feetupfun

Pat those photos in the link from Ourian are of my bike (I am David Lahey)

Pat I think they are my pegs you are asking about. They are modified Sammy Miller Products footpegs. The modification was to fit a self-retracting pin on the RH peg. If that is what you are wanting I can probably find the photos showing how to do it

HDPE is rated for continuous 110degrees C and 120 degrees for short periods. Hose fittings are readily available. It is called black poly here and is commonly used for irrigation and mains pressure water plumbing.

One of the weaknesses of the TY175 kickstart is that the stop is not very well fixed to the shaft. The usual problem this causes is that the kickstart shaft over-rotates when returning, which causes the head of the clamp screw on the kickstart lever spline to punch a hole in the casing. I've included a photo showing how that stop should look ie square and flush The other thought I had was that you have not shown what your cover looks like - I'm wondering if you are using one of the YZ125C/X covers which might have a different dimension to the inside of the steel bush for the kickstart shaft. The cover I've shown is a TY175 cover

Yes please post photos. I have one apart at home I can compare yours to

It looks like you have tightened the triple clamps up with the top one rotated a bit relative to the bottom one. Back off the clamps for the steering head axle and the clamps for the fork tubes and you should be able to move the fork bottoms so that the wheel axle is parallel to the top triple clamp. I suggest you clamp the bottom fork tube clamps first, then the steering axle clamp and top nut, then the top fork tube clamps in that sequence

That torque setting is only to stop them from unscrewing. The screws are intended to be bottomed out.

M49 is about 95kg without the lights

Those kickstarts may well fit in place, but will hit the footpeg. No problem if you don't mind lifting the peg up to start it. Your clutch case looks like it has been repaired previously Not all YZ/MX/IT 125/175 clutch covers will fit You can always take a scan of your clutch cover gasket and email it to whoever is wanting to sell you a cover to see if the shape is right, or get them to send you a scan of their cover gasket surface.

make sure you fix the kickstart stop before you try and start it again. They have a design weakness that allows the stop to rotate on the shaft, causing the clamp screw to puncture the casing

If you just want something to look at, then whichever model you like the look of most. They are all good to ride, and all have good reliability. Replica fuel tanks are not available for all models.

you can buy felt pads from hardware stores for putting under the legs of furniture

By the way your sliders/bottles/outers/bottoms are definitely A model because the oil drain screws face outwards. On later model TY250 twinshock forks the drain screws face rearwards

TY250 - A model I think - with parts spread out along damper rod to show correct assembly The circlip/snapring that holds the anti-bottoming socket in the fork tube is not shown

hard to do this just with words. If you say which TY250 you have I might be able to post up an exploded parts diagram or a photo showing what you want to know

Yes parallel yokes have the fork tubes parallel with the steering stem. You can change the trail by changing either the angular offset of the fork tubes, the linear offset of the fork tubes (your X distance), the amount of axle offset or even the steering rake angle or any combination of them. The geometry of the fork tube holes in the standard Bultaco Sherpa T yokes is very good for trials. If you fit late model Alpina yokes, the trail dimension will be increased (heavier steering at standstill). The most common thing people do to modify Bultaco steering geometry is to steepen the rake angle. This can be done on a Sherpa T by lowering the front of the bike, raising the rear of the bike, or doing a frame chop. Making the rake steeper has the effect of making the steering lighter when the bike is stationary, but loading the steering up more in riding situations when the trail goes negative. Works racing (MX and Road Racing) bikes have adjustable steering rake angle using eccentric sleeves inside the steering stem. That would be a pretty cool modification that would allow you to experiment with rake angle to see what suited you best

Thanks Bondy I've been wanting to see what those tanks look like painted. Very nice job you've done

there is automated content monitoring on these forums that deletes some content automatically. I suspect you might have posted a web address that is on the list.

OK here's a reply about swapping forks There's a bloke here who fitted a TLR250 front end to his Bultaco but it was not for the forks, he wanted to improve the front brakes and it was easiest to do it that way. Another bloke here fitted and upside-down forks front end (Paoli?)off an early model Beta or late model Fantic fitted to a Bultaco, and that was mainly to make it easy to fit a front disc brake. Both of them looked ridiculous. The one with the Paoli front end got converted back to standard so he could ride in Twinshock class, and the bloke with the TLR front end stopped riding it and went back to riding a modern bike. Meanwhile, thousands of other people have not fitted different forks to their Bultacos, and continue to get great enjoyment from riding them that way. If your forks are still topping out with 200ml of 20 weight oil/leg, then there are a few possible causes: Someone has taken the anti-topping springs out, there is way too much fork spring preload, or the forks have been assembled incorrectly

There is usually more required to get the front brakes working well than fitting new shoes and a new cable

Clutch cable has very little load so is not that critical which one you get as long as it is a lined outer. The Yamaha item works very well. The routing of the clutch cable on that bike is important. I have seen some bizarre variations of clutch cable routing on TY175s. Aim to maximise the radii of curves, minimise the number of curves and consider the effect of the steering moving through its full travel

The best front brake cable available for the TY175 is the genuine Yamaha part

The photo of you on the Scorpa is showing rear suspension that looks pretty well spot-on for sag. In trials, having only a small amount of "bump" travel when you are riding flat ground is irrelevant to how it works in the section, because you should be unweighting before hitting things. I would worry a lot less about static sag with you aboard. I'm about that same weight too and find the standard springs on all the modern bikes I have ridden to function perfectly for me. If the rear is going down too far on the Beta and other bikes with the standard suspension settings, maybe you are not positioning your body correctly. There should be no forces acting on your arms when you are standing up and the bike is at equilibrium

the motor covers have been polished instead of the original black paint finish? using Pirelli tyres? AMAL carby (not Bing)?

If you think the stator winding might have a problem, measure the resistance of the winding with it assembled on the stator plate and with the stator plate on the motor Another thought is to check for high resistance between the stator coil earth at the laminations, and the earth side of the HT coil. Sometimes people paint the frame then refit the motor and HT coil without thinking of them needing to be electrically conducting to the frame (unless there is an earth wire joining the stator to the HT coil)