copemech

John, was that the old milk shed and the slush pit he just went through?

Yea, I think you need to send your's off for a bull's ass! Yet, getting back to basics here, you need to give the same stick to the bike for the life of the spark plug! These too can easily be oil and fuel fouled and you need to burn that stuff off! Oil just lays up in the motor and exhaust at low revs! One needs some heat in the motor first, then a good full rev under load to clean things out and get it hot enough to burn off. This stuff really needs to happen every ride. A good run through a field through the gears at a decent clip just to build some heat, then possibly a couple "drag" race runs revving out high through the gears. I gotta tell you I am no "eco" freak, but history suggests that even in the case of running 80:1 a normal punter can have a lot of excess oil flowing about. Question here being, if we can run pro bikes at 80:1, just how much do YOU need? Aside from road trials, probably not that much! Common sense and good practice should prevail here. But you gotta be your own judge, and use common sense.

Makes me wonder if that rule will be another thing basically ignored by experienced observers in many cases, or used as a club by biased observers?

Vicarage? Is that neae MK?

Schmuck: I stand corrected, although I should have stated "Womens Saturday Event " for the womens championship. Hot Race! Hot Girls! Friggin good riders!You seen what they can do to the boys! On the markers thing, point of judjment here as been the point of dislodged or requireing reset or re-marking. In my mind, a "toutch" of a paper card for 5 seems rather harsh, and beyond the intent of the rule and good sportsmanship. And could just as easily be contested.

Yes, but at the same time of doing the carby, defects here should be fairly obvious, even though the manifolds seem fairly rugged and durable. Problem with all this is, based upon a number of reports, I am giving 2-3 years life expectancy on the standard crank seals when running the alcohol induced fuels. Being a '09 bike, I would not rule it out, yet would not go there quite yet! Hopefully he can get a "proper" cleaning done. There are other recent refs to this procedure. We need to get Neo to produce a training video using his spare carbs! Not like I don't have two sitting in front of me! Ha!

That is good that it is flowing on it's own. Seems good oils do that, with less hard carbon build up and residue. But this is also why one needs to give um stick at times to blow that stuff out before accumulating too much.

If you are indeed sure slide and cable are ok, then I believe the first thing would be to clean the carb well, specifically the pilot jet and circuit, as this will cause slow return and floaty idle. If you break the carb over a clear glass or olastic container, you might be surprised what comes out the bowl. Let us know how you get on before worrying about other potential problems.

Wonder why there is not a full list of results posted up on this series? Seen a couple individual reports by Jack and Becky, but nothing more on here. Noticed in Becky's report a mention of a new rule where even touching a marker gets you a fiver? What kinda thing is that?

You don't have dust, do you????????????? Not!!!!!!

Visit 1967! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OKrv3wffcUw&feature=related

Couple lads kicking this up on the Farcebk , need a bit of fresh metal, and suits the upcoming trial!

62.5ml is your number for 5L of fuel

Perhaps one could use the rawl bolt method to have something to knock them out.

Never had them bad, why do you assume that? Seems logical.

Basically, YES! Yet I still have doubts yours is that bad just because it got hot. The bad ones I have heard were on really older bikes, and things sound like an old '70's Yam MX'er with the mini silencer on it. Even though the process of re- packing HAS been done, it was primarily by a few hardcore folk that just took it as an experiment. You gotta have a good TIG welder. Then you gotta BE a good TIG welder to weld that thin ali(or pay one, not cheap). And even though I happen to have the stuff to do it, I do not think I would do it on my own as it is too much work, not to mention it would probably come out looking like a bull's ass sewn up with a loggers chain. I do have an old muff for welding practice, if I ever do it, yet it is too labor intensive for even that, really. And lastly, one should not replace them unless neccessary, cause you will likely bash the new one on the rocks if you do! Murphey's law!

I don't think I will take the time to look for it!

I would still think it would be ok. Just run it. Ones that are totally blown out will have a very raspy exhaust note. They are totally impracticle to re-pack. Not reccomendable.

Shercogeezer , tell us what you found!

First thing most likely is same as in the "re pack " thread with excess oil accmulation and a hard run lighting it off. Second being timing set "too " slow for the bike and a lot of unburned fuel going downstream giving same result.

Yea, but problem here is it was likely not ridden hard prior to that, so you got a lot of old grunge laying in there which you just lit off, and even a 80:1 ratio can accumuluate excess when putting about. Our pro's run 80:1 and sufficient. You may have a lot of accumulatin in motor and muff if putting about in a small area. I try to do a good hard run, yet brief, every time out, just to keep things flowing. This helps prevent the "lighting off' and eecess heat build up associated with it. Long story short, you should be ok for a bit, but still need to give it some stick to get heat in the muff. If you are pputting primarily, you may consider going to 100:1, yet this may limit your hard running times or road work. Helps in preventing excess accumulations.

I seem to recall the shaft is about 8mm dia. One may polish out light grooving,but you probably want to keep things within a couple-three thousandths inch of original diameter for proper seal tension. Need hard metal for the seal surface, not brass. Making a precision sleve here is beyond my machine shop capacity, and takes precision work. I have an idea one might start with a piece of decent hard 3/16 id stainless pipe sold at hobby stores and hardware. The 5/16 od is near identicle to 8mm on the shaft.

Not relly, if you came to live in north america,would you expect to learn the language or have others cater to your needs? I think that is rediculous. Seems to me most were born here. They got Frenchies down here too in LA, but they learn, bit different dialect though. Same way here though, as the imported mexicans cannot bother to learn the language and expect accommodation, so every goddam thing is printed in spanish on one side, so one cannot read it! Total BS! Next thing, you lads will have to print everythinng in arabic, or blackaneeze, or whatever you call it! Feck that!

Girls went to Italy, wheres the results?

I know that is a somewhat plagirized and modified response, yet still very relavent, specially at the tail end. The list should be updated! Yet still relavent. I think we all know we are not talking about a damn luxery car here, but a somewhat mass produced rock beater of euro origin. One must pick his own poison here. Most seem a love /hate relationship with any of the lot.