jon v8

Thanks for the pm Wallo,I thought it best to answer on here.I looked into fitting a BTH electronic unit on my Ariel back when I first got it,as the mag would play up when it got hot.At the time they wouldnt sell one to me for trials use as they were fed up with warranty claims on units that were full of mud/water from trials/scrambles bikes.They were busy enough making them for road users who didnt abuse them so much.Fair enough really,so I then bought an Electrex world unit for a BSA C15/B40,and modded it to fit onto the end of the Crank of the Ariel.This also didnt work as the engine has too much play in the main bearings - chewing up the stator and rotor very quickly.So from there I went back to the original lucas racing mag and had it rebuilt by paul at APL magneto's in Shaftsbury,Dorset. £150 later and it works fine.(Except when its full of water - they dont like that...) So for now I'm sticking to the Lucas mag,I asked loads of people about their bikes and got lots of very strong responses,the Electrex world unit does work very well if the engine is in good nick,Barry Barthorpe has great success with it on his.Others around have the BTH units and do well with them.(I think they have new owners and will sell to mud riders again now) While others use the Lucas SR mags to good effect. For now I'm happy with the Lucas mag,it works well and looks the part,I do think they look odd with the mag removed... One last thought is that I asked the Electrex chaps at Telford in 2011 if they were going to do an electronic implant for old mags.They said they were already working on it,but were very busy so progress was slow.I didnt see anything on their stand this year,but if they did do an implant that was waterproof I'd have one.

I've just bought a tank from Craig at Majesty - Yamaha, I'm thinking of fitting it upside down so you can see how smart the welding is.

Sorry,I always solder them - but always pay careful attention to routing etc before I cut and solder.(Even though they include barrel adjusters in the kit )

Nah, I just use the Venhill universal cables for nearly everything,they have enough fittings to cover most applications.

Ditto !

I paid £50 for an SM seat for my Ariel at Telford,it fits OK - but I wouldnt say its good quality.Saying that,the SM tank/seat unit on my TY250 is pretty much like new and its been on there since I bought it in 2006.

So will you be riding ?

Nah,not a chance ! My promise to build a new chicken coup for the egg layers has been put off just too many times,My wife and kids have been moaning recently that I'm never around at weekends.(I thought they were glad to be rid of me....) So this year I'm cutting down on trials,mainly concentrating on running the Bath Classics and the odd ride here and there. Thinking about it there are still some Bantam and C15 bits hanging around from when I was a kid....

I know, I know ! Trouble is I bought the bike as a non runner of 10 years and have done the min poss to get it to run.My idea is a process of "gradual improvement" rather than a strip and rebuild.(Too many other bikes/land Rovers in bits hanging around) The original setup which used plastic sink waste hose ! was mocked horribly when it was seen,so when it fell off I did the quick/cheap option.Trouble is my work is booked solid into next month,I'm 1/2 way through building a new chicken coup and my other bikes need work too.And I'm running our first trial of the year this weekend.I need a year off to get all me kit sorted out....

I wrote a reply to this thread a couple of days ago - but the 1872 Bogsworth computer at work didnt upload it... My answer is that I havent tried one of the new premier carbs yet,I guess anything that can be done to slow down wear and maintain accuracy has to be good.The Concentric on my HT is a standard one with a brass slide from Surrey Cycles,which works well.But since I have fitted a modern conical K and N type filter I dont think it runs so well,and although I've played around with the pilot air screw it just wont come quite right.I'm going to experiment with a longer hose from the carb to filter,my old setup was about 7-8" long to the filter from the carb.I think this creates a very slight depression upstream from the carb which it appeared to like. Years ago playing with Rover V8's in old Land Rovers we alaways got the best pickup with the original long inlet hoses onto the original filters.I'll post up my findings when I get time to fiddle.....

Re the smoking "issue" - It only needs one Tiger Cub at a trial to release all the smoke we need,forget 2 strokes.

It always seems to be the same people who do it... I dont worry too much about it,but a while back I was nudged at a trial to be told a certain rider was trying to push in front of about 5 of us.I just threatened to let the clutch out and flatten him.Obviously the thought of several tons of oily Ariel ontop of him didnt go down to well.He waited his turn....

Well the new Falcons are very plush - really pleased with them.BUT, now it shows up the lack of ground clearance when they are compressed.It has really shown up the need for a couple more inches of ground clearance....

He is making some good stuff,I've got the carb adjusters on my freshly "Blinged" Ariel,which is out for a wobble at Somerton Classic tomorrow.

Owen,good luck with whatever you decide to do - just make sure its ready for the 11th Mar at Binegar.

Yes - keep the mono for trials and buy a Yamaha Serow,they are brilliant.(And more bikes is good)

Thats a good point,and from memory the Electrex kits give 28 degrees of advance from the base setting.Be worth getting the specs before spending any money,or holing a piston etc.

Most people say that the performance benefit is further up the rev range where the electronic advance starts to come in - rather than the fixed original setup.I would have thought that easier starting and smoother running at low speeds would be just as welcome. Plenty of people around here have adapted it to allsorts of bikes with excellent results.

I've just put some new Falcons on my Ariel - if you can wait till the weekend I should be able to tell you how good they are.....

My memory isnt too clever,but isnt there a pic of Don Smith riding a Cheetah like this - cant remember if it may have had a Cub engine in it though.I dont have a problem with it,be very welcome in our unit class.Lets face it early disc brakes were crap anyway,so it would probably be better a modern Cub replica hub. Cant find that pic,but I have just found one of Mick Whitlock in the 1967 SSDT riding one - clearly fitted with a disc brake.....

I would add to that - my experience in my working life fixing Land Rovers is that the platinum tipped plugs make the rest of the ignition system work harder.V8 Range Rovers and Discoveries often come to me with LPG problems.The first thing I tend to do with them is to scope the plug leads with an inductive clamp.They always show a much higher peak voltage with the platinum plugs,often resulting in burnt out plug leads and coil tops in some.Just going back to an ordinary plug brings the voltage right down.My thinking is that a Rover V8 is a dodgy old Buick - not exactly a high performance unit,it just needs a reliable spark,not a massive one. And it works,they run well on the ordinary plugs,plus the leads cope better,esp in damp conditions.

Spot on Woody.

Modifications to brit bikes has been going on as long as there has been bikes, GOV 132 is the classic example, back in the days when there was only ONE route for all. The only difference now is, the materials readily available , and the engineering ability of some people. And which GOV132 would this be ?

This whole question seems quite simply answered,(To me,being simple...) in as much as marking out trials that people WANT to ride,not filling it up with loads of rules etc.As for the tyres,again quite simple demand will dictate supply,if classic trials remains popularity or grows we will need more tyres.It only takes one person to draw up a spec for a tubed tyre,(Up to a high standard of design and quality) and get them made in China - Isnt that how most things we buy now are supplied ?

Dont worry about the rattle - its just sign that the engine is still running ! It may get worse if you get it too hot or if its running lean,but they are not the quietest of motor...