid to enter the m/cyl as the brakes get hotter. As you press on the brake (or pull the lever) the big hole closes first,followed by the small hole (transfer port). Often in an attempt to correct poor brakes, people adjust the freetravel of the pushrod to push the piston into the m/cyl and closing the large port. The m/cyl cannot fill properly. In extreme cases both holes are closed which is really bad. Bleeding becomes impossible. These ports must be open at rest for the system to work properly. Have a look at http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/129 (scroll right down) for a picture. It is a tandem car type, but the principles are the same -imagine that one half is cut off. Cheers, Stork

Gday, your issue is in the clutch. If it was in the transmission the clutch basket would'nt move when you turn the wheel. Start there first. Cheers, Stork

Gday Bruce, regarding your breather - remember that the same capacity change happens under the piston as it does above - so you will roughly have the same amount of air movement through the breather as you have through the carb, but in 2 directions. If there is little black smoke then you are heading in the right direction. No black smoke, clean running and a nice brown plug is what you are after, it is carb so concentrate on that and dont allow external non issues to be confusing! Hope this helps, Cheers, Stork

Gday Bruce, it can make a difference -also you need to know if the needle, slide cutaway, pilot jet and needle jet are also the same or different to the test carb you fitted. The only way is to look at the components in the test carb and get the numbers. Carb tuning can be a long and frustrating thing, they never work perfectly out of the box but the satisfaction of getting it sorted is worth it in the end. Check those numbers and let us know how you go. Cheers, Stork

You are right. CDI's and coils rarely fail unless we do something to them.... Stork

Gday, you need about 25mm (1 inch) clearance between the tensioner and the swingarm. That will put it in the ballpark. Does the Zero have "snails" on the axle for adjustment? If so, move these equally - they have marks to facilitate this on the adjuster and the swingarm. Cheers, Stork