feetupfun

The plastic bag is a waste of time. Moisture forms on the bearing from the atmosphere after you take the bearing out of the freezer - it's bone dry inside a freezer.

Wow I had no idea you guys in the UK were such trusting gentlemen regarding the rules. Over here it is fair game to take any route that gets you through your own colour gates. As a consequence, we tend to use a lot of tape to limit creativity of line selection to that line intended by the C of C. In the case of that diagram, there would be red tape joining the middle three red arrows. For bdmc (applying your rules for not going through a gate of another colour to the section in the diagram), how does the red route rider get out the end of the section without going between the two blue markers?

12 Stone + TY175 = Falcons with 50lb springs

You will find a button if you become a Site Supporter

You can do it by becoming a Trials Central "Supporter" or by posting it in photobucket and putting a link in your TC posting.

Metal shavings = pull that fork leg apart to investigate. Many possibilities for cause. Not worth speculating.

Yes the killswitch should earth the LT side of the HT coil when pushed. Dunno about your blue wire though - I think all my TYs have a black wire to the LT side of the HT coil.

A bent tube or bent tubes can cause this effect. You should be able to check for this by loosening off the tube clamps for one tube and the axle clamp and rotating the fork tube within its clamp. Another way to find out where the stickiness is coming from is to put the bike on a stand and take off the fork caps. Move the wheel up and down through the stroke. That way you take the spring force and air pressure out of the equation.

You can use less of a modern semi-synthetic or semi-synthetic two-stroke oil than what you would have used of a basic mineral-based two-stroke oil in the 1970s. How much less depends on how game you are, how hot it is where you ride, how you ride and many other factors. I live in a very hot place and sometimes get my 1970s trials bike motors very hot so I use 3% (33:1) semi-synthetic. Good quality modern oils produce very little smoke if the jetting is good, even at 3% mix. You have to make a very large change in oil/fuel ratio to affect the fuel/air mixture. If you used 5% (20:1) in the 1970s and want to run 2.5% (40:1) now with modern oil, you will probably not make a detectable difference to the way the motor performs.

Sorry but there are plenty of different types of rebuildable shockies, old and new, and there are plenty of old, rebuildable shockies that are not worth rebuilding. If you post a picture of what you have, you will probably get a much better answer. Don't worry, there is a potential goldmine of information about shockies available from contributors to this forum.

That kickstart on eBay appears to be the wrong shape to work well on a TY175

Maybe a broken con-rod? Is the piston moving when you kick it? Is the crankshaft/flywheel turning when you kick it?

If you use Pursang in-line forks in Sherpa T clamps, in a standard Sherpa T frame, set to provide the same height for the front end, you will probably have interference issues with the front wheel and the front downtube when the forks are compressed. If you use long fork tubes to provide the required clearance for the wheel, you will make the front higher and the steering even slower than it is already. You may be on the right track with the geometry change though. A couple of us experimented with our KT250s last year and one experiment was very similar to what you are suggesting. We fitted TY250 (in-line) forks and wheel into the KT250 clamps. KT forks have a similar axle offset to Sherpa T forks. The front end ended up being very close to being the same height as standard. The effect was that the KT then steered like a TY250 (steering became quicker). That experiment worked OK though because there is more clearance for the front wheel on a KT than on a Sherpa T. I like to have bikes set up to feel correct for the period though so it is back to being a normal KT again now. There really is nothing "wrong" with a Sherpa T, they just require a different riding style and it is hard initially to swap between something like a TY250 or an OSSA and a Sherpa T, but if you spend time on the Bully and ride in a way that suit the bike, they do feel great to ride. I totally agree with Woody and whoever else said it on the path you should take - longer shockies or shockie extensions will make the world of difference to the steering and it is so easy to do! A bloke over here made up neat-looking flat steel brackets for the bottom shockie mounts of his M198 that fit over the bottom shock mounts and bolt to the holes just ahead of the shock mounts - no welding required and no damage to the frame. Instant quicker steering! I rode it like that and the bike that the steering reminded me most of was my 250 Godden Majesty (and they steer pretty well)

The WES muffler pipe is straight and misses the shock so unless your muffler has the entry pipe on the "wrong" side, there is something pretty strange going on.

Good to see you have put some photos up. What you need to do to know of you can buy a different needle and needle jet is to take the needle jet out and read the stampings on it and on the needle and compare them with what is available from the Mikuni agents and maybe from the manufacturer of the bike that the carby came from originally. I would imagine it came from something like a late '60s early '70s trailbike of about 175cc like a Yamaha CT3 or Suzuki TS185. The needle jet will have both size and type ID stampings like the stampings on the slide. The square-in-a-square stamping just means the part is genuine Mikuni. I also suggest you post your next questions about your OSSA in the Twinshock forum as I only noticed your latest posting by accident in the "Introductions" forum.

I only buy bikes I have the hots for and the price is usually quite irrelevant. If it is a 349 that you want, and it is only being offered to you, keep trying to get your price. What do you have to lose? If you don't know what bike you really want, buying your buddies 349 just because it is available to you is probably not the best move.

I got bombarded with popups and got out as fast as I could. Didn't get as far as seeing any content.

No both are 6 speed An easy way to tell is that 348s have frame tubes under the motor 349s have an aluminium plate 348s have a rear frame loop and 349s don't The motors look different too but it is hard to describe the differences Both have motor prefix 51M 348 - 1976, 77, 78 349 - 1979, 80, 81, 82, .....

Lizzy The jetting in the 26mm Mikuni KT250 carby on my 250 OSSA is: Main Jet 85R (be careful here because the type of main jet in this carby is different to what is in an aftermarket pattern Mikuni and probably uses a different numbering/hole size system also) - the hole size is much bigger than an 85 size jet would be in an aftermarket VM Mikuni main jet. Air jet 2.5mm Needle 5D1 with clip in mid position Needle jet O-8 Needle jet type 8 172 Slide cutaway 2.0mm Pilot jet 30 Air screw 1.5 turns Checking in my Mikuni catalog, I see that 5D1 needles and 172 pattern needle jets are not not listed as spare parts. This is common with OEM Mikuni carbies and probably means you will need to either buy the items from Kawasaki as spare parts or use the Mikuni catalogue information to choose something dimensionally close to them. I still haven't found the DT175 carby jetting specs for use on a M198 but I do remember it was very close to standard DT175 jetting.

These photos are of my son Darcy at a trials riding demonstration yesterday on his OSET 16. I'm very proud of him going over the pallets as it is much higher than obstacles has ridden before. David Lahey

Paul, I have a 250 MAR with a Mikuni carby but it is an OEM Kawasaki KT250 26mm Mikuni carby, which is quite different to an off-the-shelf 26mm VM Mikuni carby and the main jet in it uses a different sizing code to an off-the-shelf VM26 Mikuni. I've not yet looked at the sizing codes on the needle and needle jet to see if they are recognisable as being the same system as for off-the-shelf Mikunis, but will have a look today and reply again. 26mm Mikuni OEM carbies from DT175, KT250, RD350, TY250 are all quite different designs and also to what you get if you buy a new carby from Mikuni. My other comment is that a friend has his M198 (238cc) Sherpa T running wonderfully with a DT175 OEM carby and somewhere in my shed I have his jetting specs. From what I have found with swapping carbies between 250cc 2 stroke trials bikes, a carby that works well on one non-reed motor will usually work quite well on another non-reed motor so his DT175 carby specs might also work with your OSSA. It would help if you could tell us what sort of Mikuni carby you have there and what size it is. David

Thanks Alan. Thats great to hear.

You might be lucky and find a set of those chinese footpegs that fit the twinshock TY with a bit of grinding, drilling or filing. A friend of mine did just that to get pegs for his KT250. There was only minor mods needed to make them fit. Where I live there are shops that sell those cheap chinese pretend MX bikes and you can measure the cheap accessory footpegs there to find something that can be made to fit, if you are so inclined. I would have expected that sort of shop would exist in most countries. The weld-on extensions for TY pegs work pretty well and would be a known quantity as far as durability goes.

Sounds like a crankcase air leak has developed - possible locations: rubber connector between carby and reed cage cylinder base gasket crankshaft seal

Symptoms indicate: Slipping clutch - maybe needs freeplay adjustment or has sticky clutch cable Possible sticking throttle slide/throttle cable