billyt

Four turns out. WOW that is a lot. For that amount you would have to need a very rich condition at idle. Two turns out plus or minus half a turn is a good straining point. Keep in mind this is a FUEL screw NOT a air screw. I can't state enough about how important the carb to air boot directionality is. Put it on incorrectly and the carb will pull away from the front air boot causing air leaks etc.

Here you go.....

Mike I currently have a 2016 Beta Factory Evo 300 4T There is no air mixture screw on this carb. The adjustment screw underneath at the engine side is a fuel mixture screw. Not sure where you live? Beta USA sells an aftermarket brass fuel adjustment screw with a big thumb wheel on it. I highly suggest this replacement fuel screw as the stock fuel screw is a SOB to get to. There is an idle screw adjustment that only controls the throttle butterfly valve. Did you put the rubber boot that goes from the carb to the air box on correctly. This does NOT go on either way. It is a mono directional air boot. If you install it back on wrong you can get air leaks in all sorts of places at the carb. What do you mean by "I fitted a new mixture screw"?

A factory 2T or 4T 300cc?

So read the title of this thread on the front page list. "Sherco Breaks" I wonder what broke the Sherco? Thought I would take peek. Turns out it was about sticking BRAKES..............

Is this a 2T or 4T 300 Factory?

Hey Beta Blocker. Time you changed your name to Sherco Shark, Sherco Sam, Sherco Something...................

"Have also determined that a Rekluse clutch would be wonderful for this type of riding" "but would equate to an unfair advantage in competition" ​More like a handicap........

You have to change the idle screw to what ever altitude you are at. It is very sensitive to altitude changes. It may be running at 1800 RPM at 2000ft go up to 3000ft and the RPM will have dropped down by a 100 RPM or so. Unless you are at the same altitude as the Montesa factory in Spain you can't assume the idle is set correctly for your altitude. Hook up a Tiny Tach or equivalent and you will see what I mean. Voice of experience...............

This is engine oil not gear oil. Will work in a bottom end but made to lube the top end of a 4T.

Stu3y What country area are you in?

Francois is returning to Trials? WOW........... Gary H will be next.

I thought it would be fun to see some captions attached to this picture. Have a go...........

I quite fancy the googles my self, you?

I think all you nae sayers need to watch Kenichi Kuroyama ride this bike. He is a pro trials rider and was one of the Trials de nations Japanese team members. Easily one of the top twenty riders in the world. Check him out on some You Tube videos type Japanese trials and his name.

Who wants one?

There is nothing in a users manual that shows you how to set the "Maximum Preload". How do you know you are on the "limit" of the spring? Do you know how to set sag etc. If you can not get the correct sag with a spring then that is the determining factor of the weight class of the spring you need. Once again, do you understand how to set sag etc? If not then please browse through this forum for many good article on how to set it. Your are making this way too complicated. Maybe ask the guys how to set sag and then we will all help you. Out of setting sag you will learn if you have the correct weight class of spring.

By your question it is obviouse you are new to trials. Nobody is answering because they do not understand your question. "Maximum preload". What are you trying to achieve? Help us help you. The rate of spring needed for a given riders weight has got nothing to do with "Maximum Preload". Do you understand the theory behind sag, preload, free sag, and why it is important, or are you thinking if you jack up the spring as high as it will go then it will make you be able to hop?

No shims. Bucket and screw. First thing is to check the clearances. I have the technical manual for the Beta 4T on just the engine. I can send it to you if you like? E-mail me at: williamtraynor@hotmail.com

I had the same issue with a Beta 300 4T. The valves needed adjusted. They where adjusted and the ticking, clicking noise went away.

Very likely to be the valves. Should not need it on a new bike BUT you said the bike got hot. Does the noise frequency increase as you rev the bike? Is it getting hard to start when it is warm?

Lots of fun today on her.

Hey Andy I noticed we have many new members who post question on here. Great that they do, however, many of them do not post what country they are in so it is hard to provide answers that are somewhat country specific. Is there any way that when a person signs up that they must provide what country they are in as a basic pre-requisite to being on this site? Thanks Billy

UK Betas usual always come with a heavier flyweight right from Beta Italy as standard equipment for the UK. It is NOT a add on piece but rather the flywheel is a heavier flywheel to begin with. I live in the USA and I ordered the UK Beta flywheel and it is approximately 3/4 heavier. So if you have some flywheel pieces ????? Also the newer Beta magneto does not not afford flywheel add ons......... Curious as to what you have in the way of flywheel weights??? Cheers

A 300RR is $10K. Add dealers set up, tax, freight, title registration, etc and you are at $12K very quickly. And when you buy a bike in the EU don't you pay import tax/duties when you get it back to the UK & register it?