billyt

John Are these disks in PAL or NTSC format? Will they play on a North American DVD player? Thanks.

"The older I get - the faster I was" " Dave in my case I think back The older I get the I realize how stupid I was when I was younger. What was I doing letting two Spanish guys tie a rope around my waist swinging me over the mid part of a waterfall and telling me to catch Jordi if he falls, **** come to think of it maybe it was the bike I was supposed to catch as it was the only water-cooled Beta out there??? LOL If only Dale M would release the VHS old tapes on DVD I could see that madness again LOL............. Dave , Is there big smile because I am a long way away from BC? If so cheeky monkey! LOL

Dan gets the prize! Pigeon Forge TN There is a video out there of me hanging from a waterfall as minder/mechanic with Jordi'e brother. His brother had me tied around the rope to catch Jordi on the waterfall section if he should need help as there was no where to stop on the slippery wet rocks. Waste of time as Jordi went right up the waterfall as if it was not there. Ah memories!

Bang on Dave. we still have something in common as we are both bald now! LOL

NOPE! Try again! HINT: First US exposure of water cooled Beta

I look like a Roy Orbinson wannabe in this picture LOL Any guesses were this was taken? And what round?

Just trying to learn how to post pictures. This is me on a 125cc Beta

Good one Steve........ And I vouch that he sounds like Hank Hill, **** they all do down here! LOL That was my original point Steve. What has the forks on the beta stopped him from doing? Too much time in the theory books and not enough time on the bike honing his technique. Any more earthquakes up there? Cheers

"If we all agree to the above then we can proceed. If not, lets get the basic design of the forks hashed out so we can make set-up changes and know what we are changing otherwise its meaningless. Again, maybe I am the only one who isn't in the know, but I doubt it." WHY................ Some of the good folks on this site have figured out how these forks work long before you! Some people do not care in how they work they just want them to work. The bike has to work in harmony not just a all out intensive focus on a set of forks! Some folks need to know all the technical details in how every part works on the bike. I am by nature the latter as it seems you are also! Nothing wrong with that at all. I have been curious about how all this works from a technical view point for about thirty two years now in the trails arena. God I messed up a LOT of bikes and bikes parts due to my curiosity. Hopefully I have learned something from my apprenticeship of life in trials? I applaud your curiosity and encourage it, but do not forget those whom came before you! Please tell us how long you have been riding trials? I can bet that you rode motocross or enduros before venturing into trials? There is no doubt that you have some technical abilities, but you come across as newbie to trials and one who will not take the advice of those who have been there done that! I am by training a degreed Mechanical & Electrical Engineer and can talk technicalities and theory all day long with you. BUT there comes a time to put the calculator and books aside and trust experience, in both experiments, years of riding TRIALS, making many mistakes in trying things, by those who came before you with technical abilities, and there are many! Do you honestly think that you are the first one to try get specs from Paoli, Beta on the forks? Are you trying to say that changing the oil viscosity in the compression fork does nothing? You need less theory and some practicality. If you are saying this then you are also saying that all who have tried this have their head up the a*** at the results! "If my understanding above is correct, then oil viscosity does not have any affect on the magnitude of the compression resistance which means changing the oil wt in this fork leg does nothing." Bull**** to the above statement: Do this experiment: Drain your left fork leg oil, measure it, put in the same amount you took out. BUT put in 2.5 weight fork oil. Go ride! Drain your left fork leg oil: Measure the amount you took out: Replace it with 15 > 20 weight oil. Go ride! If you tell me there is no difference in how the bike feels acts rides then you have no business being on a dirt bike let alone a trails bike then you need to stick your head back into your theory books to figure out why! I give up!

Dan you bring up a VERY important point. Traditional trials tells us that one should be able to stand on the pegs and move one's body weight up and down, subsequently the bike should move up and down as one unit, front and end back end in harmony, with todays riding style who the hell knows? LOL. Lots of usage of stored energy as Dan mentions.

I will address each of your comments: First off it is not my idea! Lots of people I know use this simple, quick, cheap method of stopping the bottoming out. "While your idea will slow the forks compression speed down the probability of the fork being harsh has been increased and the front to rear balance of the bike will be off." Obviously you have not tried this as there is nothing harsh about it. It is a slow controlled compression of the front forks.It is a proven method! The bottoming out scenario we are talking about here is a downhill or a drop off, so the bike is already out of balance. "Also after being heated thicker oil is going to change viscosity more than thinner oil will." That comment is lost on me ????? "Having the correct front and rear springs made for your ride weight costs about $230" How the hell do you figure out $230? for front and back end Most of the springs for trials come from Europe and a rear spring alone cost anywhere from $200 > $300 alone with shipping , duties etc. Think of this, to get a heavy front spring to compress one needs to place more energy transfer into it. That can be done by the rider being heavier or proper loading of the riders weight into the front forks. This bottoming out issue is not a simple as just installing a heavier spring. A heavier spring will take more energy to compress it obviously, but once compressed it will return a lot more energy back in the return stroke making the rebound quicker and less controllable. To overcome this more energy and stop it rebounding far to quickly you have no choice but to adjust the re-bound adjustment screw and possible there will not be enough adjustment left to slow the fork down due to rider weight and/or how heavy a spring you put in, or you can always change the re-bound fork oil for a heavier oil and between the re-bound adjuster and heavier oil get the desired effect you seek OR you will be caught in a vicious circle of springs/oil/adjustments etc. Do you want a controlled fork or a pogo stick? Basically trying to stop bottoming out by just a spring alone will transfer the problem into the return stroke. It is much easier to dissipate the energy in the return stroke of a lighter compression spring than a heavy return spring. By using a heavier fork oil in the compression side less energy is transferred into the return stroke. Basically if it takes 200lbs of force to compress a spring it will spring back with maybe 80% of that energy. Here is something for you to think about based upon physics and several riders experiences. I will exaggerated this in order to make my point. If one were to remove the front forks ability to compress and you road forward pulling in the brakes and try to do a nose wheelie to kick the back end to one side it would be EXTREMELY difficult to do! Why? In making the front end so ridged one has changed the pivot point at the triple clamp making it much higher with reference to the back end of the bike. When the forks travel down as they do in a normal bike front end they lower the pivot point with reference to the back end. If the forks could travel down further than normal it would much easier to get the back end in the air. The point here is this. I have witnessed and tried guys bikes who had stiffened their front end to the point that they could no longer get the back end of the bike up in the as they could prior to making the front end so stiff. You want all the travel in the front, you just want to do it in a controlled manner. A REALY stiff front set of forks will cause the front to push rather than turn. Once again the lower triple clamp effect from the forks compressing is critical to a turning correctly. In the prior example of removing any movement of the front forks one would have a very hard time in making the bike tract around a wet loose turn. Your milage may vary depending upon your weight riding style etc. To me the bottom line is that everybody should be able to customize their bike the way they want to. In doing so they should know what technical options are out there to do so. Changing springs and re-valving or shimming is one way, changing oils is another way or a combination of both. To each their own. In either case starting off simple is always the way to go, one step at time, change one thing and see what happens I also agree with Dave Rhodes comment about not making any changes until the bike has a good few hours on it! One other distinction is this: I have seen people get confused with the forks mechanically bottoming out Vs Hydraulic lock. Mechanically Bottoming out is the fork reaching the end of its travel, hydraulic lock is when they have put too much oil in the fork! To check this out or verify which one it is do the following: wrap a cable tie around one of the fork sliders. Slide it all the way down to the fork seal. Go ride, the cable tie will be pushed up by the travel of the fork and will stay put on the slider as to were it was slide up by the fork leg as it travels. The cable tie will become a witness as to the amount of travel the fork is making. Common sense when looking at were it stays will tell you if your are using a lot of suspension travel or barely any. In other words if you have six inches of travel in your forks and the cable tie has moved two inches from the travel of the fork leg and you felt the fork being restricted and at the end of its travel you properly have too much oil in the fork i.e. hydraulic lock. On the other hand if the cable tie has moved all the way up the leg and you felt the forks bottoming out then you are mechanically bottoming out the suspension. PS: Ron it is TRAYNOR not Trainer later mon ami.

Not with standing all the technical research behind Livlob & Nif40 I and I do respect their technical knowledge! For the real world & 99% of club riders out there. Dump out the stock Italian fork oil that Beta got from Olive garden salads. Use 12 > 15 weight fork oil in the compression side, set sag! (should take care of bottoming out) Use 2.5 > 5 weight fork oil in the rebound side, set rebound adjustment per preference. (will rebound quickly) Go ride and enjoy! The Beta front forks are not perfect, no trials bike are, but they are dam good stock! This is a pragmatic, cheap, quick answer/test from one who has experienced MANY Beta's and has also experienced the bottoming out on drop offs and I only weigh 150lbs. Think about it! There is no need for the same viscosity of oil in each fork if they are performing different tasks? The other thing to keep in mind is temperature and altitude. The higher the temperature the thinner the oil is going to get this will dramatically change the way your fork works regardless off what shim stack or spring changes you make per Livlob & Nif40. The oil's job in any fork is to change the flow of oil into heat there bye displacing energy into the fork leg surface area, basically the fork leg acts like a heat sink drawing energy away from the slider. Basically if you ride in a hot part of the country your fork oil is going to get thinner and thinner as you ride that day. A 10 weight oil in the fork at the start of your ride in your compression fork may very quickly act like a 5 weight oil causing you to bottom out very easily as it heats up. By starting out with heavy oil (12 > 15) in the compression side it may act like a 10 weight oil still affording good compression resistance making the chances of bottoming out less after it heats up. The same is true for the rebound fork oil. It too will get thinner in a hot area as you ride. The thinner it gets the quicker the rebound will be, BUT you can adjust the dial at the top of the rebound fork to slow it down if need be! That is is why remote shock reservoirs in the back in order to allow a bigger container to draw heat away keeping the rear shock at a more cooler temperature by placement of the reservoir i.e. Ossa. Sorry guys, you are technically correct but unfair to the Beta forks and not very pragmatic solution for the average Joe out there who has forks that are bottoming out. Start simple! Oil is cheap and it is easy to try what I am suggesting. Respectfully BillyT

Mmmm interesting how your mind drifted to MENS underwear? There was no mention of mens underwear in my post. I am still trying to get Andy to post pictures of the Paddock Girls in their underwear.? LOL I will tel you later on how to dial in your forks, granted they will not be as good as the others out there but will be a hell of a lot better than they are in stock form. Cheers!

When your bike gets to the point of empty it goes lean and atomizes the fuel greater than the 14:1 ratio that is normal, causing a VERY lean mixture thus making the engine run away!

"I suspect that the 200 has less vacuum and struggles to lift the fuel the extra distance." Mmm.......... Yet a 125cc Beta does? It is pressure that pushes the fuel up the jets not vacuum! The vacuum is important and must be present in order to move fuel up the jets but it is the atmospheric equalization at the top of the piston that is pulling the fuel.

It does afford access to the jets thru the big brass nut. It is stuck due to not being open much. Hit it with a big piece of wood or a rubber mallet. If that does not work then heat it up with a hair dryer pointed at the bowl and then hit it??????

Freudian slip? Eh........ You wrote "When I asked her what ?? he pointed at my ass and said.... "What happened there? " Are you married to a man or a woman LOL......

Does the bike knock when you let off or back off the throttle or when you twist the throttle on? BillyT

Oh Oh Bernie. Get ready for an onslaught as this topic has been talked to death by many fine people on this site. Please refer to the posted link that will guide you in setting this catb up correctly. Once done the issue will go away. PS: These "the carb has an overlfow by the three overflow nozzles" are not actualy overflow tubes/nozzles etc but rather vent holes to allow the carb to reach atmospheric pressure. Good luck. BillyT

Toni Bou moonlighting as a excavator driver ???? http://video.ca.msn.com/watch/video/ramps-are-for-sissies/1gl8h8i3h