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Will try that, got a new mich on the spare wheel
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Great idea, bought one a couple of weeks ago from Ebay and used it a few times now whilst washing the bike, one thing to watch though! remember to take the f***er out after you wash it. Spent nearly half an hour this evening changing the plug, checking for sparks and about to pull the carb off before realising the t**t was still in.
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New tyre on for yesterday in Wales, tried a Dunlop over the Michelin and felt no better grip on the rocks than a used Mich but enourmous grip on the wet grassy climbs and mud even with 6 pounds in it all day, looked like a tractor Dad said. The Michelin seems to grip better on roots and rocks, anyone got any views on the Dunlop against the Mich, that includes you Ralphy!!!!
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Eddy, i buy a ne bike every year as well, this one is only 5 months old, I know what the problem is now and will get it sorted this week once and for all, will be ringing Steve in the morning
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Barry, gald you had a good day apart from the rim!!!!! what was the V force Block like?. Weather looks abit better for us lot tomorrow and a new Dunlop on last night for a bit more grip up those steps
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AJ, does nt your tyre spin after using wd40? not sure i would keep doing that , get some tyre soap far better and dries quickly.
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Been pointed out to me this evening what is the cause of my running problems with the bike,fuel spillage and plug popping, will get it confirmed next week and post the outcome when its sorted incase anyone else has the same problems. Easy to fix though just need a few new parts and a drill
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Sorry Doc, just cleaning up my spelling and it went off?
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Saw a post on here about an easy way to do this, bead breakers,driving over it with a van and spades, just had the Goat (Ryan) do a new Dunlop for me in under 5 minutes just using 2 tyre levers and a bit of carb cleaner. Saves me a job tomorrow and a load of sweat and swearing. If your reading this Ralph, hes saved you a job as well as no doubt I would have given up after an hour and brought it round your house to do. Looks like the secret to it is momentum and brute strength, the bead on the dunlop is very tough compared to the michelin but no problem for ryan
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Yer right Heath, tell you what we'll both hold the cameras and let Barry get on with it, less dangerous. I think Barry should do the interval break at Sheffield next year, keep the crowd warmed up, bet he would get up some of it as well
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Clean those rocks up for us lads, up there Sunday even if it p****s down. Have a good safe day out guys
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Barry, your becoming famous mate!!! free V force reeds and dealers jumping about after you, have your own fan club soon. Where you all off to tomorrow? hope Heath has the camera at the ready and the damage is alot less than last weeks efforts
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Ran even worse with a 6es, pretty sure I have a dud carb and thats whats causing all the problems, wheres Billy T when you need him
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Tinde, never had plug problems since this bike, had loads of Betas always used 5es plugs - Lampkins told me to use them and they should know
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Done another plug tonight??????????????????????????????? mate of mine had the same problem earlier this year, new Mikuni solved it, think i will stick a new carb on next week and try it out. Great time at the quarry today, few offs from most of us and a spectacular loop out from Ralph at the end doing a third gear wheelie, that stubby thing that sticks out on the right hand side is the rear brake mate, it helps having your foot over it before you nail the throttle. Mike Johnson showed us all how it should be done, and no doubt will do again on Sunday in Wales,
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Do a quick search on ebay, should be CD's for sale or downloads for a couple of quid, got just about every bike manual on there
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Matt, been using smoke free Repsol 2 stroke in the Rev3 270 and it gives good results, used to use TTS but repsol seems cleaner
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David, as neon says bhp has just about nothing to do with trials bikes, what you need is torque, the 85cc crosser has more bhp because it revs high at the expense of torque. If you look at the crosser torque spec bet its got next to bugger all. There is a calculation of torque/bhp and rpm but cant remember it now, you cant have big bhp,big rpm and big torque without a massive engine. If you want something to bomb round the fields get a crosser not a trials bike. Its the same for Ducati's and Harleys, bugger all bhp and revs but bucket loads of torque, Jap bikes lots of rpm, lots of bhp but not as much torque, cant have it always
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Well done Shaun, great ride hope theres more to come??????? or will he p*** the team off as usual!!! anyone see him wobbling about on the podium, must be a big weight disadvantage dragging all that beer around Croft. Hope he does shine in the 600's still a good rider, but have a feeling the demons will return and this will be his last year in the British Championships
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Phil, depends what you are riding over really, if the shock is bottoming out over medium rocks, logs etc wind it up untill it isnt. Does nt want to be to hard so it does nt travel much but needs to use as much of the spring as possible without bottoming on most stuff. The rebound is up to you, if you want to hop around alot it needs to be springier but not so much that its like a pogo stick. Front and rear suspension should work together as well, push the bike up and down near the seat and see if both are working at the same rate or near to it. You may find you need a stiffer spring than standard which can be bought without too much trouble
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If you ve got the certificate of newness for the bikes get them registered, not that difficult to do and then you can get easy and more cover for insurance like a road bike, should be cheaper as well. Could even do the road trials which are generally better events without trying to outrun old bill when he pulls you over for a check. Not looked into the pure offroad insurance policies but I bet they are pretty limited in what they will cover if the bike gets pinched
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May be worth just Insuring it as a road bike - third party fire and left, mines
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Thumper, I have found the gearing on the rev3 about right, first is low but make it sing abit more and it will go up most stuff you think you may need 2nd for. Second can be a bit quick and I only use it to go bigger stuff and not for tight flat turns etc. The 270 will pull 4th and fifth on climbs and I have never known any bike to grunt up hills like it. I have dropped the forks through the yolks to raise the front and stiffened the back abit as I found the standard setting to soft. As Heath said a fast action throttle is great on the 270, it can get you out of trouble quickly in a section and get you up and over things from very short run ups. Lots of people say dont fit one but I could nt ride without it on and I m no expert. If you ride streams and rocks may be worth keeping the flywheel weight on as the beta is a bit savage on the rocks without it . Get a float bowl extension and i have the fuel screw 1 and a half turns out from fully in, this is adjusted though depending on the weather. I have nt done much to the front end but have pushed the bars forward which seems to make the front grip alot better and not wave about whilst climbing.
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Bike still running perfect and no blown plugs since I stopped using the R type NGK? or was it just the really hot weather?
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