copemech

Unfortunatly, a change in timing cannot get more air into the motor! You can compress the ambient air a bit more to add a bit of power if you use good fuel. Advanceing ignition in an effort to draw out full power of the fuel should be done 1 mm at a time on the plate, untill you cannot stand the stalling and kickback. Watch the high temp runs as more heat is retained in the motor.

It is all relative, I took a pass on a cherry 4RT recently at $3500. Ant the 2t did not cost as much new. One can either take a sale or wait till someone somewhere if you can find them wants it. And you may be waiting a while! Then you either gotta ship it or collect it!

Allways go OVER, cause you can't cut the toes off. Bettter to put in a cushion pad(always) and double up on the sockies if needed than the other way round! Comfy feet!

Jeez dude, you may need some professional help if that thing don't run! There are a few good fellows around up there in MI that you may be able to hook up with closeby.

Beauty is allways in the eye of the beholder. That year is a nice bike(last 2T), and seems not too many around because they were not really all that popular. I am thinking +- 2500.00 depending upon condition, has it been stored well? How bad do you want tit? You can buy a newer lighter bike for the same range of money once beyond that. If you just love it and want it, pay the price and get what you want! Is IS a sweet bike!

Yea, well , they don't listen! Try a 26 OKO! Or even a 24!

Yea, no way I am messing about with any that, specially out in the field ! I would likely come closer to using a good zip tie as compared to any that rubbish. Put a proper screw clamp on later. Junk!

This is a 1/4 turn DZUS fastner, is it not? If it will not catch the wire properly, it could be bent.

The base settings should be around 45/125 on the jets, JJH needle middle groove, airscrew 0.5-1.5 turns out. All may vary a bit depending.

Just the thought of this makes me want to do something totally illegal on this forum! I shall put out a blatant advert for mysel to promote mysel! I will fix your bike for free!(plus parts and labor)!!!!!!!!! Any rider in the UK shall get FREE service! All you gotta do is pay for shipping back and fourth! ANY bike less than ten years old, send it in and I will examine it for free, reguardless of problem! All you pay for is the parts and repair labor and add return post! To go further, if your junk ain't worthfixin, I will doddle it to the scrapman and send you the pittance(less fee)that it brings! (Paypal fees may apply) Send your junk and I will make you the proud owner of a re-built POS once again! Feckn-A!

Yea, those things have been round for some time. Not normally used in cooling systems application due to heat limits.

As I do (or have) occasionally rubbed shoulders with a few folk within the Sherco organization, I did pose a simple question to one "high up the chain". What do you think about the new forks and rear suspension changes on the '12 bike? Response-- "It is like a NEW bike!" I actually find this very positive and exciting! And I say all this without reservation of the source. No BS here! To be honest, I have been considering the Sherco/Scorpa, I still think a fine bike, yet now again I may be back to the Sherco!!! I am sure we will have more reports soon on the new ones!

I do agree with the last bit! Pity no bike makere in the UK, so got to go with the factory team. Guess one could get on with Greeves?

Not bad! Had a really good one like that a few years back, feckin thin turned weird deep colors for a month!

Yes, you are dreaming! You cannot have your cake and eat it, too! Closest thing you might find would be a Scorpa Long Ride, which is a fine bike for the task, and I doubt the seating position much worse than an old Yam or Bultaco. What they make up for in brakes, suspension, weight and handling is well worth the price over an old slug!

Hummm, thanks for the report! Does make you wonder? Seems the re built ones from WCW have been a bit iffy? Where as Steve has been spot on in most cases, although as with anything I am sure he is not perfect as things go.

Oh yes, I know exactly what you are referring to, however the clamps on my '07 had nothing on one side to pull against to latch them. Is was as though they were latched, then crimped tight on the one side, with nothing on the other to grab after the fact either to relieve or re clamp them! Slit can them! And NO, Wayne, I could care less about a couple grams when the bike weighs less than me! Doubt you will find much titanium on mine either, as stainless works well, as as such, form follows function !

Seems you gotta pry them apart. I never had any luck saving or reusing them. A standard 22mm dia. screw type clamp works well as a replacement.

I think that relationship changes a lot as the bike gets more verticle and the tank is on the low end of things!

I think there has allways been a lot of debate here. I do recall seeing the drilling or V-groove reccos in the past for SSDT setup from some. All yet, the basic fact remains, whatever might get IN needs a way OUT! Even if you think you have one perfectly sealed, one cannot ignore it, or corrosion will develop, which is probably more damaging than any direct water threat to the coils and such on the ignition, as they are sealed. Having a bottom drain not only allows stuff out as direct dirt and water, but still allows moisture to evaporate with heat and things dry out. Having a top vent only still traps water and dirt in the bottom and may eventually evaporate the trapped water and leave the dirt! Do the basic experiment. Drill a 3mm hole in the top of a pop bottle, turn it over and submerge it to see what comes in and out! Not much, but at least it has a way out! Try as you like to achieve a perfect seal, yet I think it a mute point as compared to a positive drain and vent. Pick your poison here and be your own judge. Whichever you choose is all good, just watch it a bit. An occasional inspection and application of water repellant will not hurt in any case!

And the option for You to Leave here! And stay gone!

Seen some them trailers where the bike basically sits on the skidplate. Shaking must be horrid! As Ormplus says, even a 50p c-clamp will work. If your ck valves and needle have gunk in them, they need a cleaning.!

2-3mm

I recon after turning yoursel into a lobster, you would not be able to ride!