copemech

This should work, set back 3-4mm from std. Std tic mark on stator aligns with right edge of casting,

Not sure which bike, but I think one can intentionally amplify the need and use of the clutch usage and slippage by even starting off in higher gears, then even doing the turns in second or third, while at the same vehicle speed, slipping all along and applying the power slowly, then go to a bit of the same with a little downgrad and upgrade while maintaining speed and control. Clutch is the BIG bailout tool as well, just pull and you will stop! Brakes do help though! I suppose that is another drill!

This is true, there is a lot of good bikes out there as well. I allways just kinda ride wha I brung!, so it is what it is! You kinda gotta get out a bit me thinks, and ride a few, (as do I) yet it may be just a bit before I can pin down a nice new 250, as they are scarce about here! I liked the '10, so maybe, just maybe? NEED DOSH!

Jeez Mitch, you been out in the heat too long today or what! Variety is the spice of life, and if you got out of KS a bit more, you might find that. I doubt you would do well in the UK, as they are all over the board depending upon the club as well. You guys may be consistant with your application of rules and guidelines, ans maybe ALL hardcore in your club(which seems true), yet others, and once again depending upon the event, may want to do something different. I have found a lot of variences while kicking around, and it is all good. I may decide to use sticks on the day, with a non-stop rules! Possibly a modified gate trial where you can go as you like? Possibly pie plates or flags with direction and a stop-n-hop? Possibly compress the odd classes into just three lines of difficulty on the day, or even two! Mind you, we are noy talking about regional or national series here, just club events that vary and add to a varied environment whereever you may go, thea break the mold for some and add both difficulty and interist for others. You gotta take it all in stride. As far as classes go, no they are sometimes a bit odd in the names, yet the end result s seem similar. Personally, I think we have too many in some cases, and a few sandbaggers as well.

Uhm, I see! Well, if the nut will not back off and re-start squarely on the threads, then the only thing I can think of is to find some sort fixture to compress the spring. Hopefully the threads are undamaged. I do not own spring compressors of the small size, but I have ideas about fixtures to do it, I am sure you have the general concept, but be careful with it as with that much preload, those springs can bite you!

Craig, does AMA support anyone, or just take the money for insurance?

Why is it, Ish, i get the feeling you are not the first to give him the #1 sign?

Joe, I had one do that, yet cannot recall the year bike. There was something about the gear that cams in as you kick it not returning fully due to loose on the shaft or something. Ryan sent me a new gear(and cover gasket) and it was fine. Had something to do with the tolerances , but could not see it. I would email Ryan at RYPUSA.com for more info and hope he recalls this issue. I think mine would actually change tone if you rocked the bike left to right as well, as it would move slightly, just as putting return pressure helps.

Wound off? What does mean? Either the ring has backed all the way off, in which case you should be able to remove the shock and compress the spring slightly to get the nut started back on the threads. Or overwound the not plum off the threads, which may now be cocked and so you cannot re start the nut to back it off? Which btw, I have never seen done.

Perhaps I am simply just too old school fundamentalist, yet once again , the FI thing is just another something to screw up, to me. Granted, it seems the Ossr is running well, along with the Monts(of course), yet we do have the ability to tune carbs to our liking as well. Everything here in the engine department is one side of the coin anyway. As in trials, true control influenced by clutch and gear application for finding traction, as by anything the throttle side is doing at the time.(one does need to heed this fact) I like the new ones, and will hold confidence that suspension does indeed have improvements, and even though as stated, I do not neccessarily like the white on things, a rattle can can fix that for the most!

Completely understand, yet as these things go, other than basics mentioned, we have no true way of functional testing of these components in the field, other than component swapping and isolation of the faulty part via that method.

Yea, not quite sure when I might get a ride, but depending upon just how things go, the long term testing of the '07 may revolve into another bike. I kinda set the initial objective at 5 yr period, but to be honest, friggin thing I have now is sweet! Add, little use the last couple years. Time will tell.

How's things matey!

Practice, ride easy and get comfortable. There is no pressure learning in trials, enjoy!

Bugger you on the Mont, Cheers!

I am sure there should be something local for you, others will need to chime in here, but point being, you can find some good days out on the trials bikes, both in a trial or not!

Welcome!

Jamie, just a question. The pipeline area just outside Ft Will, where do the pipes come from? From ariel view, they seem to disappear into the hillside? I suppose this is water, as seen a few leaky joints spewing in some clips.

Good ones, Gav!

I have run a Rogue for years for standard trials. Plenty of water when it is hot(lots), tool storags is limited, but I never bother to take it off in the sections. When packing for true LDT, I think the Mule is just marginal as well, and would possibly shed it before sections, depending. I have a regular (no name) backpack for setting trials or loading up with junk for a big outing or minding. I too have enjoyed the spinal protection of the waterbag and padding!

As this bike is not old, I still have reservations about the stator. Chewy did report a failed coil pack on his, yet seems rare, but If you have no close friends to swap parts off a similar year bike, then contact someone like Splatshop Chris to sent you off a package of bits to isolate the problem. He will only charge for what you use. You may ohm things out, as stated, but prooblem is we have no way of functionally testing erratic hall effect units on the stator on a dead bike!

I don'd disagree, but that little gasser does look sweet! And if that is the fellow I think it is , he knows his stuff! Is it near you? Good to have friends nearby! Oh, and do not fret, it will pull you just fine! And then some!

Hehe, yea, sush as my right one! You gotta let the muscle heal, as the ligament is stretched! Hurts like hell dunnit! And you must totally give up that odd feeling in the gut whilst climbing ropes!, as it'l just rip it out again!

As I do not have a 2010 on hand to ck, last I seen the yellow wire feeds power to fan and lights. I would disconnect kill button and inspect earthe on cdi unit/ coil, install new sparkey. After basic cks. you may be down to cdi,coil or stator plate! GOt any friends?

The bigger bikes will not tolerate this as well as the 1.25. Comes down to the much greater torque supplied!