isaacely

Hi, is your bike a 156cc minerelli engine? If it is I lowered the gearing on mine by changing the size of the spockets, it now uses 11 tooth at the gearbox and 56 on the rear wheel. I upped the rear sprocket by 4 teeth and it made a noticeable difference, now I can choose between 1st for tight grippy sections, 2nd for a bit more speed for climbs and even 3rd is possible if you can get a run up. If your bike has 10 tooth front sprocket then I would go up on the rear sprocket size, I think one tooth on the font is the same as 3-4 on the rear.Remember if you get a bigger rear sprocket then you will probably also need a longer chain. Making the front smaller and the rear larger lowers the gearing and the opposite way round raises it. If you do lower the gearing it does affect the overall top speed and makes it very responsive at slow speed. Good luck Alan.

Hi, i'm just after any advice someone might be able to give me regarding piston / bore clearance when reboring the barrel of my villiers 32a engine. I have been given sizes ranging from 2 to 5 thousandths of an inch, what is the best clearance to have? Also where is the best place to get a new piston and do you need to fit a head gasket, I have been told it is not required. Thanks for any help you can give me.

I found this blog by accident and thought other folk might be interested in looking as its got loads of old trials videos on it that I had not seen before. The only snag is its in French. Cheers Alan. http://trial-en-ancienne.skyrock.com/

Are you sure your not limp wristed.

Hi, it could be something simple and easy to fix. Check that the fuel is flowing into the carb and that the fuel filter in the tap or the tank breather are not blocked are the jets clear? Can the choke stick on? Check the points gap is correct and the ignition timing is right. Is the rubber manifold perished between the barrel and carb? If the engine has been stood unused for a long time the crankshaft oil seals can become dry and may be leaking allowing air past them into the crankcase. I am no montesa expert but if it was mine that what I would start looking at. Good luck Alan.

Hi,try Wilsons Farm just to the west of Barton on Humber. Find Far Ings Bird Reserve and keep going down a track until you come to a farm,there is a quarry where you can practice for a fee,I think its about

Hi, when adding spacers use something thin like a washer, keep adding until the front end feels a bit harder. You will know when you have added too many as the forks will top out if you lift the front end in a wheelie or go over a bump, its a case of experimenting untill you find what feels best for you. It will get harder to get the fork top nuts on as you add the washers due to the spring being compressed more, lift the bike onto a stand so the front wheel is off the ground to help get the nuts back on. I hope that helps Alan.

Try this link it should lead to a diagram of the gearbox. Good luck. Alan http://www.lortim.demon.co.uk/vsih/gearbox.htm

Hi, The fantic 200 is a great twinshock when running right, it should start easily when it is working properly. The engine has to be in neutral with the clutch out to start it, thats the way they are. If you can get it running right you wont be disappointed.

Hi, I have a fantic 200 and they are great bikes mine has some side play in the crank but it does not seem to make any difference and I have done about 15 trials on it with no problems,keep riding it and see how it runs . As long as mine runs ok I will keep riding mine! I do not think there is a haynes manual for this bike but a owners manual can be be bought on ebay.

Hi, Great idea,I started competing on twinshocks about 18 months ago and really enjoy it. Some clubs concentrate on pre65 bikes and twinshocks others on modern bikes and some let anything in at the same time, there are usually different routes depending on your skill level. Any bike is good to start on but the more competitive riders in my club tend to ride fantics, majestys and honda tlrs. The rider is the deciding factor once the bike is half decent. Give it a try and good luck.

Hi, I also have a fantic 200 and have looked for information on the internet, here are a few websites that sell spares and have a engine diagram. http://www.frankfieldfantic.co.uk/ http://www.fantictrials.co.uk/ http://fanticmotor.free.fr/ My engine is pretty quiet and runs well so I have hardly touched it, there is a guy on ebay who sells an owners manual on cd which is cheap and has basic info. I dont think you can buy a proper workshop manual. They are a great bike good luck with the restoration. Alan.

Hi, I found this site on yahoo forums, it has info on bantams and these pictures, http://autos.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/BSA...tos/browse/6849 click on this link to see the photos. Alan.

Hi, Can anyone explain how to set up my bantam b175 so that it does not need a battery for the engine to run.It is used for trials so does not have lights etc,I am trying to make it as simple as possible without spending a fortune on electronic ignition, can the alternator be connected straight to the coil so I can remove the battery and regulator? Also does anyone know of a source for buying a tucked in high level exhaust or the right size of silencer required or is it just guess work? Thanks for any info replied.

Hi, I'm new to bantams and are looking for a bit of advice. I have a bantam b175 trials bike that I have just bought as a non runner,I started by checking the points and timing, I could not get the timing correct and took off the points cam as it seemed to be in the wrong position to get the timing correct. The cam fits on a taper but there does not seem to be any way of holding it in the right place, there is a small groove in the back of the cam but nothing on the crank for it to slot on. Should there be a peg or something for it to fit on? I would be grateful if anyone could offer any help. Thanks Alan.

Hi, I found this on the bultaco forum, I think it should help you out. Very often on all Bultaco's - people buy clutch plates etc - when it is usually clutch adj that is incorrect. Not sure which manual you are using ( bin is best place for most of them) One problem I have found over 30 years of adjusting them is that it is best to go the whole hog - adjust and maintain whole clutch mechanism in one go - then thing work really well and is also lighter. My method. May take a liitle longer - but is best. 1. I assume you have already looked at plates. On yours they will be all steel - not as easy to see wear as people pretend - and frankly although I have sold a lot - not as many as any other make - they are not a serious wear item as long as not abused etc. If totally shot - the all steel plates will show real signs of wear when you look at them - but next steps will confirm it anyway. If you do find they are very worn - obviously you can but new ones - or if cash is tight - you can go over each one with a centre pop - but do it in a surface plate - and do not go mad. 2. You need to disconect all the cable and mechanism. By far easiest method is to remove the timing side cover. Remove the clutch plates from other side by undoing the nuts - or if you have the post and pin hub centre - compress springs and remove pins. There is a special tool - but you can easily make one. After removing plates, remove what I call clutch mushroom ( about 40mm with flat head ) Remove clutch rod - by pushing out from either side with small screwdriver etc. CARE YOU DO NOT lose clutch ball. Now is a good time to clean out the centre hole in the gearshaft that the clutch rod runs in - they tend to rust/crud up and a good clean with WD 40 - while working the clutch rod back and fo - or better still a similar dia piece of rod. Carefull if you are tempted to put a piece of rag in there you do not get it stuck. 3. Replace Clutch mushroom into hub on clutch side. 4. Re- place plates. 5. Check clutch thrust bearing is in place on outer clutch/spring retainer plate. Before you do this slacken of adj nut ( it takes 21mm socket) so that you can easily turn adj screw in centre of plate. Use a little grease to hold thrust bearing in place when you put on outer plate. 6. Replace clutch cups and springs. Good idea to check no-one has put an odd ( short) spring in here. If you have post and pin - you have no control on spring tension - just compress spring - with dished washer on top and replace pins - care - or they fly accross workshop - this is why special tool is handy. If you have threaded clutch hub - several methods really. I - bottom springs - using a tubalar spanner - but when I say bottom - do not go mad or you will shear the threaded part. Just turn nut until it feels as if it does not need to go further - then slacken each one 4 complete turns. easier to count if you have a rod through your tube spanner - but easy enough whatever you do. This will usually leave about two complete thread showing at the top ( I mean you can see two threads on top of each clutch nut. If you do not fancy the bottoming method - you can just go to two complete threads showing in first place - but I prefer to bottom them. You have not replaced any clutch rod/ball etc yet 7. Now you can find out if it was an adj problem or plate wear - as without rod and ball etc - and with the adjuster screw turned out half a turn from full in ( so it does not actually touch thrust bearing) You can replace k/start lever and test. With your hand you can leave the timing case off. If you are going to really test it - and need to kick it - best to but timing case back on as you are not so likely to bend k/start shaft. You can leave it off - but kick carefully - do not jump all over it! You still have no clutch / clutch ball fitted. No slip - your plates are OK and it is adj. Slip - plates are shot. If plates are ok - or if you have needed to fit new ones - you can now carry on adjustment. Take timing cover back off. Carefully refit clutch ball. Refit Clutch rod. On end of rod where it enters sleeve ( sprox) gear there should be a felt washer - to stop crud going in. A small disc of piece of rubber inner tube with slit works just as well. Good time now to remove the clutch operating arm - and really clean and grease it so it is a smooth fit in the timing cover. It is retained by a shoukdered bolt. Check that the flat on the opertaing arm has an undamaged - half ball bearing shape on it ( it often gets damaged) Clean off any burrs on arm etc - and also check that the bore of the timing case where it fits is clean/smooth. Graese and turn by hand to ensure nice smooth action. Replace timing case. New gasket is always best. DO NOT FIT cable. 8. Adj as follows. Your clutch arm should be more or less positioned to it is at about right angles across he engine ie about 90 degrees to line of frame - actually just back from there is best - about one notch futher back towards rear. ( no more) On other side turn the adjusting screw in - until all the play you can feel by hand on the operating arm is taken up - and then back off a little so you have about 2mm free play. In other words you can just wobble the clutch arm a few mm forward by hand until it becomes solid. Take up excessive play by turning adj screw - but never make it solid - so there is no free play - you need a few mm slack. Inevitabvly when you try to tighten lock nut it will go out of adj - best to use 21 tubular with srewdriver through it to hold adj screw stready- or just use 21mm socket with T bar and when ready give the t bar a wack towards front of bike! You may need a few goes to get this right. Experiment! Object is that you can move operating arm - by hand just few mm back and fo without feeling solid. Absolute - no cable fitted. Final position will be clutch arm pointting back a little from halfway position. If you need to move arm take off spline and re-position- but do not have it more than a little further back than just past halfway. Re-fit cable - and adjust at h/bar lever until you have 2-3mm free play at h/bar end. If you find you have too much play at h/bar - either the cable is wrong/stretched - or the clutch rod is worn short or the clutch ball is the wrong one. Do not compensate for this by moving clutch opertaing arm - fix the problem. If you really wish to set it up ( but not as critical as people think) pull cluch lever in and press k/start - clutch will slip - and you will see plates turn. Observe outer spring retainer plate - it will wobble. If you have the threaded type clutch posts - you can play at adjusting nuts a LITTLE - in or out until pressure plate runs true - then thread some lockwire through nuts etc If you have post pin - there is sod all you can do. This will work

Try Bob Wright, heres his website address. http://www.r2wtrials.co.uk/html_files/fantic.html

Thanks for the reply, the 40lb springs do not seem to bottom out so I will carry on using those, I think I just need to find the right position for the ring to preload the spring. I was surprised that one position would make it feel different.

Hi, Has anyone any advice on what settings to use on the betor rear shocks on my Fantic 200, I have a set of 40lb and 50lb springs and have tried moving the preload ring which not only makes the suspension firmer but also makes the steering quicker when the ring is raised. I weigh about 14 stones , what settings are other twinshock riders using?

Thanks for the advice, do you need to remove the flywheel to adjust the timing?

Can anyone offer any advice how best to check the ignition timing on my fantic 200, I have checked it using the marks on the flywheel and the 2 lines on the ignition pickup is this accurate enough? Is it possible to use a timing strobe light? I have a dial gauge to put in the spark plug hole but how do you tell when the spark will occur? I am not sure the timing is out but the reason I am trying to check is that the engine has ran backwards a few times when at a trial making me go in reverse! So this is not helping my results much. Thanks for the advice

Try these, I have had good service from this business. http://www.trialsbits.co.uk/product_info.p...products_id=899

realy happy with the brits in moto gp and 125 qualifying, well done ive been waiting 25 years for good results keep it up, good luck.

I will have to try and make friends with a farmer or landowner or god forbid pay hard earned cash to ride. I am usually a responsible citizen and agree with not giving trials riders a bad name.

Hi, just advising anyone who may use Eppleworth Quarry at South Cave for practising not to go anymore, I have been going for a few years with no problems but today me and a mate were warned by the police for trespassing. There was only the two of us there not doing any harm to anyone when the next thing we see a police helicopter circling around, we think it must be for something else and carry on riding, the next thing it is 20 feet above us and a copper is waving to us to leave. At the gate are 3 police vehicles and 4 officers and they gave us a stop and search warning and tell us if we are caught trespassing again they will confiscate our bikes. I know we probably should not have been there but it did seem over the top and no one has said anything before. People have been going here for donkeys years but it seems to be over now.