Goudrons2

I don't think it's the pump that usually causes this issue, but the pickup pipes or clips/joints between them all. I believe the pipes can rupture and those Clic R fuel hose clamps they use can leak, particularly if they've been off and refitted. So best replace with suitably sized jubilee clips or proper screw up fuel hose clamps. Though I never had an issue with the throttle postiton sensor, that does crop up on some posts as causing similar problems.

The 2008 Rev3 was the last of the line and some of the niggles were sorted, mainly they dumped the dribbly Mikuni and fitted a Keihin carb for the 2008. I ended up binning the Mikuni on my old 2007 Rev3 and fitted a Dellorto VHST, it really did transform the bike as I believe the Keihin did for the 2008. There were some frame issues with the early Evo's, I think it was limited to the 2009 models, a lot of frames were replaced due to cracking. I seem to think they moved to "Hydro Formed" frames shortly after. Ok, they didn't sort every niggle with the 2008, the clutch is prone to dragging and sticking, but you'll find the same can be said of the Evo's. You need to run them of 98 ron fuel, otherwise they'll knock and bang due to pre detonation. They do like a well packed silencer, they can sound and feel a bit airy and rough if it's all burnt away. They should sound like they have a solid "bark". The rear Paioli shock can suffer, it can go all squidgy and leak. I believe there's a rubber bladder that seperates the gas from the oil and that can split. Getting one rebuilt was very hard 15 years ago, probably impossible now but there are afterrmarket alternatives that won't break the bank. The case the water pump fits in has been known to rot away. Coolant seems to eat away at the metal and into the gear oil. Not sure if it's due to wrong coolant or not. Also the impeller will often look like a dogs chew toy. There is a kit with a bigger, metal impeller and spacer that works really well. Rev3 Stators can fail which leaves you with no spark. You can get them rewound by Bradford Ignitions. Plenty of info around about testing them. In the wet, water and mud can get up past the rear shock around the top mount and get into the airbox. You can pack around the top of the shock with an open cell foam, that keeps most of it away from the airbox. With the exception of the carb, I seem to think pretty much everything else is interchangeable with Rev3's between 2002 onwards (maybe they might have changed the caliper early on aswell) The 2000 and 2001 had a different airbox design which had a different seat/rear mudguard, but the rest of the models the plastics are interchangeable, even the plastics from the Rev 4T will fit bikes between 2002 and 2008.

That filter won't help. The fuel pump should put out between 3 and 3.5 bar when energised/engine running. You can buy a cheap gauge for less than 20 euros and slice it between the outlet on the top of the tank and the pipe to the injector, that would diagnose a pump/filter/pipework issue within the tank.

This sounds like it is running lean. There is a pump and filter in the fuel tank and I believe early bikes can leak causing the engine to run lean. Mine did it, not sure what the fix was as I took it in to be fixed though I read it's either the filter pipe connectors or the pipe itself. The pipe clips aren't great as the one on the top of my tank started dribbling recently when the engine was running. See this post for what the pump and filter looks like. There are a few posts regarding Vertigo fuel filter or Vertigo fueling problems that other owners have started.

The TLM was never offically sold in the UK, Europe or the US, it was a Japanese market bike with a 2 stroke engine based on a Montesa engine. The ones you find in the UK are all grey market stuff that were mainly shipped in by grey importers as cheap fillers in shipping containers full of JDM 400's sportbikes when the supply of TLR 200's started to dry up, which were another filler but also a big hit.

When I taught our boy to ride and others to ride on the road, I found it important to "mentally" link the throttle, clutch and rear brake together. Get them to set the throttle, feed the clutch in and modulate the results of that with the rear brake rather than the throttle, so they have the bike pulling against the rear brake as the crawl along. It keeps them from working the throttle back and forth (and lurching about) and shows them they can set the throttle, release the clutch yet control the speed with the rear brake rather then the throttle. It takes a while, but when it sinks in you can throw all those tight control turns at them and they find them a breeze.

1998 with be a Rotax engined "Easy" model. I know you were interested in a K Roo at one point, so think K Roo only worse. I seem to remember Graham Jarvis won the 1998 SSDT on one, about the bikes only notable achievement and probably says more about Graham than the bike! From that period, the Beta Techno and the Montesa 315 were leaps and bounds ahead of it. Don't think Scorpa used Yamaha engines until 2001 when they launched the SY. The SR came in 2010. Scorpa also sold the TYF from around 2003, though I think they used a few other names for it over the years/markets like TYS (I think that model came with a proper seat). This was a 4 stroke, aircooled "modern" trials bike. It's quite a tidy bike that found a bit of a following as a cheaper, easier to handle bike than Montesa's 4 stroke, the 4RT. Think it came with either a 125cc or 175cc engine but there are kits to take the 125 version out to around 143 to 160cc.

Some of those marks have a distinct curve that I've seen before. I think a wire wrist/gudgeon pin clip has done that. One of these https://www.pedparts.co.uk/product/2241/14mm-gudgeon-pin-piston-circlip The large score on the inside of the barrel looks about the same diameter as a wire wrist pin clip as well. Have you still got both clips, one from each end of the wrist pin?

I couldn't agree more, leave the odd ball stuff alone. If it really must be air cooled, perhaps a Yamaha TY250 mono might be a better choice. They sold plenty and spares shouldn't be too hard to find. For a water cooled "modern" bike, you can't go far wrong with a Beta Rev3. If you're stuck on Fantic, a 200 or 240 twinshock in useable condition might push your budget, but you should have problems keeping one running and it shouldn't lose you a penny.

Are you sure it's a 1998? I thought they made them from around 1990 to 1993 or 4 and then they started making the Fantic Section around 1995. The K Roo wasn't that great a bike and it's hardly a classic, I'd keep looking. They also didn't ride great either, quite a tall bike with iffy upside down forks. The radiator is slung under the tank, horizontally and they tended to boil over and spit scolding hot coolant over you. Quite a few turned up on the secondhand market with cooked engines back in the day, no one could be bothered fixing them as there were much better bikes on the market. I had a 1991 years ago and parts were virtually non existent back then. Same goes for the 1995 Section I had after the K Roo. I missed my Section, can't say the same about the K Roo!

Suzuki250 is right, but first find out why it pinched up in the first place and fix that. Then get a new piston and a replate or a look for a decent second hand piston and barrel.

Make sure the inlet valve is working and shutting off the gas when the tang rests on it. If dirt has got in to it or the seal on the tip of the plunger has rotted away, it'll never shut off the fuel no matter what height the tang/float is.

I wouldn't be too fussed whether it's 200 or 250. Just make sure it's not totally clapped out and check any over well. Rev3's have a few foibles, but no more than any other bike. Play close attention to the rear shock. They can break up inside, get all squishy and I believe are very hard to rebuild due to parts availabilty. Years back I had to go aftermarket, so I doubt things have got any better. Cutches drag and stick if left unused for a while, all part of the charm but the engine with knock if run on regular petrol, they need 98 ron. The Mikuni carb on models between 2000 and 2007 are a bit crude, they can lean out or dribble out on hills if the float height isn't spot on. The 2008 came with a Keihin carb that was better though a good upgrade for the Mik is a Dellorto Vhst. Most parts are still available, but I think 2000 and 2001 rear mudguards aren't. These bikes had the airbox cover in the side rather than all the later ones that had it in the seat, anything 2002 onwards is pretty interchangeable.

Sounds like a bit of piston slap to me. The bore might be worn and the piston is rattling in it as it goes up and down. If you search Youtube for 2 stroke piston slap or rattle, you should find a few videos of bikes with a similar rattle/knock. If the barrel is off, try and get someone to measure the piston and the bore for you with a proper bore gauge. The bores are nikasil plated ( a hard silicon carbide ceramic coating), so you don't rebore them out and fit a bigger piston. New coating is applied to the bore and honed down to match a new piston. If I remember correctly, Beta manuals always stated that you measure the bore after x amount of hours and if needed, replace the pistion with one a micron or two bigger. So a standard piston might be 72.5mm, but you could buy A, B & C piston kits, each one a micron or two bigger than the last. Once you exhausted the piston kits it was time to replate, if I'm right about the slap, that's where you are. Something I've done for years is apply a thin smear of grease to paper gaskets. It stops it sticking to the surfaces. Sometimes you can get away with using the gasket again, but it mainly stops you having to scrape old gasket off the machined surfaces and perhaps damaging them.

Yes, the 2000 and 2001 had the airfilter and cover on the left side of the bike, later models had them under a flap in the seat(cough)/rear mudguard so they had different rear mudguards and as PeterT states, the early ones are all gone now. I had a 2001 and a 2007 and from what I remember, it didn't look like it would have been impossible to change over to the later setup. I never tried it but some one might have.

There is a parts diagram here https://betausa.com/content/SUPPORT_PDF's/2000 Rev 125-270 2 stroke.pdf This is a later model owners manual, but most of it is useful. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/579992/Beta-Rev-3.html#manual The suspension is pretty simple, just preload and damping front and rear, there's a few guides about on youtube, though you might be fighting a losing battle if the suspension is tired out. The rear suspension unit is prone to leaking with use/age, but as it's attached direct to the swinging arm, there's only a couple of bushes top and bottom to worry about. The carbs float height needs to be spot on, otherwise it'll flood up (and dribble out of the breather) and/or lean out on climbs. They also don't like regular fuel, they can pre detonate, knock and bang, best run on 98 ron.

Join a club. Most will run a club trial once a month, usually they are self score, though you don't have to score yourself if you don't want. The club will usually be in a local area with others (combine) and you can often ride in some of their club trials along with the area or combine events (each local club hosts a trial with routes for every level of rider, you will be expected to help out on your clubs event rather than ride in it). With a club in say the North Kent combine, this should give to access to two events per month with suitable routes. Another weekend will see some clubs host Centre events, like South Eastern Centre. These are a step up so probably won't interest you just yet unless they set a route out that's suitable. On the odd "off weekend", one of the local clubs might host a wobbler event, similar to a club trial but open to all members in that particular combine to turn up and practice. Riding with other club members in organised or semi organised club/wobbler trials should give you plenty back in regards to your riding. You'll be able to study other riders fairly closely riding the same terrian and sections you will tackle, plus there's usually more than enough people around to give you some pointers (and call the ambulance if it all goes wrong 😁)

If you have entered Sidcup's evening practice trials, they are just that. No one will be there with a clipboard scrutinising your every move. There's usually a good atmosphere at practice and wobbler trials and they are held for people just like you, ok some more experienced do turn up, they need the practice the same as everyone else, but most will still remember they were just like you once. You might even get some help off of a few of them. If you are without a club I know Bexleyheath MCC pride themselves on setting out some very good club trials that accomodate every level of rider, they even had intro days, plus the North Kent Combine (which Bexleyheath are part of) did run a very good wobbler series pre covid, they might be starting that again by now.

The Techno rear brake was always a bit weak, but if it's losing pressure there's a leak somewhere, this doesn't have to mean fluid is dripping out somewhere, it could be the pistons seal in the master cylinder is leaking past. There are still rebuild kits available for the calipers but I think the master cylinder rebuild kit isn't, though the rear master cylinder as a whole is available new. Try https://trialstribulations.net/ they seem to stock plenty of parts for Betas. They are fiddly to bleed, some remove everything and hang it all up so the fluid runs down, though in the past I've back bleed rear brakes with a short pipe and large syringe. For the spindle, can't you get a new thread cut on he old, stripped one and a new nut or get a local engineer to turn you a new one using the old as a template? Other than that try your local Beta importers. Again, the linkage bearings and bushes are listed on the above site. The bearings are interferance fit, so need pushing out and the new ones pushing in. You can usually do this with a couple of sockets and a vice, a larger socket on one side to push out into and one that fits the bearings outer shell on the other side to push it into the void.

Someone has already mentioned them, but Bradford ignitons are the people to speak to. https://uk-motoplat.com/ I was under the impression the Zero/Gara's ignition is a Motoplat system. There is no seperate CDi, half of it is in the stator and the other half is in the coil. It also has a regulator that converts to DC to run the fan.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/273698715994?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=273698715994&targetid=1140014334382&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9045888&poi=&campaignid=12126078219&mkgroupid=117045670259&rlsatarget=pla-1140014334382&abcId=9300480&merchantid=7389434&gclid=Cj0KCQiA-aGCBhCwARIsAHDl5x9uDGnlMf5KXRiF6_ggtOx2XFD4t3InBshUeJ0ZPZQS8-j4im1Y1jwaAtK5EALw_wcB

There's an image of the tap, end on.

I had "Tennis Elbow" due to a knock when riding and it took over 9 months to fully recover, I was also a bit younger back then so god knows how long it would take these days. You might convince a doctor that you need cortisone injections, but recent studies have shown it's not really the best treatment as it's not good for the tendons around the joint and you're likely to benefit more from phyiso to settle the joint down, so don't pin your hopes on them. Luckily I had access to phyisos at work, but it did take some work to get it right, I wasn't impressed they gave me homework!

i started my relationship with Beta in 1991 with a Zero (which ended in 2016 with an Evo) and I loved the Zero, though they do have some flaws. I made some posts a while ago on the Zero/Gara but somehow lost my login. As already stated, the carb and engine is quite fussy to fuel level in the carbs float bowl. This needs setting quite precisely otherwise it'll dribble out or flood the engine (too high) or lean the engine out (too low) especially when the bike is inclinded one way or the other. Probably not worth it now but they run miles better on a Dellorto. It's common practice to drain the float bowl after use as modern fuels tend to gum up if left in there for too long and Beta's tend to like the higher octane fuel (98), they can predetonate and make a racket on regular that some might confuse with serious engine trouble. The clutch is typical Beta, though I seem to remember it being cable rather than hydraulic. They all tend to drag at some point even after years of Beta fiddling they still do it, it's all part of the charm! There was a spate of owners back in the day that cooked their engines, trouble was with the drive to the waterpump. It picks up drive from one end of a shaft on one side of the engine, through a couple of small bearings and a load of small seals, right through all the cases and turns the pump on the other side of the engine. Once the seals go, coolant disappears into the cases pretty quickly. Another weak point is the swinging arm. It can facture across the voids, where the bearings and bushes fit (to the frame). I snapped one clean off and another cracked across the top of both bearings/bushes, the alloy appeared pretty brittle. One final design flaw, the "nut cracker" tank/frame. Just thinking about some of the old hard come downs I had on that makes my eyes water! There are still some parts about for these, though they are getting thin on the ground now. I found a parts diagram a while ago here http://trialsport.com.au/beta/Parts/Zero 93.pdf