copemech

Just thinking about the process on this. Would suppose I would need to download the program, create a bootable disc, then hopefully there are wipe/format and install options? How does that process go?

Urm, I think if you are bound to try the 44 rear you will likely need a half link kit om the chain to extend it. These are(or were) available for the stock Regina chains. As far as the carb goes, I figure on a 33 pilot you are still going to be in the 3-3.5 out range on the mix screw. This "hunt" position thing has more to do with how it settles back to a normal idle after revved than anything. Slow to come down means too lean and back it out a bit more. Other method would be a quick wick of the throttle off idle to ck for momentary bog. Too much bog and you have gone in too far and need to back the fuel screw out to richen things a bit with more fuel off idle. Seems Baldilocks is on well with the 36 pilot at 2.5 turns out, yet things vary bike to bike and you must be the judge.

Well?

Ok Sam, thoughts here being: Are you getting cheap aftermarket seals? Are they beind distorted in some way on install? Do they seem to fit the tube tight as they should? Are the tubes "really" smooth?

Had yer throttle foot lock up, did yas?

Tim, that thing still running? I just got the old P4 XP machine out the wifeys domain. May load it up and try in the shed just for S&G if it is not too consuming! What browser? Or does it come loaded?

Providing he just rebuilt this rattlecan , this could be his first taste of what real compression really is in these things! Thay are tight! Yet, barring excess oil, whish should be mostly expelled when kicking over without plug, and the plug not being too long causing mechanical interferance, the lever should push through the compression stroke with slow constant pressure untill top center is found, then a good leg on it should get things spinning through. And no, we never fix anything oner the internet, just get the ones at the other end pointed in the right direction so they can manage, hopefully!

Chewy, not supposed to use stock reed stops with these as may interfere with first stage opening properly!

Jeez, at least the goop is moving and flowing. Hopefully you can flush it good wiht some solvent like paint thinner(mineral spirits)then air dry.

Actually it is a bit opposite, as with cooler high air density days one actually needs a bit more fuel to go with the denser air. It sounds to me you are getting in the happy range with the 36, as i figure it working good at the 2.5 out setting. You seem the only gunie pig I have over there to try this as I have preached thus far in finding. Nothing says you must retain the setting prior to your final prep. But I want to see if things change at 38 and down to two(2) turns or so, mine was at 1.5, as this still effects the transition circuit at 1/16-1/8 throttle and if it gets too lumpy there you will know, if not, then you will be good and likely find as good a transition as I did, which may be optimum on what the Dell can actually do. Seems many have not ventured even as far as you thus far in getting these things in a really good working range. Nothing I can simulate here on our fuel and conditions so rely on your input for others in pushing the optimums here.

Finding reverse logic here! Please explain!

Heat does have its effect on power as air density changes. Seems everything really runs better on cool and moist days! I doubt you would consider our 100F days warm! We were only at 90F over the week, yet it did coola bit today.

Most dealers would probably give away theri collection of #30 pilots!

Baldilocks, try the 38 pilot and getting the screw in an even better working range down near two turns. I had goodluck with this, yet does make them more sensitive on the day, Err towards the lean side for more smooth operation. Chewy, you are just getting out of the playing field here!!!! You have been told the basics, yet do not listen, or try things then you want to re design the exhoust! Get a grip man! Rule 1- Throttle= easy peasy! Rule 1.5- Be sure your jetting is in a working range= Cheap, easy! Rule 2- Timing= Cheap, easy , changable! Rule 3- Reeds= Cheap, easy , changable! Rule 4- Base gaskets= Moderatly labor intensive, parts cost as much as reeds probably, same to reverse. Rule 5- Carbs= Not reccommended to to complexity of setup, bigger or smaller, unless you are willing to put up with the twitchey animals. They are only a slight bit smoother than a well set reliable Dellorto. Having ridden a few 250 Betas over the years, in my mind they are just more a torque set motor and mostly flat as a pancake. I have doubts one would ever get the same out of a Sherco, as they seem more perky in the mid and top range, on average, and thus in the transitions. There is a LONG header pipe for the Sherco from '05, as far as I know they still fit, but that would need to be verified. They cost more than an OKO! Yet cheaper than TI!

That number being three, as I was told by reputable source, that works there.

I always like Kansas in the springtime, refreshing! Makes good travel music! Bunch of old f-sticks!

Then throw this guy into the same venue! Gotta admit I still got Rundgren vinyl! It was good mood music back then and still is. Seems Todd's voice is not what it was, but niether is mine! I am kinda glad I found this!

Another good one

Good stuff! Found this, Monte and Daryl doing something newer and different, it is good!

Uh, well lets see, hopefully tour lad is worth his salt, so with the guide things are fairly self explanitory. Parts list from Splatshop: Flywheel puller Cyl base gasket(pull cyl with head attached) Clutch side cover gasket(don't bother with the small round cover) Center engine gasket Intake gasket 2 bearings(new style) 2 main seals(specify Viton if possible) Coolant Oil Hopefully I hav not forgot anything. Optional(depending upon budjet)for a really good freshen! New piston rings(and /or piston as well, depending upon condition) New water pump seals(and shaft if it is badly grooved) Pump cover seal(if removed with above) You can probably get all new engine screws and cyl base nuts for a tenner, this makes things look new throughout! If your lad has air tools, then be sure to properly scribe the three main engine nuts on either end of crank and clutch hub for bringing back to torque properly(or slightly beyond marks). Careful with the clutch hub nut. There is a separate guide on the pump seal replacement. Ck the pinned topic listed above the threads for a full list. Remember, if you do not read, and skip steps, you will pay double in the long run. Have fun,

Jay, you can pack the underside of the rubber boots with silecone grease to help keep crap out. I do this particularly on the rear brake mc.

Zipper, ck your zipper!

You are very welcome, thanks for the feedback! Lessons learned, as I have been snake bit too many times!

Back when, at the end of the night, would just throw on some vinyl and go to bed, let it run all night! Floyd was a good one for this!

And if you need a bit more time, this one will keep things going! Friggin awesome rendition if you ask me! Never seen one like it! Jeez, the tone he gets out of the accoustic! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q8_6aa-TTvI&feature=related