copemech

Not sure your year, but you need to inspect closely that the blades are not hitting the plug lead or the shroud if getting the whirley sound. I have seen plug leads worn in half by misplacement!

Ronie(Rlracer) did a test on this, yet I cannot recall the result, think it map 2, with the map one switch un-earthed. Can, Wigster tell a difference? Or yersel?

Thanks again to Splatshop Chris for bringing out the Leonelli graphs for phe programmable ignitions(which could be adapted, yet the standard bike does not come with this, only the dual map. I highly suspect that the actual functions of the standard dual map are closely related to the advance curves illustrated, which also explains my lack of "seat of pants" resopnse. As my '07 did not have the switch, I have not been keen on the idea of retro fitting one. If anythin, I may be more inclined to "ditch the switch" myself. Or just make one them stickers to put on it a non-functional switch that says "EASY" to see if that will help my sorry ass any. Leonelli also states the limits on the trials flywheels at 13,000 rpm, with 14,000 as occasional limit! At 10K, she is singing! Bottom line-----FAIL!!!!!!!! IMHO!

Any good 125 should do you well. Not much they won't do, so don't even worry about bigger at your age, specially!

I may be able to get you something. Which you want? Ryan's basic or advanced? PM me, as I gotta call him.

The factory stickers are available in various style patterns('01-'05) from your Sherco dealers. They don't last forever, but are pretty and rugged for a while.

Sounds about right.

Next question, will the French take a miss and kill Gaddie in the lew?

Now That's friggin funny, Don't care who ya'are, !!!

I seen that, but you gotta these guys are sniffing the glue, not to mention they want more for a pushbike than a motorbike! Seems they are all Hyper-tech, money no object!

Which is forward is it not? Las one I rode i cunna tell the difference. So did the Beaver get a 2.5 or 2.9?

Well good, I will remind you of that next time. I think it good. Don't think we are here to satisfy the rest. You still got thi stick up! I have never strived at being PC, you know darn well you are an infidel!(Target) Not to change the subject, but whot you think about the Japs?

Just use common sense and reduce your ratio a bit, keeps you from having all the excess buildup, but even at 80-90:1 bikes need a good hard run on occasion to keep things swooshed out, not to over do it, but get some heat into it!

I did finally spend to get the V-mar chain guide thing. Nice little piece o-work. Would reccomend! I always like cheap insurance!

A few thoughts on this one. Firstly, I would think the '10 bike to be a bit too new for your average crank seal problem. This issue SEEMS to be related to deterioration of the seals over a period of time due to the alcohol induced fuels. I would estimate an average lifespan of 3 or so years for the standard seals based upon various reports, yet at the same time I say this, it would never hurt just to take a good measure on just how much gearbox oil comes out next change. If you put 450ml in and only got 250ml out, there is an issue. If seal issues are suspected, My current reccomendation is to go with the Viton seals which Chris at Splatshop has well sourced, as compared to the standard Nitrile seals for the sake of longevity, hopefully. Sorry if you are subjected to crap fuel like most of us! Not the fault of the bike! The '99-'00 bikes had a muff similar to a Gasser and should be easier to repack as such. Not sure about the center section, as I have not owned one these. '01 and up, I have never considered these practicle to repack. Only a few hard core hobbiests(with a tig welder in the shed) have done it. Point here being, one is well advised not to let them get all gunked up to begin with. Excess oil just accumulates in the motor and in the exhaust. -1 Don't run more oil than you need, as we run Pro bikes on 80:1, most punters could easily run at 100:1. I have ot yet heard of any bikes of any makes having problems at those ratios. Under normal usage! -2 Even at that rate, one needs to give the bike some stick at times to get some heat into the muff and burn things off via the smoking. The heat of just a couple hard runs through the gears many times gets the stuff moving and spattering out the tailpipe, which is better thanit laying up inside!

Thanks again Splatshop Chris for the good pics! Just seen your mention of the grub as well!

Right then, done! I figured you to be still watching Celine in what appears to be the latex body suit! The videos of her have saved me lots of dosh, as the wifey wanted to go to Vegas to see her. Costs Hundreds for tickets! Jesus help me! I hear Celine is going back after her maternity leave or something, they said Vegas needs the money! Pee on them, so do I!

Gotta admit that one is off the list! Ham needs a Powerfull Woman to put him in his place!

Yes, I doubt he has the clutch back on it from what he said. The actual engagement happens sliding the cogs sideways and may be interrupted depending upon their position. As things rotate a bit, then they can slide to lock in. I just hope he has not gotton things totally out of position here!

That would be the only way Clive would be on one because they cost as much as a new car! He'll probabably like the Beta OK, but it may outlast him!

I think some of the easiest points come out of even the best riders on Brain Farts! Happens to everyone. I think breaking a section into "sections" with a mental point and balance ck between them would be the best advice I have ever had. Head in the game and ride the plan. Seems rushing through even an easy section can often throw you. I think a lot of riders that seem to struggle a bit could just take a few days to ride for fun, drop back a line of difficulty to an easy line and just have fun riding just tosee if they can actually maintain mentally long enough to have a "Clean" day out as a non'comp entry. I have tried this and find it very difficult to say the least! I have had only one clean day in the last ten years and have never been able to duplicate it! If you can, then fine, move on. Just a trial!

Well, you said it, not me. Seems to me these things take some effort to move. My experience with the early ones was it seemed the V-mar rear linkage things seemed to liven up the rear a bit. But being a bit heavier bike, good teknique becomes more critical with a good compression of the rear and followed by a hard push down and forward on the front. Takes some energy!

One may have to rotate the input or output shafts a bit in order for things to line up and move properly when shifting(rotating the drum to make things slide)

Careful, I think that year has a little grub screw in the rear spring adjuster ring and if you do not loosten it off it will mangle the threads trying to turn it. The 20mm sag thing is just a rough guide. You can lift up on the muff or mudguard slightly to get a feel for this. it should just float a little. The springs are made for a medium weight rider, but say for aheavy lad I would still not wind the spring up past the point that static sag is reduced to near nothing, as too much is not good. Have seena lot of bikes where noone ever ajdusted the things and the rear sagged soo much the bike would not hardly stand on the kickstand without falling over on level ground.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YaItPjWo7Ks