feetupfun

Yes please post photos. I have one apart at home I can compare yours to

It looks like you have tightened the triple clamps up with the top one rotated a bit relative to the bottom one. Back off the clamps for the steering head axle and the clamps for the fork tubes and you should be able to move the fork bottoms so that the wheel axle is parallel to the top triple clamp. I suggest you clamp the bottom fork tube clamps first, then the steering axle clamp and top nut, then the top fork tube clamps in that sequence

That torque setting is only to stop them from unscrewing. The screws are intended to be bottomed out.

M49 is about 95kg without the lights

Those kickstarts may well fit in place, but will hit the footpeg. No problem if you don't mind lifting the peg up to start it. Your clutch case looks like it has been repaired previously Not all YZ/MX/IT 125/175 clutch covers will fit You can always take a scan of your clutch cover gasket and email it to whoever is wanting to sell you a cover to see if the shape is right, or get them to send you a scan of their cover gasket surface.

make sure you fix the kickstart stop before you try and start it again. They have a design weakness that allows the stop to rotate on the shaft, causing the clamp screw to puncture the casing

If you just want something to look at, then whichever model you like the look of most. They are all good to ride, and all have good reliability. Replica fuel tanks are not available for all models.

you can buy felt pads from hardware stores for putting under the legs of furniture

By the way your sliders/bottles/outers/bottoms are definitely A model because the oil drain screws face outwards. On later model TY250 twinshock forks the drain screws face rearwards

TY250 - A model I think - with parts spread out along damper rod to show correct assembly The circlip/snapring that holds the anti-bottoming socket in the fork tube is not shown

hard to do this just with words. If you say which TY250 you have I might be able to post up an exploded parts diagram or a photo showing what you want to know

Yes parallel yokes have the fork tubes parallel with the steering stem. You can change the trail by changing either the angular offset of the fork tubes, the linear offset of the fork tubes (your X distance), the amount of axle offset or even the steering rake angle or any combination of them. The geometry of the fork tube holes in the standard Bultaco Sherpa T yokes is very good for trials. If you fit late model Alpina yokes, the trail dimension will be increased (heavier steering at standstill). The most common thing people do to modify Bultaco steering geometry is to steepen the rake angle. This can be done on a Sherpa T by lowering the front of the bike, raising the rear of the bike, or doing a frame chop. Making the rake steeper has the effect of making the steering lighter when the bike is stationary, but loading the steering up more in riding situations when the trail goes negative. Works racing (MX and Road Racing) bikes have adjustable steering rake angle using eccentric sleeves inside the steering stem. That would be a pretty cool modification that would allow you to experiment with rake angle to see what suited you best

Thanks Bondy I've been wanting to see what those tanks look like painted. Very nice job you've done

there is automated content monitoring on these forums that deletes some content automatically. I suspect you might have posted a web address that is on the list.

OK here's a reply about swapping forks There's a bloke here who fitted a TLR250 front end to his Bultaco but it was not for the forks, he wanted to improve the front brakes and it was easiest to do it that way. Another bloke here fitted and upside-down forks front end (Paoli?)off an early model Beta or late model Fantic fitted to a Bultaco, and that was mainly to make it easy to fit a front disc brake. Both of them looked ridiculous. The one with the Paoli front end got converted back to standard so he could ride in Twinshock class, and the bloke with the TLR front end stopped riding it and went back to riding a modern bike. Meanwhile, thousands of other people have not fitted different forks to their Bultacos, and continue to get great enjoyment from riding them that way. If your forks are still topping out with 200ml of 20 weight oil/leg, then there are a few possible causes: Someone has taken the anti-topping springs out, there is way too much fork spring preload, or the forks have been assembled incorrectly

There is usually more required to get the front brakes working well than fitting new shoes and a new cable

Clutch cable has very little load so is not that critical which one you get as long as it is a lined outer. The Yamaha item works very well. The routing of the clutch cable on that bike is important. I have seen some bizarre variations of clutch cable routing on TY175s. Aim to maximise the radii of curves, minimise the number of curves and consider the effect of the steering moving through its full travel

The best front brake cable available for the TY175 is the genuine Yamaha part

The photo of you on the Scorpa is showing rear suspension that looks pretty well spot-on for sag. In trials, having only a small amount of "bump" travel when you are riding flat ground is irrelevant to how it works in the section, because you should be unweighting before hitting things. I would worry a lot less about static sag with you aboard. I'm about that same weight too and find the standard springs on all the modern bikes I have ridden to function perfectly for me. If the rear is going down too far on the Beta and other bikes with the standard suspension settings, maybe you are not positioning your body correctly. There should be no forces acting on your arms when you are standing up and the bike is at equilibrium

the motor covers have been polished instead of the original black paint finish? using Pirelli tyres? AMAL carby (not Bing)?

If you think the stator winding might have a problem, measure the resistance of the winding with it assembled on the stator plate and with the stator plate on the motor Another thought is to check for high resistance between the stator coil earth at the laminations, and the earth side of the HT coil. Sometimes people paint the frame then refit the motor and HT coil without thinking of them needing to be electrically conducting to the frame (unless there is an earth wire joining the stator to the HT coil)

you can change the RPM that the clutch drives at by either doing what paul250 said, or by changing the clutch bobweight spring settings. Our 2010 model GG50 clutch engaged at too high RPM when new and I got it to engage at much lower RPM by removing two of the four bobweight springs. You could also change it by reducing the bobweight spring preload. I suspect that the same motor might also be used in a kids MX bike and all the motors are set up for that application. It only takes a few minutes to make changes to the clutch settings.

a friend of mine has one of those bikes and it also behaves strangely. In his case, the idle speed when warm varies with the angle that the bike is leaned over. He has taken it to the local Honda shop and the mechanic could not find anything wrong with the way the carby was set up. I have ridden it in competition sections and did not notice anything happening with idle speed. The only time I noticed it was with the bike stopped and leaning it over from side to side.

Yes John my memory is definitely going somewhere. Of course you're right, my photo shows my old M99. I just edited the posting

Yes lots of parts are interchangeable but some are not. You just need to tell the people you want to buy parts from which model Bultaco the part is for. If you take decent photos of the bits you are worried about, there are many people on these forums that will be able to identify which model Bultaco it comes from. From what we have seen in your photos it looks like the bike is mostly model 85, but has a later model front wheel and motor. Haven't seen the exhaust yet