copemech

I have run a light clutch on my 2.9 for couple years now. It works pretty well for amature use. If you just pull 2 springs(33%lighter) you will likely encounter a bit odd progression and slippage when engaging higher gears. Thus the need to go to a thinner gear oil like ATF, similar to some other makes such as Beta or GG. The Dan Williams clutch mods as pinned in the Beta threads also help. To add to that, I also put a small needlefile diagonal cut into each pad on every friction disc. I run a high quality synthetic ATF such as Mercedes or Royal Purple, have not tried plain Dextron, yet should still work fine. Member(Chewy) in the UK matched up some lighter springs for his bike, but the(engineering) numbers I ran on them basically gave same effect. You might inquire to him, as he has been running them. I still get decent feel and progression, and can achieve "full pop" when needed, out of my setup, so sticking with it for now. Just a lighter trigger! ps-Plates never stick after sitting, either! At least thus far, but never trust them!

Doubt you will get away from rusty spoke nipples on much anything at that age. If you know what dealer sold it, you might inquire about its history, as there are not a lot of 250's around. Most are 2.9's. I think it would need to be truly V good to EX to bring the asking price.

I think you want to use reasonable care on this to let things heal and not overdoo anything. Do your minor stretches and such, but let the inflamation subside. Seems if one goes too long, as in a sling for weeks, the damn thinge will lock up on you! I have never found reason not to ride a bit unless it is too painful. As a relative newby to trials, you can always practice using good style by steering with the feet and no weight on hands and arms while staying centered.

Hot!

Have a fag!

Obviously we now know the ones who are on top of these matters!

That is good to hear! Fact is , many times you may never actually see the culprit! Good job then, now giv'er another just to be sure!

Jeez man you are hard core to get into that! Unfortunatly it does rather sound as if the actual engagement lugs on the gears sides are worn where they slide together and cam out under light load. Not that I know beans about that animal!

Seems I recall they switched about on the carbs in that timeframe, which brought my initial question of the type, yet I have not owned a PHBH, and recall they had a separate air circuit(thus filter) and fuel circuit. Yet still similar overall to the PHBL, and same basic principals apply, as you gotta get some fuel up from the primary circuit which should exit the small hole in the carb bore on the engine side and probably also a transition hole just behind the slide. No idea about screw settings on these, possibly others may chime in, but a couple things to keep in mind, the pilot jet is soo small it can fool you with a bit of clear sand chrystal when looking through, and you need to remove the screws and find airflow(or cleaner) through the passages blowing from inside back. I suppose bike could be sucking air in elsewhere, or even crank seals, as it would not be the first ones ruined with the alcohol laced fuel! Might just ck after to see if you got a vacume on your crankcase vent tube or remove mag cover and spray a bit of cleaner in there to see if there is a noticable change.

No matches found!

Need a fresh one, mate! Depending upon the year bike, you may get a rotor that does not squeal soo much!

What carb is it? Can you find a fine wire to pass through the pilot jet?

I am kinda like MexMex and agree. Shoulders are a real bitch, though. Very complex joint as well. I think my big problem right now is I have some bone spurrs in the right shoulder, so if i overdoo things, it gets really inflamed. Feels rough too! Yet I will live with it for as long as possible.

Looks good to try! Just got to see if it holds up! There is a lot of science behind bearings and bushes, perhaps this plastic will work, or you could go to bronze. Seeing the sherco go to a plain(steel) type bearing was of interist. Friction, sticksion, loading and wear along with corrosion all come into play here. I really wish we had more bearing engineers chime in on this!

You should have fun and learn a few things! Go slow! Start at Novice in any events! It is a bit like golf! Can embarrass you fully!

This does bring up a few spectacular possibilities! My initial thoughts are always random, but I am picturing Lane, firegel, you, and kevlar underwear! Lots of smoke and FIRE! This could get REALLY good!

Oh , BTW, the design lifespan on the weed wacker is 300 hours at WOT! That does not sound like much untill one does the math. For me I think it came to about 15 years of use!

As an example, I finally broke down and got mesel a expensive ECHO weed wacker! It is pretty sweet, and comes with a till of oil to mix at 50:1. Now, i presume it is a decent semi-synth at least, not sure if full synth as it has no markings to that effeec. Point being, this little fine piece of lawn equipment will run WIDE OPEN at that mix for endless hours if need be! Mind this is an aircooled motor. Old school mix for 2T would be somewhere from 32;1 to 40:1 for that type application. In the trials world, motors are seldome run wide open for long periods of time, and excess oil accumulates in the motor and exhaust, even at an 80:1 ratio which we mostly use even on the pro bikes under standard conditions. I could easily run at a 90 or 100 ratio, keeping in mind no hard road running. Leaner, cleaner , and easier in the pocket!

I have don that, you know! I usually set on both wheels, stareing at the step for quite some time, then leave!

I'll give you another up, matey! You still think all that smoke came from the sparkey and altered the timing? You ars smoking crack! Sparkies do not produce smoke themselves! Smoke comes from oil, or coolant, blue vs white! As you are in a gimply way, you can re run the experiment if you like, do report! I'll give you another piece! Don't let the fecking docs hack upon you without good reason untill yu have given things a chance to heal naturally, may take months! But may beat the alternative! Cheers and best to you!

Actually, I have stayed out of this mele for good reason. If it is indeed fixed now, your muff was simply bong full of excess oil accumulation, which will indeed light off with a bit of hard running. One does need to limit these sessions a bit so as not to have a meltdown! Your plug thing was co-incidental, as if the thing were not on good enough, the thing would cut out totally under high engine loads, as there is not enough electrical energy to support ignition, however poor at this loading. As long as the bike is not overly raspy in tone, it has not blown out or melted the packings, so fine. You can stay on the 62.5ml per 5L diet, as long as you do blow it out uopn occasion for normal trials use. More extreme running will require more oil in the motor for road use and such of constant velocity. Less hard running, as in conmstant putting about, and you can reduce the mix even further so excell accumulation in the exhaust is less likely, yet occasional blowouts are still reccomended to keep things flowing! Gotta get some heat init!

Welcome! Todays news: Too hot!

Yes, that is what I hear, yet one still gets into issues with their personnal fuel containers, the alcohol settlement and such, proper storage. The handling of fuel AFTER it is delivered to you is just as important as prior! Clean, Drain and inspect your jugs! Take a last bit sample in a clear container just so see what settles out! Dust, dirt, mud and rain can do your stuff in! Fuel handling is critical after the sale!

Humm, I figure it to start with the letter "P"!!!!

They always do , and have, non issue.! Personally, and from a fundamental(Russian) approach, I would still take a good working carb for sake of dependability in the field, and field strip and clean. What do I know? I have dealt with these systems on cars since their inception. Obviously Ossa has made it work on a 2T bike, yet time will tell! Biggeast thing on any of them is fuel quality and a whole lot of poor dirty(water) fuel ruining filters, pumps and injectors and such, you gotts keep all that in mind. Can become very costly!