jaylael

Steve: It's Dennis and Kary, the us Montesa parts distributor. Their website is www.apexmotosports.com their e mail is apexsports@qwest.net Cheers, Jay L.

Apex sports in Portland has a super clean Fantic section on the floor which is reputed to be one of the last ones made. It's blue and red with some other colors(dayglow yellow?) mixed in, has an aluminum frame. Neat bike. They want $1795.00 for it.

Neonsurge: I can't help but chime in here. I hate to see you suffer. Try running it with the air filter out and see if that helps. Sometime restricted or dirty air filters are overlooked. Also Gassers of that vintage are prone to clogging of the fuel screen on the side of the carb. and also fuel petcocks which become restrictive over time as the rubber washer swells up and pinches off the opening. Don't bother with trying to put a new washer in there. If you are certain the fuel flow is restricted, I recomend replacing the petcock as an assembly if it doesn't flow enough fuel. Also the needle seat in the carb (del-orto) on many gassers is too small for wide open running on the road without it starving for fuel. The seat comes as a #200 on most gassers and with the restrictive petcocks and semi plugged screen, the fuel starvation occurs on heavy throttle running. I recomend a larger seat, # 300. The sensation is like you forgot to turn the gas tap on. If you wait a bit it catches up and runs ok at light throttle. If this doesn't sound like what's wrong, (and it doesn't) the cause may be ignition related. We are all assuming you have tried a new plug? If that doesn't fix it, you may have a shorting kill button wire. Disconnect it and see if that does it. If still runs badly it gets ugly real fast and may be any one of the three components which make up the ignition system. It might be necessary to substitute known good ignition parts from a similar machine. Check all the electrical connections to be clean and tight, and make sure your plug cap is in perfect shape, not loose corroded or full of holes or water. Let us know what you find and good luck. Hope it all get straightened out, Jay L.

Thanks Nigel! Yes it's clear to me now. Yes I got the package. Many thanks. What I have done is placed the T&MX news in the loo at work. Get to read all about far away and exotic locations while on the, er well indisposed. I especially like the brochure from the stadium trial. The photo of Mark Friexa looks almost like me.

John Collins: I am assuming you drill out the existing nuts and plastic "humps" the nuts fit into? I have a good friend with a '79 Sherpa T and have attepted repairs with hot glue to no avail. This metal plate fix is definitely in my future so any further tips would be appreciated. Thanks, Jay Lael

In '02 they got a better clutch master cyl. with lighter pull and in '01 they got different (better) brake calipers. Notice the ones with the rear caliper protected within the swingarm instead of perched on top in harms way.

Outlaw Dave: I have two Ossa Mar trials bikes. Trouble is they are in pieces and I haven't put one together, yet. I would love to come to both of these events. Can I get on the mailing list for these events? e mail is butterpie@bigplanet.com

If it's green and white with clover leafs embossed into the engine cases it would have to be totally cool. Maybe yellow would do. If it's anything like a real Ossa it would be front heavy, plow in turns and have noisy exhaust. Still the cool factor is off the map.

If only. One can hope? I want one already!!!

You could get some Cheng Shins from the JC Whitney catalog for real cheap! Bet they wouldn't work as well though.

The biggest part of getting a "new" bike is the riders mental response to the placebo effect of the new machine. I can vouch for having huge improvements in my score after getting a "new" bike. I was stuck in a rut and something about having a new color scheme and logo etc. was just as much a factor as the alleged superior machine. (it was actually better) Some riders get a new bike every year and their results never seem to improve. That would be frustrating I think. Even worse, getting a new bike that was actually a step down from what you had. I have done this myself in the past and it was a very bad experience. Choose a new bike very carefully. Ride them all and try to be objective about your needs as a rider. I'd like to have one of each, but that isn't gonna' happen. Jay

I haven't had the pleasure of working on a Mecatecno Amigo, but I suggest you increse the flywheel weight to improve it's smoothness. One limiting factor will be the room inside the mag cover. With some vintage bikes like the KT 250, you have to make a spacer for the mag cover to allow room for the weight in there. Depending on the size of the crankshaft nut, some ready made flywheel weights might go right on there. Steahly is one company which makes an array of these weights. On my old '92 Honda CR 125 the weight also contained the flywheel nut. You take off the original nut and then thread the weight onto the crankshaft. To keep it on, they use set screws which bite into the existing flywheel. Perhaps some type of steahly flywheel weight would fit on there. You'd need to measure the crankshaft stub size, thread pitch and whether or not it's left or right handed thread. I'd get the heaviest one you can. After that you might need to fabricate a spacer for the flywheel cover. Let us know how you make out. JL

Count the pins. Use a magic marker to keep your place.

Brian: You didn't say what sort of little motor you are referring to. On the Hodaka 125 trials specials we typically fabricate a three pound weight to add to the stock flywheel. This results in just enough flywheel for trials.

The standard way this scenrio goes bad is when someone tries to drill it out with a bit that's not perfectly sharp as in at least as good as brand new, then the drill bit wanders off center so bad it gets part way into the threaded frame metal, then the next mistake they make is they put a super hardened "easy out" in the hole which can't turn 'cause it's half in the frame, then they snap the darn thing off in there and it's all wrecked. Ever try to drill a hole through a file? "They" probably ought not to be tryin' that sorta' thing.

Neonsurge: The dogbone assys have been updated with a stronger more beefy design. They also come with bearings in them. The chances of your old ones being useable after all that clunking is virtually none. Replace them both.

The '00 Beta Rev 3 I had produced alarming amounts of aluminum shavings like you describe. I turns out after teardown and inspect that the source is the innermost friction disc is meant by design to ride against the aluminum surface on the clutch "quill" or center hub. There are actually no ill effects from this as long as you change your oil frequently. It eventually will taper off as the aluminum gets polished by clutch use. Many a Beta owner has spent sleepless nights over this NON PROBLEM. As for using 10 30 versus atf, either one is o.k. as long as you are satisfied with the clutch release. I suspect you are not, hence the desire to put atf in it. Go ahead and flush it with some kerosene like you describe. Just make sure to change the oil frequently and try not to worry too much about the aluminum chips. It O.K.! These are great bikes as you know. Happy Beta riding, Jay L.

Sam: I've never seen a Montesa with the steering stop bolts in it, so I suspect the "people" who are leaving them out are at the Montesa factory. I suggest you run it as is and don't put bolts in there. My Montesa has never suffered any ill effects from not having them in there and it turns like a wet dream.

Ron: Yes it is dowelled in front and back. I will try your dye method next time I work on it. That's great advice. Now if I can find that shim I took out and put it back in.

Unless you're made of money, I'd get at least the lower fork gaurds. The sliders will bind if dented and they cannot be repaired by any reasonable method. They cost plenty. The carbon fiber ones look cool. If you have no shame you could get those god awful looking rifle scabbard things that protect the whole tube also. I think they're too ugly to run but, alot of guys are running them. Neoprene tube gaurds are great for protecting the tubes from scratches and keeping the grit out of the seals, but once gain they sure don't look that neat. I like looking at the pretty purple, geen, blue anodized tubes so much that I am willing to risk that expense. Just run what you think is best for you.

I can't resist this chance to tell about our buddy Chester. He used to ride trials back in the 80s - 90s but he had two separate incidents involving Beta kick starting which certainly did not help his career. The last one was in 97 if I remember right. He was at the "Dabber" trial and was kicking that stubby little shift lever sized kickstarter and it popped back ferciously. The arm took a swipe at his calf which just cleared the top of his boot, ripping open an artery. Within ten seconds there was a two foot puddle of blood on the ground and it was spreading fast. The artery must have been pretty badly torn open. It was a legitimate threat to Chester's life! If not for quick thinking by the trials marshall's lovely parmedic wife, he probably would not have survived. She applied pressure to the wound with her bare hand and sent someone to call 9 1 1 . They showed up with a friggin' great big fire truck at the trials. Funny thing, ol' Chester don't ride trials anymore.

Hi all: It has been a tough winter around here. Between the weather and my recurring sinus headaches I haven't had alot to say. Rode my horse sunday and had a blast! He gets through the snow way better than a trials bike. There are down trees everywhere and it's gonna take some doing to get the trails opened up again around here. One friend of mine has been snowed in at his place for over a week. I can't remeber a winter like this. It sort of forces you to take stock of your life and re prioritize it. Can't wait til trials is a do able thing again. Take care all, Jay L.

I am assuming it's got good compression since you have a new piston and rings in it. From your lingo "it won't tick over" I thing you mean once you push start it it won't stay running at idle? If that's the case, make sure the pilot jet is not plugged and check for air leaks. Maybe a bad crank seal on the mag side? Is it piston port or reed? It could have a broken reed. This would cause what (I think) you describe.

Alan: That piece of metal is paper thin. JB weld is probably the next best thing to a new case. Where I went wrong was taking out the shim, allowind the shaft to bottom out in it's bore against the paper thin backup metal. The more I look at the parts, the more I think the clutch cover has been bent/distorted by one too many whacks against the skid plate which was bent to a crispy potato chip by the previous owner. I have new skid plate now, but am too broke and cheap to buy a new clutch cover. (yet) Someday soon I'll get one and we'll see if that fixes it. In the meantime it's working o.k. as is. I guess it's more of a theoretical question until the money and ambition come together. Bullfrog is right, but the cow's allready got out of the barn.

Ed The Haggis is for the wild dogs while I make a break for it. Charlie: Thanks for the tip, but it's new gasket and the shaft has endplay. The kicker arm stays down when the bolt in the center rear is tight. If you loosen this bolt it begins to snap back. I think I should buy it a new clutch cover, but right now can't swing it. It's working o.k. for now but it makes me wonder what's going on.