ChrisCH

I can only draw on the experience of my wife's Evo and my TRS. The Evo brakes are less good and the bike is a bit gutless compared to my 280. She (the OH) loves the Beta and finds it "perfect". She has been a road rider for a long time but no off road. (Current bike Ducati monster, last bike CBR600RR) The extra power of the TRS means it climbs on much less throttle compared to her smaller Evo. Beyond that they are both good trials bikes capable of far far more than either of the riders. My bike spat me off the back the first time I rode it and was a big step up from the Rev3. It took a couple of hours but the engine only revs as far as you turn the throttle and the drive stops turning the wheel if you pull the clutch in. I've got very used to it now and love it. Still scares me if you go over a big obstacle and give it too much, but that's just me - crap.

LOL. My TRS is 2017 and I am nearly as bad as you at hanging my nose over something else. (I look at ebay more or less every day - passes the time at work.....) If I were you I would look at something that will last you as you improve so more like the TRS One R 250. The Beta is not a bad bike but you should look at the 250 and a newish one. If they "push" you a bit that's not a bad thing IMHO. A motorcycle is not a camel it cannot "get away from you" - you're just riding it badly.

It's a man thing. New hobby - do it two weeks - buy a million quid's worth of new kit. Get bored 6 months later. Ride the Rev - work on your skills. Stop looking for a new one. I would bet you a tenner if you buy a Beta 200 you will be shopping round for something else in 18 months. Use your power of obsession to obsess about balance not bikes.

We had a 250 Rev 3 and the missus upgraded to an Evo 250. (I looked for a 250 TRS but had to buy a 280 as that was all I could get at the time). The Evo is not fundamentally different in my view - I found the front a bit lighter and it lifts easier than the Rev, but then I have got more skilled (ha ha did I really write that??) so it could just be that. The TRS is a much much better bike but you need to be a bit gentle with it. I got used to it after a few rides and the Evo now seems gutless by comparison. Just back from a ride this afternoon in the mud. There were over 60 riders and as many bikes as you can think of. Several Evo 200s. My mate has an old Rev 3 and still rides rings round me. Missus has big smile and had a great day (but then it is muggins that gets the cleaning task). One of the best riders on an AJP trail bike with lights and winkers! Ny all means get a new bike - we all are big kids and want a new toy, but it really is not going to make much odds to be honest. The reason we upgraded was the Rev 3 rear shock is discontinued and the exhaust rubs the back tyre. The Evo is a nicer bike for sure but not mega different unless you are shelling out big time for a 2-3 year old factory. FWIW the Rev had better brakes than the Evo. The braktec units of the TRS (and most other brands) are light years better. The diaphragm clutch is nice too. By all means get an Evo but soon you will want a TRS 😁

They all sound sensible to me. The one big thing I noticed between the wife's Beta and my TRS were the brakes. Maybe it is just the Beta was an old bike (2014) and the components were worn out? However, I have now fitted the braktec master and Galfer disc and pads to the bike and it is transformative. The TRS is still a bit better but not really enough to make any issue of. The Beta now has one finger braking and very good modulation. I have never riden the Factory version of the Beta but it has the braktec master so might be pretty decent. I agree with you about the forks and shock. Maybe go to the M4 fork and leapfrog the other brands? Just going to 39mm would give owners the option without a new yoke and a lot of grief with the wheel and so on. I plan to replace the rear shock later this year - secondhand bike prices make it sensible to upgrade the components rather than change the whole bike. The missus wants an Electric Motion next time if we can get a test ride and afford the deal.

At a guess none. Exactly the same figure as from ethanol additive petrol.

There are more compatability issues with ether than there are with ethanol: https://mykin.com/rubber-chemical-resistance-chart-3 Although there may be less with the water absorption.

For a load bearing task I agree with the tow bar fitter - go for a fixed flange bar. Detachable bars are designed to take a pulling load. The Oset is lighter than a full bike but you are probably near the nose weight limit with the Oset and the rack.

Aspen is a trade name for a brand of alkylate fuel. https://www.aspenfuels.com/knowledge/knowledgebank/what-is-alkylate-petrol/

Ethanol is not a vegetable oil. It is alcohol. If you remove ethanol from the blended pump fuel you change it to an unknown which may be OK or it might screw up the engine. Not wise IMHO.

Aspen seems to me to be "A Good Thing" (I agree about the fumes jon). The problem for modern bikes is it is only 95 octane. There is a "racing" version but I cannot see it advertised in the UK. Demon Tweeks have a non Ethanol 99 fuel "R Racing" thirty quid for ten litres.

Very true. Crazy that people wanted to pollute the air with lead just as an upper cylinder lubricant. The one hard fact seems to be that ethanol absorbs water and this can cause some issues. I think the OP was right to ask for more feedback as the Yam is an older bike and they seem to be the ones affected if one accepts the anecdotal evidence. The problem with older equipment is that some of the fuel related parts will be after market and so people will have different experiences. Replacement fuel lines for example or carb parts, inline filters etc. Two people with "the same" bike will have different experiences. It is essential that the actual material is known not just "rubber". Needless to say the companies that make and sell additives and Aspen fuel will be keen to find fault to promote their products. Needless to say some of the "ethanol safe" labels might not be 100% true either 😁

You can find plenty of data if you look. The chart here: https://mykin.com/rubber-chemical-resistance-chart-3 shows different rubbers' suitability with many chemicals including ethanol. The key ones are nitrile and butyl which are common rubber compounds for O rings. Neither show satisfactory. However there are plenty of others that score well. I can only conclude that some things where people report issues (like garden equipment mentioned above) must have the cheaper compounds. Millions of cars and motorcycles all round the world seem to be OK.

Ignore the doom mongers - the problems with ethanol come from its ability to absorb water. It has given some problems with fibreglass tanks but other than that it generally is OK. Older bikes are 'problematical' only because they were built pre-ethanol and the manufacturers did not take the future in to account. So "to be on the safe side" manufacturers tend to say "no" so as not to open themselves to any claims. In theory the water absorbed could be an issue (especially if the bike is in a damp shed). The water reduces the octane rating. "Super" is only E5 if you are at all bothered. My lawnmower stands all winter (in a damp shed) and still starts first pull in the spring. I think this issue is rather exagerated a lot by the tin foil hat brigade.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255293701755?hash=item3b70b0be7b:g:H2QAAOSwR7hhxNjf

I also enjoy the TRS280 and when I ride the wife's Beta 250 it is gutless by comparison. The extra power makes it so easy to climb because you can climb nearly anything with so little throttle. In soft muddy conditions you might need the clutch and a higher gear but I find a low tyre pressure is OK. I am not any where near good enough to "need" the power and still working my way up to obstacles over about 60cm - that is about my limit now. The 280 is often described as "intermediate" but I find it OK and I am more "Noddy".

What tyre pressure are you running? My 280 is powerful enough to break the traction easily in wet conditions. I am lazy and often do not bother to check or adjust the pressure but the difference between (for example) 3psi and 7psi is huge. The missus has a Beta 250 and an IRC rear and it copes well with the poor surfaces. My Michelin loses pressure and so I tend to pump it up a little too much to compensate and (as I am lazy) often run a bit too high. I am not sure that such drastic measures as a change of bike should be needed?

Putoline Nano Trans

I am sure you will master it quickly. Firstly just one finger on the clutch? It is the #1 control device - not the throttle. If you are used to road bikes it is a bit odd at first. Second do not rev the bike very much. A 250 two stroke is powerful enough to do most things without a lot of revs. Listen to the engine tone on this -

We started with a (shared) Rev 3 250 and my missus used it all the time so I had to buy the TRS. We upgraded the Rev to an Evo soon after. The big difference I noticed was the older Rev 3 needed fork compression to de-weight the front compared to both the newer Evo and my TRS. The Evo is lighter and more nimble but the Rev is not a bad bike. A guy at the club has one and rides well on it (far better than me). You need to slip the clutch a lot on a trials bike. If you pop it then the front wheel will lift and if you are not far enough forward it will spit you off. My TRS spat me off a few times when I got it as it was so much more powerful than the old Rev 3. You don't need much revs most of the time if you are not climbing a steep slope. Even then slip the clutch to keep the speed under control. From your description I would say persevere. If you can control a big road bike you can control a little trials bike. My missus still struggles with the clutch (she has a Ducati Monster for road bike) and that, plus a lack of confidence are her issues. Both Betas have spat her off at various times and this is the heart of the confidence problem. If you pull in the clutch the bike will not spit you off the back. I really doubt an old bike (with a cable clutch) is going to help you much if I am honest.

This subject is one that gets a lot of people arguing but is actually quite easy to research. There are a lot of published O ring compatability charts, one that covers pretty much everything including ethanol is here: https://www.allorings.com/o-ring-compatibility One problem is working out what the material is if you do not buy the O ring from a specialist supplier and get a "standard" O ring. There really is no such thing as "just rubber". As you can see there are two types of Viton so the above comment is correct for one type not the other. The shift from E5 to E10 is not really that significant so if the bike was OK with 5% it is probably OK with 10%. The compatability charts are for 100% of the selected chemical. People also overlook the many other chemicals in petrol because there is a lot of nonsense being promoted about E10 by the same sorts of folk that promoted nonsense about the removal of lead from petrol. O rings are generally pennies but the problem is where to buy just one and whether or not you believe the eBay seller or bike shop as to what material it really is.

These guys can make them if you cannot find ready to go https://www.feked.com/wheels/wheel-spokes/universal-spokes/

Get an electric bike and it will solve the noise issue and let you ride as much as you want. The other ICE bikes are just as loud if you gun them.

http://81.139.49.104/news/2010/3/toni-bou-talks-about-his-impending-trip-to-scotland/

Do what suits you best. During the lockdown there were closed to club events so being a member of more than one would have got you more rides. I think a lot of that has relaxed now. Our club also had a physical distance limit (also gone) so multiple membership would have not been such a big deal. Personally I would support the club that you like and enjoy and where you get on with the people. My club is really good and I try to support them as much as possible. Some of the good riders (that group does not include me I might say) are multi members and are bothered about scores and so on. As an ACU member you can enter other (open) events so not a big deal. If you join more than one club then more than one club gets your subscription fees. I am sure they are not going to mind that 😁