feetupfun

How can anyone riding a modern bike sitting down and cover the brake pedal at the same time? Twinshocks are fine, but on moderns my foot won't bend up enough if I'm sitting.

The model prefix for at least one model Yamaha TY125 is 539. The TY175 and TY125 are based on the same basic bottom end so there shouldn't be a problem if someone has made it into a 175.

Yamaha engine number prefix 539 is TY125 so yes no problems

The WES aftermarket muffler is very quiet and vary light. We have a road-registerable model TY175 here that has a quiet muffler. It is quite a bit bigger than the common TY175 cylindrical muffler but blissfully quiet. Not sure if you got that model or similar there. The muffler I'm talking about is the same as the TY125 muffler as they were sold in Germany, France and the Netherlands (and probably lots of other places). The bike we have here is called TY175JC and it came with a small snorkel on the airbox inlet and rubber fin dampers, which reduced the noise even further. Yes I dislike the noise from standard TY175 exhausts too.

I think he was having a dig at Gas Gas

Putting a thread on the OD of the flywheel is certainly a novel concept, but would not have the effect you desire. It would increase the aerodynamic drag of the flywheel which would reduce the power output of the motor, and would increase the amount of agitation of any solid material that is trapped inside. Reducing the mass of the flywheel will reduce the gyroscopic forces generated by the flywheel when the bike is turned or leaned over. The reduction in flywheel inertia will be much more noticable to the rider.

Neo the AFAM bars come from my local motorbike shop (Suzuki, Yamaha, KTM and MV Augusta) I'll post a photo showing what they look like (Wendy riding)

Sounds like the rubber intake connector has developed a leak

The coolant should be getting controlled to about 100 degrees C by the fan stopping and starting. If the fan runs all the time, the motor will run too cold. If you can hold your bare hand on the outside of the barrel for more tham 10 seconds, the barrel is 50 degrees or cooler which is way too cold for a motor to be happy. It might perform OK, but it will wear out much faster than it would if running at a constant temperature.

Both types of 348 brake pedal work well for me. Have a look at some photos of 348s and you'll see the other pedal type. The kickstart is s bit non-ergonomic in location (high and well forwards) and combined with the bigger motors (348 and 349) it can take a lot out of the rider through the course of a trial - best if you can keep the motor running - but not easy if you live somewhere hot because the motor can overheat if left idling. I find that it isn't too much effort to start if you ease it over compression before giving the starting kick. I think it would be pretty hard for a youngster to start. The 247 has the same kickstart arrangement but is easy to kickstart due to the smaller displacement motor.

Without knowing what your lever is like that is a pretty hard question to answer. Some 348s have a folding tip lever that would be pretty hard to use if the tip was missing. Have you lowered the footpegs? Both types of standard 348 brake pedal work pretty well with the standard footpeg location.

Neo I hope I've beaten Maree to this one. I couldn't resist asking have you ever fitted Bach Busters to your Handel Bars? AFAM bars are quite crash resistant as far as 7/8" bars go and nice ergos too. David Lahey

Aussie Bultaco fanatic Paul Paterson was given a very nice birthday cake. http://www.trials.com.au/phpBB3/viewtopic....;p=14851#p14851

I hope they do make new OSSA MARs again. They are very nice to ride. Yes that OSSA my wife was riding in that photo still runs. I fact it runs and rides like a dream. Here is a more recent photo it and having the M49 in the photo probably makes it a legit photo for the Bultaco forum.

Sorry its not a Bultaco but its closer than a Beta or a Yamaha and I didn't have to stage a photo. I had forgotten about this photo which was taken in about 2005.

Even with road pressure, competition trials tyres are terrible when you lean the bike in a turn due to the squareness of the tyre profile. To answer your question, 14 psi front and rear is usually enough to prevent overheating the tyres at high speed on bitumen.

I could post a photo of my wife riding a trials bike - the only problem is that the only photos are of her riding Yamahas and Betas and this is the Bultaco forum! Sounds like a good excuse to get a Bultaco out for some photos.

quote name='Greeves' post='199498' date='Apr 20 2009, 10:10 AM']At last it will cost you a lot of money in romantic dinners, operas, romantic comedy movies, visits to your in-law family and all this sort of boaring things that wifes enjoy to do if you want them to live a live in peace with your classic bikes (our real and true loves). Mine looked dissapointed when I told her she should use Castrol TTS better than the perfume she normally uses. Hey Greeves my wife read your posting and thinks those romantic things you do with your wife are a great idea. Thanks mate. I thought I was going OK with her till now.

Do you mean the DT200 (water cooled 1987 - mid 1990s), or the DT175 (air cooled and same motor from 1978 to whenever they stopped making them some time in the late 1990s)?

yeS iT shoulD fiT

Alan springs are rated by the amount of force it takes to compress them a certain distance. Common units are pounds per inch or newtons per mm. You should probably aim for two things with your TY250 springs: Shockies approx 40% to 50% compressed with you aboard and balanced With no-one on the bike, the rear suspension should sit almost topped out (about 5mm from the top) The sequence to use is to set the preload to give the 5mm static sag and then see how far they compress with you on board. The ones that compress 40% to 50% with you on board are the best. The rebound issue you mentioned is more likely to be a problem with a lack of rebound damping than with the spring rate. About the relative stiffness of your springs, spring rate (stiffness) is proportional to the wire diameter, but it is also inversely proportional to the total length of the wire (coil diameter x pi times x number of coils). Wire diameter up - stiffness up Coil diameter up - stiffness down Number of coils up - stiffness down If you want to work out what rate your springs are, just google spring rate calculation and you will find a formula to use. Some shockies damping works with the shockies either way. Some work only with the rod at the top, some only with the rod at the bottom. If you test them by hand with the springs off, you should be able to tell what is happening.

Yes I use the 125mm oil height method 5WT for oil is too light for those forks (they are not cartridge forks) 15WT or 20WT is more likely to be what you want

You probably have a crankcase air leak by the sound of it. Check the cylinder base gasket for leaks and the gasket between the carby and the inlet tube, unless it has a hose in which case check the hose for cracks. You have probably checked but haven't said that fuel is getting into the float bowl. Make sure there is no bung missing from the bottom of the crankcases (some bikes have a bung to let water out of a drowned motor)

Yes the crankshaft should be able to move within the bearing inner ring for thermal expansion so don't use Loctite bearing mount on it. Just because the bearing seat on the crankshaft is scored does not mean it will be a problem, provided any raised sections are removed. I would be concerned if there was scoring where the seal lips run as that would wear the seal lips out in no time.

Front mount bolt is M8 and has no bush in the motor Top rear bolt is M8 and has a rubber bush and steel sleeve inside the rubber bush. Both go right through the motor casings and the frame lugs should clamp to the steel sleeve. Bottom rear with welded on nut - I couldn't see with the motors is situ if they are M8 or M10, but there is no bush in this lug. I wouldn't be surprised if someone had made some of the holes a bit oversize because the TY175 frame does move out of shape with use and unless it gets pushed back in shape after taking the motor out, the holes don't line up when reinstalling the motor in the frame.