stork955

Gday, its possible that the coil may be failing, although it will pay to have a good look around other stuff first. What colour is the spark plug? Air cleaner OK etc. All wiring OK, no corrosion in connectors etc. Check those things out as they are the easiest. Cheers, Stork

Gday, second what Glenn says - teach him the correct technique first and he will enjoy no problems for life. Dont let him drop his arm to apply the brake, just use the finger/s. Cheers, Stork

Gday guys, stating the obvious I know but there must be clearance between the pushrod and the piston near the pedal. After this, if something is blocking the transfer port in the master cylinder you will get the same symptoms. This hole is tiny and takes nothing to block. Of course the caliper must not be seized either! It might pay to double and triple check this stuff before fitting parts that may not actually fix the problem. Cheers, Stork

Gday Rick, colder plugs etc may help, but you are most likely masking the true symptoms. If there is a bit of metal getting hot in the combustion chamber or a massive buildup of carbon a colder plug wont make a zot of difference. Id be doing the checks mentioned previously, it probably wont be doing the engine any good. Cheers, Stork

Gday, if you have a compressor, blow air under the grip. Too easy. Otherwise cut the old ones off. Cheers, Stork

Gday, if it only does it after a period of warming up and riding I would say your ignition timing isnt the problem. I would still check it with a light anyway. Many 2 stroke CDI's retard a bit before advancing so that is probably normal. Check the plug is the correct one for the bike. After that I would be having a close look at the piston crown and combustion chamber. Decoke for a start. Pinging is often caused by excessive compression - it happens to 4 strokes all the time. Also look for any small "dags" of metal in the area that may be able to heat up to the point of causing pre-ignition. These you can smooth away with a file etc. After all of that if it is still no good find a reputable 2-stroke tuner in your area to have a look at the squish band. This is most likely the source of the problem but most expensive to sort and not a job for someone who doesnt know what they are doing. I wouldnt even have a go at reshaping that. Good luck. Cheers, Stork

Gday, it sounds like you have an airleak in the inlet manifold somewhere. Have a good look around that area first. Cheers, Stork

Gday, power the fan up directly with 12 volts from a car battery. If it works, you have an issue with the bike, if not, you need a new fan. I got one for my Techno from my local wreckers, it is the same as many japanese bikes. Cheers, Stork

Gday, its most likely the thermo switch. A full test is to remove it, put it in boiling water and then test. It should read short at around 95+ degress C. A quick test is to just short the wires together. As far as I know the stator's output is rectified (changed to DC) but not regulated.At least it wasnt on my old Techno. This means that it was pushing around 50 volts into the fan. That might be why my fan died! I fitted a regulator myself. Cheers, Stork

Gday, not necessarily. Over a long time if the bike is rich it may get to the point of misfiring when the carbon buildup on the plug becomes too much, if it is slightly rich this may take a few rides. Dropping the needle one notch will only sharpen it up a little, and should clean up your plug to a nice brown. The mixture screw will only affect idle mixture which may have some small effect but not a lot overall. It does sound like it is out too far -the usual rule of thumb is around 1 - 2 turns depending on where you are. Anyway, if you make any adjustments, do only one at a time and if you notice a poor result, just reset back to where you were in the first place. Cheers, Stork.

Gday, your bike is too rich. If the plug looks "dry" and black, this is caused by fuel. Check the aircleaner is OK first (clean and not over-oiled) and then you may need to drop the needle one notch. Ride for a while and pull the plug and see how it looks. Cheers, Stork

Gday, further to what the other guys are posting, airboxes only need the same size inlet as the carb and manifold in terms of area. So many people open these holes up for "extra breathing" that only upsets carburettion and allows dirt and water more entry places. If you think about it, the carb and inlet manifold are the restriction, so if the airbox can keep up with this it is sized correctly. Manufacturers dont get this wrong! Another thing is that all carbs exhibit a standing wave - if you watch an open one running there will be a mist of air/fuel just out of the inlet side - this is what feetup was referring to. It seems that the carb is working "in reverse". The inlet tract and airbox help control this. On an off-road bike there are no good reasons not to use one. Cheers, Stork

Gday, by the sounds of things someone has had a stator failure before and is driving the ignition system with the fan/lights coil. The 2 should be seperate and not affect each other in any way. I reckon you are up for a stator, either new or rewind. With a voltmeter (AC) check the output from the other stator output wires. I havent got a wiring diagram I can read for the Techno, but there wil be a low output from one coil (the trigger), around 1 volt at kick, and the other coil should be the source coil with around 50 plus volts. This is seperate to the yellow (I think) output which is the one that goes to the rectifier for the fan etc. Hope that makes sense, Cheers, Stork

Gday, if the plug is black it means there is either too much oil or too much fuel. If it looks wet it is oil, if it looks dry it is fuel. Check that first. For oil - check your premix. For fuel -check your air filter is clean and not over-oiled, check the carb float level and make sure it is clean inside there, and make sure the needle is in the correct position. You say you have the correct recommended spark plug so that wont be an issue. Let us know what you find. Cheers, Stork

Gday, drop your knees when climbing so your body remains upright but more forward against the bars. I have 30 mm under my bars and Im 6'1. Climbing is about the only thing I can do OK:-) Cheers, Stork

Gday, good diagnosis. Glad its all sorted. Cheers, Stork

Gday, 32 meg is way too high - basically open circuit. The source coil should be somewhere around 100 ohms. The wiring diagram I have here doesnt clearly show what the brown is supposed to do, but I have to assume you are OK with it grounded. Anyway - looks like a rewind or replacement for you. Cheers, Stork

Gday, they have a little spring and ball in the carb body which acts as a detent for the choke. Have a look behind the lever and see if they are still there. Mine is pretty weak and doesnt hold either as Alans above. Cheers, Stork

Gday, I think the one you mean is a plug for the shift shaft and the rubber plug is the seal for the hole. Best bet would be to lay the bike over and clean the area really well, and put a smear of 3-Bond over it. That should do the trick. Cheers, Stork

Gday - your dealer is talking utter C*ap! ATF is probably the most highly specified oil anywhere. In an automotive automatic transmission it has to lubricate roller bearings, needle roller bearings, torrington races and bronze bearings. It is a hydraulic fluid and operates the various clutches (yes - multiple clutches of a type identical to motorcycle ones!) and bands, it has to withstand temperatures of up to 600C, does not foam, is compatible with all modern type oil seals, it is a gear lubricant and is compatible with the sliding loads that gears produce etc etc. Short story - save some work probably and try the ATF first. If it doesnt work, then pull your clutch apart! ( I dont think you will need too). Cheers, Stork

Gday, 550 cc is right. Is the bike standing level? You should see oil in the middle of the sight glass but even a slight shift to one side or the other will make a difference in what you see. Cheers, Stork.

Gday - no, its normal. Beta rear brakes are really hard to bleed. The problem is that its really hard to get the master cylinder primed, so it will move fluid. Then its really hard to get air from all the high points in the system. My old Techno also had a blocked transfer port in the master cylinder which makes priming and bleeding impossible. If you can force fluid through the reservior inlet with a syringe the transfer port is OK. The only way i got mine was to remove the entire system and hang it up as someone mentioned previously. This way you can orient things so air will rise up if that makes sense for you. You cant bleed these with the pedal, you must remove it and use a screwdriver or similar. The M/cyl piston must return fully to the circlip. You will have to roll things around to get the air up and through high points. Tapping with the handle of a screwdriver will help this. Patience is needed... Once it is bled, refit the lot back onto the bike and away you go. I cant comment on the Rev's, but on the Techno I had to undo the top shock bolt to slip the hose in. Not hard, all things considered. Cheers, Stork.

Gday, that sounds like hot soak then. This happens to pretty much all engines. Basically what happens is the heat from the engine while sitting for a couple of minutes evaporates some fuel from the carb and makes a rich mixture in the manifold. For this hot start, just crack the throttle open about 1/4, which lets more air in to balance the mixture. It should start much easier after that. Cheers, Stork

Gday, the Dykes ring is a special fitment - if it had one before it can only use that ring because of the shape. They are the same type as in TY yamaha's. They do work well. Cheers, Stork

Gday, Small Coil rewinds in Sth Aus or a couple of other places will rewind it for much less than the electronic ignition kit. They are a pretty straight forward coil. You could do it your self if you really wanted to. New ones are probably available still I guess no more than $100. Check aftermarket also at your local bike shop. Fit a new condenser, its old enough now any way. Cheers, Stork