billyt

Mark. Another option is to install another Beta fuel solinoid from the auxiliary tank into the main system,

Not so. We ride in Arizona, lots of Cactus around and thorns. I depends on the type of terrain you ride in. We need thicker front inner tubes in AZ.

Where are you located in the USA?

Hola Miguel Where about in Mexico? I am in Arizona.

A smoking bike will be the least of problems if you don't get the lad to wear a helmet and some trials boots. His right leg is exposed to a VERY hot header pipe also.

All the jets are stock Mikuni jets with the exception of the needle (5DP) it is a needle machined by Beta for the bike.

Not surprised this happened. One of the concerns of having a shock and spring exposed is the spring taking a hit to a rock causing a point loading scenario. That can cause a small fracture and it will propagate and fracture the spring resulting a complete break of the spring. If the spring was given to a metalurgist he could quite quickly determine the cause of the failure.

Hi Mark. BillyT here. I live in Scottsdale AZ. I may have some Beta 4T 300cc information that will interest you. You can e-mail me at williamtraynor@hotmail.com or call me at 602 570 6877. Billy

Hey Gas Blocker........

If they go FI the tank will have different fuel cap.

You are witnessing not Euro 4 testing but also the very early signs of FI testing on Beta 2T's. Things that make you go mmmmm ...............

I know a guy in Prescott that works on bikes for free. Good mechanic, weird guy, funny accent.

I am sure they will get the plastic horses out his bottom bit by bit.

2017 Beta 2T 250 Factory. Terrain: lots of big rocks, slippery creek beds High elevation around 5 to 6 K feet above sea level. Average temp around 98 to 101 F Level of rider: Really old fart novice Lots of experimenting settled on 11 in front 41 in rear. Experimenting over with.

One BIG add to the above. Lay the bike on its side to change the oil filter. So much easier to get the filter back in.

You will be drinking from a fire hose soon......

I think the main reason people measure it in the hand is due to the fact that it is a pain in the ass to remove the whole clutch assembly to measure it under compression so they just do it by hand. I was fortunate enough to have two clutch hub assemblies to play with one on the bike and one on the bench.

stpauls As Oni Nou says this is a Gas Gas diaphragm clutch with only one spring in it. Now we know why you where banging your head against the wall, cereal boxes are getting harder to open these days.

Need some aspirin Paul. I do, I have to fix a friends 2003 TXT Pro 280 with a 2002 TXT 200cc clutch hub and clutch pack in it that some body swapped out a year ago. Needs a VERY strong hand to pull the clutch in. Need to put the original clutch hub assembly and clutch pack back in it. Took the clutch pack apart and all the fibre was lifted of the fibre plates in one piece. It had two 2mm metal plates in it and three fibre plates with six separate fibre rings. You can see the images down below of one fibre plate with both sides of the fibers completely lifted off the plate. On the other picture you can see the glue remnants. Has any Gas Gas owners experienced this seperation of clutch fibres before? What a mess.

The sectional drawing is from a technical bulletin from Gas Gas themselves. I have that 2010 TXT manual already. Not disputing what you are saying. I looked at the drawing again this time with a magnifier glass (old eyes). It is a compressed measurement and it is not from outside of tab to tab but rather from friction surface to friction surface. Makes sense now. The bike is a 2003 TXT Pro 280 I re -measured from inside the hub base to the inside of the large metal ring. So, 9.75 clutch pack in hand and 9.5 in compressed state. Still some compression going on there and still not 9.75mm compressed as it calls for. Seems it needs to be 10mm uncompressed to get 9.75 compressed. Are people bending those fingers to get the 17mm? Is that measurement from the bottom or top of the finger? How does the the finger height affect clutch pull in the way hardness or softness? I can see it affecting clutch lever travel but stiffness??? What I missing here?

Not sure what you are saying here. I asked a basic question of why Gas Gas riders quote 9.75 for plate thickness uncompressed (meaning held against each other) when the official Gas Gas drawing calls out for 9.75 in a compressed state. I have two clutch baskets, one on the bike and one on my workshop bench. I can assembly in my hand a variety of fibre plates and metal plates to make up the 9.75mm. However once I install them and tighten everything up ( clutch on my bench) I can then measure the outside of the tabs on the fibre plates and the pack thickness is now 8.70mm.

So as I stated on another post here I am working on a 2003 Gas Gas for a newer rider. His clutch pull is VERY hard. I have lots of technical knowledge around Beta & Montesa clutches but a newbie to the Gas Gas diaphragm clutch. After listening to all the advice videos and blogs out there I am now totally confused. Here is why. Everybody states a clutch pack thickness of around 9.75mm there is even videos showing a guy holding a clutch pack in his hand and measuring the pack. However the cut away technical drawing from Gas Gas clearly shows the 9.75mm with the pack under pressure Not in a person hand under NO pressure. I measured the loose vs under pressure of a clutch pack and its is around 1mm compression differential. Why is everybody quoting 9.75mm with no pressure?

The flat metal plate is a baffle to help alleviate the splashing of fuel around. Lets keep this simple. You have a fuel cut off (needle and seat) and a float level and that is where we need to focus on before we get into the weird stuff.... I will ask a few basic question for you to answer: 1.0 The bike leaks when you turn off and upright? 2.0 The bike only leaks when you rev it? 3.0 Does it leak when just idling? 4.0 You have made the adjustment exactly as in my instructions? 5.0 You have made sure the floats are still buoyant? 6.0 Have you checked the condition of the viton tip in the fuel shut off jet and the adjacent brass female part? 7.0 Does your viton tipped shut off jet look like the picture (minus the clip)? 8.0 Is the spring mechanism still working on the viton shut off jet? Lets verify first that the on and off mechanism (needle and seat) is indeed working correctly. Adjust the centre brass tab so that it shuts off the fuel REAL early (remember that the carb is upside down when making this adjustments). We are not concerned about fuel level for it running smoothly (we can come back later and fine tune it for smooth running) but rather does it shut off period when being stationary and revved. Don't try to ride the bike in this exaggerated state. Does it still leak while being revved and stationary? Lets work this out. Cheers Billy

Betabill In looking in more detail at your float bowl. Specifically the part where my pen is pointing to the marks/gouge is witness mark that at some point in time there was an issue with the pin that holds the brass tangs to the float carb body. This heavy gouge mark means that the pin was not in securely when the carb was placed back on the float bowl. After working with this carb for many many years I had seen one of these gouges before where it put a hair line crack in one of the posts and caused all sorts of flooding issues. The pin can and will float about from left to right however this is not on the side but rather a mark that has been forced into the top due to poor fitment. Can you get take a better more detailed picture of this area on the float bowl?

The top arrow adjustment does not set the float travel but rather the needle seat travel. The floats do what they want to do independently from the perpendicular tang. If the floats go down hard from a drop off the small tang will always limit the needle travel.