copemech

Your bars should always be verticle or forrard of that, levers level os slightly down so you can reach them in the downhill, as YOU need to be alll the way back with straight arms, and butt as far back on rear mudguarg as you can get! Braking is 90%front, use engine braking on rear as much as possible, as the rear is light and even a toutsh of brake will stop the wheel, then you jus slide without a rudder! Stop at top, control speed and do not let momentum build if you can prevent it. Mind, you gotts release front over slippry roots, as the things will put you on your head if the front goes sideways!

From what I can tell of the pics, it looks as though you may have more of a corrosion problem than a weld problem. Magnesium is highly corrosive and must be well protected. Simple painting don't always work, one needs a clean base(glass bead after welding if necc) and a corrosion inhibitive primer such as zinc chromate or epoxy that is non porus and seals the metal from oxidation and moisture and gives proper adhesion of the paint.. as just paint don't stick well , either.

Very nice, Ones!

Best I can tell, they are Paioli! Cross them to Gasgas, Sherco Scorpa and whatever, but don't know others. As they are just basically wipers, unless totally trash, reuse them and put on some booties over them, much more effective in the first place!

I have heard roumour that these forks have been developed similar to the(MONTESA) Showa design of internals. If they come out on this bike, I would imagine that true, yet no idea otherwise.

Jeez man, WTC and Natinals aside, do you really want to be THAT regulated? Feck that! pPart of the fun of running club trials is breaking up the monotany and riding for fun. Not everything has to be for a championship or series! I can put two sticks in the ground and say everyone needs to arrive here at the end, and everyone will ride it at their own expense, have fun trying it in their own way, take a few points and go home wondering what they did wrong. I love flags on one side, the other, well are you dumb or what, one will do! Sticks are at the end!

Yea, welcome to the world of a lot of us older gits that just wanta have some fun. Find a sweet little bike and go ride a bit, as the trials is about keeping a low score, you can drive yersel nuts, and still be safe.

I rode the 125 Scorpa when it first arrived here. A local dealer had one for a demo bike. I was less than impressed, as it seemed top heavy and gutless. One of our top national riders happened to be there that weekend. After the trial, he took the bike out for a spin about the sections and I followed him round... Best I recall, he wrung the living crap out the little bike, without mercy,,,, and cleaned EVERY EXPERT line on the course for the day!!! Gave me a bit of a different perspective on what the little bike will do!

Charlie makes a good point, and a lot of 2.9's have been settled a bit over the years, as well as 2.5,s for that matter. 249cc or whatever VS 272cc is is basically 10% more, and it seems to end up on the GRUNT end of things, which can make the bigger power seem a bit overwhelming at times for a novice/amature rider. Buying upon condition, I still would go for the cleanest bike and best maintained, reguardless of displacement, which is why I still have a 2.9, add the 250's are scarce here. I just make the bigger bike run like the smaller bike, basically.

I have never seen a Sherco gearbox break. One could bend a shift shaft, or break a return spring, but? Still easy enough.

Anyone else? Dabster?

And!

I think they look really sweet now!

Well good, I can love you like a brother, again! XOXOXO! And all that! If there is an issue there, Andy will need to fix it. In the meantime, If you send me the pics I will get them up. I thin I seen them in the T&E News, recalling the back looked better than the front, but? I want one, but shall reserve order untill I get a nod from one of our robust moderators in Scotland in XXL. If he likes, I shall get two, will let you know. Andy may trade you if nothing else! Possibly someone will pick up on this thread as well.

Does seem odd, too much redundancy there. I have bought small collections in the past to add , and my box is fairly well stocked. But this is something along the lines of taking the content of 4-5 of my guys that are true pro's and stuffing it all into my box. And in a mixed state where you cannot find what you need when you need it in some cases. Somewhat unprofessional it seems.

That was not a bad bike, yet a few things come to mind here. Firstly, that year seemed to have issues with leaking seals on the rear shocker. Secondly, depending upon rider, they may develop cracks in the frame just above the radiator opening. Many frames were replaced under warranty, so a non issue for most at that point. Thirdly, I just never reccomend a 2.9 as a starter bike for punters. It is a fairly aggressive bike, and may require a bit of settling. I think the 250's are more docile overall and possibly better suited, depending upon just how aggressive the rider is .

On second thought, send me the pic and I will post it up, as I am a team player, and you are a tightwad!!!! Send to me @verizon.net.

Send me a shirt and I'll pay for your TC Supporters membership so you can upload Pics directly to here rather than hosting them somewhere else, dead beat!

That is an orig pic from near new. The dell's do seem to oxidise over time, as that carb looks badly now. Although I am on the OKO for well over a year now, the dell has set for some time. The Kiehin's and OKO do seem to hold their finish a bit better than the Dell due to the casting finish. It is somewhat easy to clean up to new standard in the glass bead cabinet, yet takes some work as that crap gets into everything!

Personally, I would try the #40 test first, as it is cheap. Also insure the transition circuit in the carb is not restricted. There are two small holes in the carb circuits, the main idle circuit in the engine side of the bore, and another just behind the slide which is the transition circuit in the range we are talking about. Both feed off the primary jet, yet only the first is metered by the fuel screw. If the second passage has blockage, or the jet is insufficient to support the transition, it will be lean and ping. In reverse, if the primary jet is too rich, it will blubber in the range, as the jet is the determiner, not the screw or needle. I would have never thought it, but going from the 36 to 38 fixed mine, so just goes to show. This crap drove me crazy untill I figured it out. Add, they all vary a bit. Yes I gotta run the fuel screw in just a bit at between 1.5 and 2 turns out, so in a more selective range on the day. A kiehin is a good carb ,but finiky as well and also more power accross the range typically.

You are one to talk!

Something like this: Clickey Here! When looped this way, it cannot shift or move near the muff, allows one to lift rear of tank prior to removal of hose from petcock. I think the length is 6 inches as I recall.

I still think one needs a direct comparison to see where it is at in the scheme of things.

What you get for what you got!

This is a delorto PHBL carb bike, right? I'm no Mont expert, but I never got rid of that on the Sherco till I went to a #38 pilot jet. What jet do you have now? Others may have other idears, but?