charlie prescott

Hi Guy's Hi TRF. I think Subira, is right use the mudguard bolt holes, because I have a leg with the slot,and the presure of braking has cracked the leg,from between the slot to the seal holder boss. this was probably done with a large road brake in the fork, but they do seem suspect. So pulling from the two holes from the mudguard bolts seems the best idea. Regard,s Charlie.

Hi Guy's, Hi Pat. Try Simply Bearings for the oil seals, thats were got mine from. You could soak your paper gaskets in water for a while if they are dried up, or make your own. One place I have not tried for gaskets of the top of my head is Draganfly motorcycles in Bungay. You could try them, as they keep some Burman parts. Hope this helps. Regard's Charlie.

Hi Guy's. Just done a bit of checking out for you and came up with the following. Bike on e-Bay registration at DVLA. date of first registration, 01/12/1991. year of manufacture 1959 colour Black. BSA's RED T1, registration number, JON 473E, Date of first registration 07/04/1967. Colour Black. Correct. BSA,s RED T2, registration number, HOK 495D, No Registration at DVLA. So you can make your own mind up about the bike, i am convinced it is a fake. I have a feeling RED T1 May be owned by the rightfull family the Martin's? I hope so. Regard's Charlie.

Hi Guy's Yes I have those articles about Red T,1,2,and3. And the R did stand for Redditch. Just looking at the bike on e-Bay and then the one in the articles proves this bike was never one of the R T bikes. And I expect that it only left the factory on its way to the Post Office. Regard's Charlie.

Hi Guy's . I think the write up for this bike is total fiction. I will try and contact Pat Slinn has he is the only man that will Know about the last of the factory bikes. We have a Bantam that was used around the BSA Factory, so is that a works bike, we also have a Bantam that was built by one of the Road Testers at BSA , so is that a factory bike, NO. Regard's Charlie.

Hi Guy's, Hi Atom. Your right, Does it not inspire you to see the hours put in to this superb example of engineering. Regard's Charlie.

Hi Guy

hi Guy's. Hi Greg. I am in the middle of a Crusader build, or should I say a Crusade, Any way you will need the use of a fully eqiuped workshop lathe etc, or someone who has one. I have a list as long has your arm that needs to be done,will write it out for you later. The first thing you need to get rid of are the forks.You could replace them with forks from a Bullet, if you wish has these are damped unlike the ones that you have on at present. Keep an eye open for a Villiers 8E gearbox for you may need parts from that. Also the clutch needs sorting and the main shaft replacing with the Villiers shaft and clutch cetre. (I am trying to fit a clutch from a Yamaha) A load of the crankcases need cutting away around the chain and at the back of the gearbox on the oposite side. There is a cure for the gearchange mech but this will mean machining. The motor needs atention to its breathing (so do I). Frame needs some mods,etc. but dont be put off by what I say, as most of the bits are available and not to expensive. Just do one job at a time. Regard's Charlie.

Hi ,Andy, Just cleaned Pm box out so you can contact me now.

Hi Guy

Hi Guy's You could find the answer to the problem is to look for another head on e-Bay. It could be far cheaper than having the head repared, or the shafts plated, you decide. Regard's Charlie.

Hi Guy's Hi Andy, Your bike was like spliting the Atom. Because there are now two. Go On build another, you know you want to. And I am sure Dave and Pete would like to build another up as well. Regard's Charlie.

Hi Guy's. I have been told that Mick Grant is the boy to sort your S22 carb, I would think Andy sorry "Magnon" would also know. Villiers Service say that they sell a recon S22 for about

Hi Guy's Brilliant, I am glad I am not the only one that now think's an Ariel is the bike to build. I am at present being a bit greedy so I am building three, to go along with the four that we already own. One has the frame that Dave digarded,the one that Andy Pitt owned, this is going to have the 410 engine with the alloy barrel that we are having cast. The second frame that the jig is set for, is a springer, for the 380 ridged bike that we have. And the third frame is going to be one inch shorter and house the Model 50 Norton engine, that I am taking out to 380-410 cc "A Noriel" that I have always wanted to build. If we all pool our information, I am sure we can put you on the right track to build a bike that you will not regret owning. Regard's Charlie.

Hi Guy

Hi Guy's After all this snow we have had in the UK, My mind has turned to which are the best value trials boots for the price, and which waterproof sock is the best to wear in them. Has any one bought any army surplus socks and are they any good? Just a bit of a survey before I spend on gear, and not gearboxes. Regard's Charlie.

Hi Guy's Hi Jim. Just a thought about your problem, seems to me it could be the crankcase oil seals, or the crankcase drain plug loose., or a crack in the crankcase. Worth looking at. Forest and Trees spring to mind. Regard's Charlie.

Hi Guy's. Hi Nige. Glad your's has turned out OK, I am on with mine this week. My mate as just had his new (to him) coin sized press collected, so when it is conected in, he is going to press the two bronze top hat shims that he has designed for the sides of the bearing. Can't see how you got on with yours,as my computer wont open your Blog site. will try and get into it another way later. Keep in touch, with the rest of the build. Regard's Charlie.

Hi Guy

Hi Guy's. For you with Sat-Navs, is that right? anyway, the Post Code for the centre is TF3 4JH. Will try and get to the show on one of the days, Regard's Charlie.

Hi Guy's Hi Nige. As far as I understand it, it is all down to tolarances of moving parts that contribute to engine pressure buildup's. And to be honest British bikes were never as good at closeness of tolarances as say the bikes built in Japan, and they soon worked it out that if possible an engine gear unit to be kept simple was better with a common oil supply and big breather pipes. Timed breathers were only a comprimise. Only My Idea? Regard's Charlie.

Hi Guy's Seem's nowaday's I can't think of two thing's at once. Sorry Boy's I forgot to say that the breathing in the Scott Ellis Replica bike is simular to the system used in the Mead and Tompkinson, racer of yesteryear, with exeption of the chain case where an oil mist should be sufficiant? you work it out? There is a large tube out of the gearbox filler plug with a T piece. And also a bearing in the gearbox sprocket changing plate. Hope this clears up the confusion. Regard's Charlie.

Hi Guy's Hi Nige, Yes I found the bearing on Simply Bearings Last night. I have spoken with my Machinist mate today, and he said it would probably be better to grind the races, and use phospher bronze for the two washer/spacers. that hold the oil presure in. I will order a bearing along with the drivside main and gearbox etc , tomorrow. Another tip I have found out is to use double rubber sealed bearings, and just remove one for the drive side main, keep both in for the rest, and this stops most of the oil leaks. And for the amount of work that a trials bike does,they will be fine with there own lubrication. Will let you know how we get on mate. Good luck with yours in the mean time. Regard's Charlie.

H i Guy's. Hi Nige, Thanks for the information , I will try and get one of these bearings,, the one's that Alpha and C and D use and see if my machinist mate and me can't come up with the answer, or perhaps a cheaper finished product ,it should not be that much trouble should it? Yes keep me posted ,and I will you. Regard's Charlie.

Hi Guy's Hi Nige. Proably cheaper to keep an eye on e-Bay for one, or a compleat crankcase as I have seen these for as cheap as