feetupfun

Yes 25 normally means 0.25mm oversize which is first oversize. The bolts that hold the cylinder on are aluminium nuts and usually cause problems if they have never been off before but your being first oversize may be less frozen in place. The main problem is usually corrosion product and dirt between the OD of the nut and the cylinder. If there is no way to grip the nut or loosen it, you can drill the stud away and fit a new stud and nut. A simple cylindrical steel drill guide that fits neatly in the hole through the fins will allow you to keep the drill on track.

It doesn't matter if it is a Bultaco or a Montesa or a whatever, if it has a decent spark, correct timing, enough compression and not too lean on the idle and pilot mixtures, it will start first kick when warm. That must be exhausting kicking a 325 that much. If my 348 Monty didn't start first kick when warm, I don't think I would be able to finish a trial - I would be so exhausted. It should start on first or second kick when cold too. From what I've found, 325s are sensitive to the timing of the spark being just right for easy starting when warm. For the poor cold starting, it may be a carby problem too making it worse. If you have the Amal with a tickler, try leaning the bike over a bit to raise the hole where the fuel comes out, to get a bit more into the motor when you do the tickling. That works for my bikes with tickler Amals (M49 Sherpa T and M138 Alpina).

Yellow or orange or white TY175 and what country?

Steve, in my browser at home, your photos were mirror-imaged so I joked about it being a left handed motor. I'm at work now on a different computor (and sober) and the pictures are the right way around. Sorry for the confusion. David

If you heat the case with gravity helping they will probably just fall out. Use an oven to heat it evenly to about 160 degrees C.

This might be a little obvious but you didn't actually say if you checked that there was coolant in the coolant system or not. There is no crankcase breather on a two stroke. Do you mean gearbox breather or coolant system overflow line or mag case breather?

I see you have a special left-handed Cota 349 there with the primary drive and gearshift on the left side. That must be a rare one! Congratulations by the way. Good to see you are getting closer to getting it running right. I can feel for you as I went through similar on my 348.

Yes your problem is probably with your fuel. Rev 3s tend to do that on fuel that is too old or is too low an octane rating. You can reduce it by optimising your pilot jet size but if you use good fuel you will probably not have to do anything else.

I suspect that if you could ride both bikes back to back, you would pick the substantial improvements in suspension, weight, steering and braking. The other consideration is that the clubman route is probably so easy that you could comfortably ride it on a Twinshock. We had a series here last year that rode on clubman lines and the twinshock class was won by a rider on a legit pre-65 bike - and if he had entered the clubman class and ridden against modern bikes on his pre-65, he would have won clubman class. He's not a special rider - it's just that clubman is not usually difficult enough to give modern bikes any advantage.

Yours looks like a Series 2 Cota 247. It may well be from 1974 but they sold the same bike for a few years probably 1973 - 1975. I think the Series 3 247 (Ulf Karlsson Replica) came out in 1976.

The diameters may be right but is the length right too?

Maybe it was this one about Cota 348 jetting http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/index....c=23543&hl=

Bikes of that era are not popular at the moment. Late model bikes and Classic and Twinshock are popular and there are classes and events that cater for them. That Gas Gas would be much harder to ride than a modern bike and there is no separate class for that age bike. There is an air-cooled monoshock class in some places but it has not really taken off yet. There are better air-cooled monos than late 1980s Yamahas.

Not typo. I'm giving a measurement for the outer surface of the flywheel, not the distance the piston moves. Standard TY250A spark timing measured using piston movement is 3.1mm BTDC.

If you want to check if your timing is right with a timing strobe, it should be about 22mm BTDC as measured on the OD of the flywheel. You will probably have to make your own marks on the flywheel because Yamaha did not mark them. You will know when you have everything right because with the TK carby, and everything set to normal, that motor is one of the smoothest and most even running two strokes you will find, and has plenty of stick to boot.

Hey Pete Bulpedro. I agree with you about the M85. They are quite OK once geared low enough. The closest Alpina to the Sherpa T of the same vintage. The M85 was my first Bultaco and I rode it in trials and enduros back in 1976. I remember it cost $450 and in quite sad condition when I bought it in 1975. Here is a picture taken in 1976 after I repainted it.

The 348s all came with the same wheelbase. The first 349 (the one with the red tank with a tube in the side of the tank as a depth guage) has a wheelbase approx 25mm longer than a 348. The next model 349 (the White Wonder) has a wheelbase the same as the 348s. The 349 frame is not just missing the tubes under the engine and at the rear loop, but is also more compact vertically around the seat/tank junction area. The gearbox output sprocket on the 348 is on a taper. On 349s there is a quick-release mechanism and spline. The RH engine cover is different from 348 to 349 (to allow rapid change of sprocket) The 348 came with chain guide tubes. 349 came with a spring loaded tensioner. The White Wonder 349 has the fork tubes closer together than the 348. Not sure about first model 349. The gear shift indexing on the 349 has a slightly different ratchet arrangement which made shifting more positive. The 349 has a huge muffler compared witht the 348. The 348s came with 1" handlebars stepped down at the ends for the controls. 349s came with normal 7/8" bars. The 348 is a mighty tractor. The 349 is even mightier. Both take a lot of oommph to kick over. They are both pretty much the same weight.

Use top gear not third and let it warm up. The higher the gear, the greater torque on the clutch. Another thing that will help with communication - if a clutch is engaged, it is transmitting torque. If it is disengaged, the plates are slipping past each other.

With new slide, new needle (U) and new needle jet (107), standard pilot jet and correct float level, it tends to 4 stroke just above where the pilot jet effect is strongest - and runs great everywhere else. I've then raised the slide cutaway in stages as far as I can and the 4 stroking is still there. The next thing I want to try is a 106 needle jet instead of the 107, hoping to get it slightly leaner at that part of the needle. I've also ordered a needle as used in the 238cc Sherpa T with Mk 2 AMAL to experiment with if the 106 needle jet doesn't get me what I want. Yes it costs a small fortune to buy the AMAL parts and economically it would make much more sense to fit a new Mikuni - but I seem to enjoy the challenge. If I wanted things to be easy, I wouldn't ride 35 year old Spanish trials bikes.

A 26mm VM Mikuni will fit directly to the engine side connector, but the Mikuni inlet bell OD is smaller diameter than the AMAL mk2, so you would need to fit a sleeve. I have done a test fitting on my 348 with a 26mm VM, but am persevering with getting it to run right with the AMAL at this stage.

What conditions of load, throttle, RPM is the motor under at the time the motor is pinking? How can you tell it is getting too hot? Is the bore/rings run in yet? Is the carby getting enough fuel (blocked fuel tank vent?) If you have still got the rubber silencer in the airbox lid and the big boxy muffler, the jetting will need to be 1N4 series TY175 rather than 525 series TY175.

My 1981 Godden 250 frame has the same diameter bearing seats in the frame as the TY250 and TY175

I've so far fitted tube type IRCs to the rear wheels of: TY250B Majesty (TY250D wheel) OSSA MAR MkII (shoulderless Akront) and found that after a bit of perseverance and leaving them pumped up to 20psi between rides, that the IRC stays on these rims at 6psi. I also find that the tube gets moved around in one direction inside the tyre.

Yes that is a good idea your friend suggested. I ground down an 8mm section of hex key to 7mm A/F and turned it with a single hex socket and yes it was tight all right having never been off before.