jse

Jimmie, I've used the SilentSport type loose packing since it first came out. It's got to be the easiest to use for the long, oval silencers with tight clearances and as long as you don't pack it too tight, it works great. We used to be able to get the OEM formed, slip in packing but that hasn't been available for some time as far as I know. I've had very good luck with it. Jon

Even if there is no fluid weeping under the M/C boot, another thing to check at the M/C is, how far does the plunger go into the M/C bore until pressure builds up. If the M/C seal is worn (and therefore a smaller diameter than new), it may travel down the bore a little distance until there is tension on the seal outer lip as most M/C bores are very slightly tapered with normal use. A M/C rebuild kit will quickly fix this. Of course, this assumes that the lever screw adjustment is allowing the M/C piston to return to it's stop at the circlip (so the system can "self adjust") and the lever is adjusted out far enough from the bars to get a reasonable travel of the M/C piston. Jon

My guess also, a new o-ring will help. What we did with the early single pucks was to lap the center mating surfaces (240 grit on glass works, figure "8" motion with even pressure and use a little water), which seemed to greatly reduce the caliper halves flexing in use. Jon

What you bought will work fine. Change it often. Jon

A thin small long stem flatblade screw in between the bar and grip, spray a little alcohol in, push screwdriver in more and spray, work screwdriver around a little and grip should break loose and be able to slide on. Just be sure not to puncture grip. Jon

That kickstart assembly thrust washer is necessary. They usually attach themselves to the sidecase with oil surface tension and then fall off in the dirt, it's common for riders to lose them. Jon

Some can be a bear. Try spraying some alcohol on the bar and in the grip next time.Jon

No problem. Francisco and I have had a previous conversation as to high-altitude jetting so I knew what he would be using the bike for. Compression is very important at high altitudes which is why thought he would have a better outcome with a ring change to keep the bike working effeciently under the operating conditions he would encounter. Those of us that have been to the Ute Cup in Colorado know how cool the views are, but can you imagine riding up in the Andes? Wow! Jon

I think the 5W-30 or ATF should work fine, each has a little different engagement profile. I also ran Rock Oil Lite in the 370 as it as available on the West Coast when I lived there. I also ran 650 and 700 cc's and could not feel the difference. From my experience, the key is to change it often, Trials stresses clutches more than any other motorcycle sport so you want to keep your tranny oil fresh and moisture free. Jon ps. That guy on the Gas Gas websites is really my Evil Twin...... ps.ps. If you want the final say on the GasGas, talk with Jim Snell in the U.S. or Factory Kev in the U.K., those guys have forgotten more than I'll ever know about them.

I like you guys, that's funny... What you probably don't know about Francisco is that he uses his Trials bike for climbing mountain trails in the Andes, up to 13,000 ft altitude so the ring wear in his bike is probably a little more than what we experience (more sustained loads). A fresh set of rings is probably a good idea in his case. When measuring ring gap, you need to set the ring at the original bore diameter (such as at the top of the cylinder above where the installed ring tops out). For used rings, this will give a more accurate measure of specific wear. For new rings, this is important in that, if you set ring end gap in the middle of the cylinder, the end gap will be too tight when the piston drops to BDC, as the bore is tapered.

That usually will fix it. Another common problem is that someone may have "adjusted" the tab that limits the float arm drop and the arm is down too far, which can cause the float needle valve to get cocked in the valve bore and the carb bowl will flood. Jon

I always ran Dexron ATF in my 96 JTR370 and never had any problems. I did, however, change it often.

Yea, Mitch, you're wrong! Just kidding!!!! I agree, rings are a wear item although in a well-maintained Trials bike, they last an amazing long time. We have no idea of the level of care this bike had so we can only guess, a process race tuners like me REALLY hate to do. What we can do is rather than act on guesses, it would be a good idea to actually measure the relative ring wear by checking the ring end gap. Figure than a set of factory installed rings has a ring end gap of .1mm (.0039") per inch of cylinder bore (kinda standard for most 2T Trials bikes), measure the actual R.E.G. of this engine and compare. This would tell us if we needed to install rings. I would think that maybe a 20-25% increase in REG would be a good time to put new rings in. As for the piston, I'd measure the skirt clearance and the installed skirt clearances I've seen are around .0015 to .002" for a new engine. The cylinder lining and pistons use a ceramic material, Silicon Carbide, the cylinder in a Nickel matrix and the piston in an Aluminum matrix. Pistons generally wear at a slightly greater rate than the cylinder linings, so you'll find pistons will need replacing before the cylinder lining. Jon

It might be the type of oil you are running. ATF, for instance, has a special anti-foaming additive. Jon

All the replacement clutches I've got the last few of years have had the twin 2mm steel plates. I've got a set of the "shims" in all the sizes but haven't used one in a long time. Jon

My thoughts also. In normal hands (most of us) a Trials engine is really understressed and with any care, they will go for years without major work. Regular maintenance is the key and go over all the fasteners now and then (like the head if you want the o-rings to last) and you'll be in good shape. I've done the roadracing stuff and there is little comparison as to when to replace parts.

I have my own personal feelings about the FIM rule changes but am of the opinion that I'm going to wait final judgement to see how it actually works in operation. We have two sets of rules, no-stop and stop-allowed, here in the U.S. for Vintage/Modern events and I don't see either set "destroying the Sport". I'm hoping the NATC does not blindly follow the FIM but responds to their constituants needs/wants, whatever they are, rather than ideology. Jon

The thinner "spring" is stock from the factory so you already have it installed. The problem you may face is that the fingers are too high (clutch pack is too thin, probably from wear), which reduces the pressure on the clutch pack and leads to slipping. In the older GG clutches, the clutch pack width was adjusted by using "shims" or the steel plates in the clutch of different thickness (1.3,1.4,1.5,1.6mm-there was supposed to be a 1.8mm available but I've never seen one). The GG clutches made the last few years have the 2 steel plates of 2mm thickness and the pack width is adjusted by a single fiber plate of differing thickness (the other two are the same thickness), which is always installed first. You can't "adjust" the clutch in your bike to make it wider with the older type "shims" as all of them are less than 2mm and would make the pack thinner, going in the opposite direction you need. You may have to get a new clutch unless you can find an old thick fiber plate (the one used for adjustment) that you can substitute for one the the two that are the same thickness. Jon

I'd say that this is a good combination for you. Take some time to find out what to do as far as maintenance is concerned. General tire pressure to start with is 6 psi front and 4 psi rear (that would be your next question)... You're going to have a lot of fun.........welcome! Jon

Looks like the head has been welded. Jon

The riders I know that use the 225 kit have nothing but good things to say about it's performance. They also found the flywheel addition to be beneficial. Jon

If Steve can understand Copey, I'm afraid he's headed over to the Dark Side...... Jon

I would always use the clutch when shifting. The design of the Trials transmission/shifting mechanism is quite different from your other dirtbike. For one thing, your other dirtbike does not have aluminum shift forks. Jon

I'm not sure what the actual setting is, I usually go by "feel", but would estimate that to be about 18 ft lbs. The shaft has fine threads (as I remember, the shaft is also slotted) and there is a locking washer and the basket is not prone to side loading (the loading is between the shaft and hub internal contact so 18-20 lbs should do it is my guess. Jon