copemech

Not sure I would directly relate any of this to the oil viscosity, however when passing through neutral, you kinda need to find a bit of positive second click to insure proper engagement. Usually best done while rolling a bit, and if unsure, go back to neutral and then get the positive click for change. If done passively, one could get a false enguagment.

Yea, man! I gotta PM you this one for Julie!!! Friggin HUGE!!! Well, except for the middle :(

Oh god. Wish I ad a tape of this conversation Obviously You are yet to find yoursel a proper tyre fitter. You gotta go to the experienced trials guys for this knowledge, and still yet, when things go off, they just tell you that's the way it is!

As my puter in shed took a dump, I drug out the waptop, seldome used. Found stupid crap which I should not admit, but after the fact it is rather funny! This is what happens when set in a room after a trial, far from home, and the interweb does not function there, so no TC. You got a new toy n play'n with it. Started off looking for Percy, and his sheep!

Thi is rather funny!!!!! Mind you I do admire the fact you fessed up to it! Good lad! Funny how the mind works and you totally ignore that while installing it. I have done worse!

Slow throttle Reduce ignition timing Boyesen reeds Read through these threads and do your homework, it is all there.

Condolences to the family. No idea what happened, yet I must say I find offense in your post. All motorsports can be dangerious, quit looking for blame here. Did you not read the entry sign? You could trip off the streetside curb, break a hip and get it by a car! God forbid, yet still. Nuff said.

To do what?

Charlie, I think all this a bit normal. Regardless of the front end, just set the static sag(weight of bike)on the rear to at or near zero. The front may drop a bit under the bikes own weight(inch or so)but just get the rear spring preload at somewhere at or near 0-10mm drop and no more preload on the spring. When you get to the EX class, we will need to find you a new spring! Even though you may really need a bit heavier spring for your weight, the supple rear will find good grip on anything you are likely to do, and be fine.

Any good 270 worth its salt is not going to be an easy kicker. Try bringing slowly to TDC first, just past the compression stage, then give it a good followthrough with the boot. If it runs normally, all is well!!

It looked to me as though TrialsUK has them in colours!

I have heard of this, ane either my '10 or 03 bike did it. Ryan sent me a kickstart gear under warranty at the time, sussed, and I never really seen the problem with it, has to do with clearances on the shaft or something. Best ring up MRS or Splatshop on this one, to see if they have any suggestions.

Think I have heard of Heavy Tubes, yet should all interchange on a "21 front I figure. I just run the standard Mich.

OK, Clive, I am in for TWO, one size L and the other in XXL. Is there a break in postage or just tell me You still got my address? You are in my automated check sender thing, but I cannot attach a message to it!

Ryan says that is all BS, steer with the pegs!

This does seem a bit odd, yet at the same time, I think some validity to it all. Thing put me with a beautiful hound in NZ!!! Doubt I could pay the post on that one!

Uh, I think we may need a visual on this, post a pic for us, please!

Stu, I'll just throw in M2C here, as no Gasser expert. Basically I think the sounds in the video are pretty normal as far as I can tell. Idle seems a bit high at that setting. Obviously it has a chipped kicker gear that needed attention, and a good search for metal bits that may include a good flushing of things. Having ridden some off new that sounded the same, not sure I would worry too much at this point. A throttle chop knock or ping can also be normal, as the engine goes into a sudden lean condition. Upping the primary jet may help this, depending upon what you are running. This happens with other bikes as well.

Hoggy, you state this is a pitbike, so I presume it one of them little honda copy motors of about 125-150cc? Pity about all this to do with a quick throttle opening bog, stalling and spitback on a 4T is basically a normal condition. A number of things come into play here, but larger carbs are one thing that seems to make this worse, it seems, even if the carb is clean and set.

Good stuff! A natural!

All good then, seems Andy fixed you, need to fix Kramit at some point!

And I am sure you would, indeed. Yet is seems that Johnny alone may not effect the original topic of the WTC, as that is not within the scope of the NATC. Although I really cannot get a grip on it, it seems to me it really takes a club ready and willing to devote a lot of work and possibly invest between 30-40 grand going in, and loose potentially half in returns. Need here is big sponsors with big advertizing dollars to play with. Then you gotta man sections, take another ton of hardcore volunteers. A lot of folk ain't driving out now, just to watch!

Possibly a bit warmer weather and engine temps thins the oil a bit as well, but, as stated, they rattle.

I have never attempted to weld the Mag. A bit of research seems to suggest thet the ER AZ92A is the filler rod of choise for most cast mag products. It also seems to have gone off quite expensive at over $100 per pound. Also, best I can tell, even though the 5356 rod does have a small MG content, it is basically used for 5000 series ali welding, and I found no compatability listings for use in the cast magnesium. This does bring in some compatability issues potentially if it were used previously, as far as corrosion goes. That is all I can find!

Yea, well, Clive goes back a long way on here, and sometimes he forgets things. TC encougages participation, and your input, take advantage of it and do it! Post up some pics or video links, as I am fairly sure you have some!