feetupfun

first gear is at the bottom

I have no idea. You could try phoning them to find out. Just because I bought something many years ago doesn't mean I would buy the same thing again. Things change. If I wanted to buy a TY ignition today it would be from Rex's Speed Shop. Those ignitions from John Cane many years ago are still going perfectly, as are my TYs that have standard Yamaha ignition systems.

That's what I was thinking too

There should be a washer under the clamp screw. Here are some tricks to help you: When changing the points setting, clamp the points just firmly enough so they don't move, but loose enough that you can just move them by twisting a flat, mid-width screwdriver blade. It helps to use a screwdriver that is not attracted to magnets because those flywheel magnets are pretty strong. Make a timing mark on your flywheel rim at the spot where the points should open. You should not have had to take the head or the tank off to set the timing. To find where to put this timing mark, make a mark on the flywheel rim (with the piston at top dead centre) beside one of the holes for the cover screws. From the TDC mark, measure 24mm counter-clockwise around the steel band on the flywheel and make another mark. That's the timing mark. You can find top dead centre on a TY250 with the tank and head in place by putting something down through the plug hole and using it to feel what the piston is doing. Move the flywheel until you can feel that the piston is at the top and that's top dead centre. The 24 mm measured on the flywheel reproduces the piston being whatever the standard timing distance is in mm BTDC. Yes electronic ignition is a popular way to get a bike running well if you are not confident setting points.

Are you saying you won't ride it until the frame is painted the original colour?

Common issues are: Bent or cracked clutch actuator arm. Split mid section of the exhaust.

Using the number is not that easy. If you post a photo showing the head and cylinder finning and the type of connection for the carby you will probably get an ID on the cylinder and head. The ID number for the bottom end of the motor is usually on one of the front engine mounting lugs.

Excellent. I see they do them in 50, 55 and 58 teeth.

I recently bought one from PBI sprockets in the USA. You can get any sort of rear wheel sprocket from them. When you order you nominate the chain type, number of teeth and the diameter of the hole in the middle. They will even drill the mounting holes for you if you want but I usually do that bit. They are flat sprockets so you need a spacer ring under them to get the chain alignment right.

No I don't. They are made for it. I've been trail riding with trials pressures in competition trials tyres for about 40 years now and the only problem comes if you ride at sustained high speed which can cause them to overheat. If it is trail riding, no issues whatsoever. What's the point of fitting a rear trials tyre and running high pressure anyway? They are terrible to ride with unless the pressure is down near 4 psi on the rear. Might as well stick with a knobby. It would be better to ride with than a trials tyre with too much pressure in it.

It's true that it does nothing for the internal gear ratios but the lower the overall gearing, the closer the bike speed is at the same RPM in successive gears. Imagine that a bike will do 100 km/h at 5000 RPM in 5th gear with standard gearing and it can do 80 km/h in 4th gear at 5000 RPM. That is a speed difference of 100 - 80 = 20 km/h between those two gears. Then you gear it down by 10 %. With the lower gearing it now only does 0.9 x 100 = 90 km/h in 5th gear at 5000 RPM and it does 0.9 x 80 = 72 km/h in 4th gear at 5000 RPM. That is a speed difference of 90 - 72 = 18 km/h difference between those two gears.

Tilllerman I think I need to clarify: 12/55 is even better than 13/53 for trail riding, because it brings 3rd 4th and 5th gear even closer together than 13/53. For some reason I thought you were thinking about getting a 14T front. The reason I said to take off in 3rd gear is because you said you were not liking taking off in 1st gear. A TY250 with 12/55 gearing can start off easily in any gear except 5th. When I said that you should use the TY250 broad power to your advantage I meant that when riding single track you should avoid rowing up and down through the gears. I've just seen the photos of your bike and that rear tyre will be making it much harder to ride rocky and loose trails than if you had a competition trials tyre on it with 4 psi.

RM is one of the prefixes Bultaco used on engine numbers. The R is the capacity and the M is for motor. The A at the end means it is from a model 198A not from a model 198

Maybe the linkage broke? It does look fairly odd with those shocks there

When you say "There is a few bits missing as you can see from the picture", I have looked but can't see any missing parts so what parts are missing?

Lots of different dogleg lever blades fit TY250 mounts and cables. One of my favourite dogleg levers on old Japanese trials bikes is (genuine) Suzuki RM80X. They are very malleable. You can also use mounts that have a split clamp which makes it possible to change out a broken mount without removing/replacing the grips.

13-53 is good for trail riding and only use 3rd 4th and 5th. When you take off, use 3rd gear. 1st and 2nd are rarely used for anything except trials sections. 14-53 puts 3rd 4th and 5th too far apart for trail riding. Leave it in one gear and use the broad power range. Most of my flowing single track is done in 4th gear and for really tight corners (like when you actually have to turn the bars) I fan the clutch for a moment on exit. Steep and rocky trails use 3rd gear. Extreme steep and rocky trail use 2nd gear. Modifying the engine is a waste of money for what you are doing with the bike. It is an excellent motor completely standard. Logs are successfully crossed using rider technique. Think about MTB (bicycle riders) jumping a log. They don't have boyesen reeds and their motor is only about 0.25 HP but they can fly over logs at speed. Riding across logs is a valuable trials technique that there are endless training videos about and success comes with knowing the techniques and practicing them. Barkbusters are good for avoiding catching lever tips on vegetation but even the lightest versions affect the steering when doing competition trials riding. If you are only trail riding they are fine.

That steel band is a tight fit on there. Yes it can be taken off and put back on but one would need to take great care in the process to avoid damaging the magnets or the flywheel cup. Using a purpose-designed flywheel holder and pushing/pulling tool would remove most of the risk. I was so cautious when I removed one of them I cut it through with a hacksaw to release it and minimise the risk of damaging the flywheel. I lend that flywheel to people who are thinking about taking their weight band off so they can try their bike that way first. None of them have removed their own band after trying that flywheel out first, but some have lightened their BCDE models weight band. Note that the A model already has a light weight band, much lighter than the BCDE models. In my experience, trail riding an A model is brilliant fun and you can ride the things very fast in single track conditions even with the standard 16 HP engine with standard flywheel, due to their broad power, light weight and excellent handling. 95% of riding over expected logs and unexpected logs is rider weight transfer. The trick with going fast with one of these bikes is to stay on the pegs and stay in one gear and use the broad power. Low gearing gets 3rd 4th and 5th gears close together and these are the gears you use trail riding. Road gearing makes for big gaps between those gears.

Some people cut the TY250 LHS cover back to expose the sprocket to allow better mud clearing. Where I live it is compulsory to guard the front sprocket in competition use and we don't get much mud so it's very rare to see shortened covers here. Never heard of it being done to help prevent chain problems following a chain failure and I can't see how it would help with that. On the TY175 in the 1970s, it was common to cut the LHS cover in two so you could change the front sprocket without taking the flywheel cover off. The rear half of the cover was still held in place by two screws so you still had the sprocket guarded. People did this because TY175s were often used for both trials riding and for trail riding and on the road so owners were frequently changing out the front sprocket. I was one of those riders in the 1970s and used a 13T for trials and a 15T for trail riding and a 16T for road riding. Here's a photo of a TY250 with the later model LH cover shortened found after about 20 seconds of searching google images.

The standard sprocket retaining nut is 26mm AF. There is no locknut.

If it goes good before it dies during sustained high power then it's not float height. From what you have said it sounds like the fuel level goes down with sustained high power. The usual causes for this (apart from low fuel level in the tank which you have already tested for) are: Restrictive fuel tap. I can see in your photo that you have the original type fuel tap and they are notorious for having a poor flow rate. Blocked strainer on the fuel tap inlet. Blocked fuel strainer inside the banjo fitting on the carby. Blocked in-line fuel strainer. Blocked tank vent. To answer your question about the float height yes you can adjust the fuel height by using different thickness bowl gaskets. If I have misinterpreted what you said and you are actually saying that it dies when the front of the bike is above the back of the bike then that is a different kettle of fish and you can test for this by lifting the front of the bike up with the motor running and see if it makes a difference. There is a weakness with concentric bowl AMAL carbys in that if the front of the bike goes a lot lower than the back of the bike as in dropping down something extremely steep, the idle speed can drop off sharply. That weakness is one reason I use a modern carby on my model 49.

And it's known as a Beta Techno. The Techno series went from 1994 to 1999.

Mine came from Ivan Cirre in Spain. You will find their website using Google. It was the only place I could find one when I was looking about 10 years ago. They are probably more easily sourced nowadays. In Motion has them on their webpage but it is saying out of stock just now. A friend of mine made one that works well too. It wouldn't be hard

I run an aftermarket (modern) replica trapezoid end muffler on my model 49 and it does not take anything away except noise. I'm fairly sure mine is different inside to the genuine Bultaco trapezoid end muffler

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