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I've just put a proper MAR shifter on it the other day. The one in the photo is off some other OSSA. It fits OK but hits on things. The proper MAR one is curved up at the front - photo later
I've taken a photo but am having problems getting it off my phone
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It may help spread the loading to use strips of foam rubber along underneath the seat section where it bears against the frame tubes. I use the foam rubber strip that has self-adhesive along one side and is usually used for sealing doors to doorways. Also use the right thickness of packing under the tank section so that the seat part rests against the frame rails along the whole length
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I used Giles' MAR MK2 decals on my fibreglass tank about 6 years ago. I knew they were made for the alloy tank, but just trimmed them carefully and I think they ended up looking very nice. Thanks for making them Giles.
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could also say "rhymes with tosser"
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both are right - it just depends where you live. Same with Beta, it is also pronounced a few different ways
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The only thing I have found is that trials bikes with disc brakes sometimes overheat the fluid if the downhills go for a long time, or if I push too hard on the flat. Twinshock trials bikes in those sort of rides can be very good too, the bigger the motor the better so there is less gear changing
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Great fun Shawn. That sort of riding on a trials bike is a blast
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The TY175 kickstart lever is forged steel that has been electroplated. It can be welded with a plain steel welding rod or with a stainless steel welding rod.
The hard bit in doing a weld repair on them is to end up with the hole being perfectly round and of the right diameter.
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http://www.mikunioz.com/download.htm and click on VM tuning manual
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Pat those photos in the link from Ourian are of my bike (I am David Lahey)
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Pat I think they are my pegs you are asking about. They are modified Sammy Miller Products footpegs. The modification was to fit a self-retracting pin on the RH peg. If that is what you are wanting I can probably find the photos showing how to do it
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HDPE is rated for continuous 110degrees C and 120 degrees for short periods. Hose fittings are readily available. It is called black poly here and is commonly used for irrigation and mains pressure water plumbing.
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One of the weaknesses of the TY175 kickstart is that the stop is not very well fixed to the shaft. The usual problem this causes is that the kickstart shaft over-rotates when returning, which causes the head of the clamp screw on the kickstart lever spline to punch a hole in the casing.
I've included a photo showing how that stop should look ie square and flush
The other thought I had was that you have not shown what your cover looks like - I'm wondering if you are using one of the YZ125C/X covers which might have a different dimension to the inside of the steel bush for the kickstart shaft. The cover I've shown is a TY175 cover
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Yes please post photos. I have one apart at home I can compare yours to
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It looks like you have tightened the triple clamps up with the top one rotated a bit relative to the bottom one. Back off the clamps for the steering head axle and the clamps for the fork tubes and you should be able to move the fork bottoms so that the wheel axle is parallel to the top triple clamp. I suggest you clamp the bottom fork tube clamps first, then the steering axle clamp and top nut, then the top fork tube clamps in that sequence
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That torque setting is only to stop them from unscrewing. The screws are intended to be bottomed out.
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M49 is about 95kg without the lights
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Those kickstarts may well fit in place, but will hit the footpeg. No problem if you don't mind lifting the peg up to start it.
Your clutch case looks like it has been repaired previously
Not all YZ/MX/IT 125/175 clutch covers will fit
You can always take a scan of your clutch cover gasket and email it to whoever is wanting to sell you a cover to see if the shape is right, or get them to send you a scan of their cover gasket surface.
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make sure you fix the kickstart stop before you try and start it again. They have a design weakness that allows the stop to rotate on the shaft, causing the clamp screw to puncture the casing
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If you just want something to look at, then whichever model you like the look of most. They are all good to ride, and all have good reliability. Replica fuel tanks are not available for all models.
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you can buy felt pads from hardware stores for putting under the legs of furniture
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By the way your sliders/bottles/outers/bottoms are definitely A model because the oil drain screws face outwards. On later model TY250 twinshock forks the drain screws face rearwards
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TY250 - A model I think - with parts spread out along damper rod to show correct assembly
The circlip/snapring that holds the anti-bottoming socket in the fork tube is not shown
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hard to do this just with words. If you say which TY250 you have I might be able to post up an exploded parts diagram or a photo showing what you want to know
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Yes parallel yokes have the fork tubes parallel with the steering stem.
You can change the trail by changing either the angular offset of the fork tubes, the linear offset of the fork tubes (your X distance), the amount of axle offset or even the steering rake angle or any combination of them.
The geometry of the fork tube holes in the standard Bultaco Sherpa T yokes is very good for trials. If you fit late model Alpina yokes, the trail dimension will be increased (heavier steering at standstill).
The most common thing people do to modify Bultaco steering geometry is to steepen the rake angle. This can be done on a Sherpa T by lowering the front of the bike, raising the rear of the bike, or doing a frame chop. Making the rake steeper has the effect of making the steering lighter when the bike is stationary, but loading the steering up more in riding situations when the trail goes negative.
Works racing (MX and Road Racing) bikes have adjustable steering rake angle using eccentric sleeves inside the steering stem. That would be a pretty cool modification that would allow you to experiment with rake angle to see what suited you best
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